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Old 12-30-2017, 10:01 PM   #21
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 2013 EggCamper & 2011 Silverado Reg Cab 4x4
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I agree with Franswa. Just get a Noco charger, or a CTEK 7200 and call it a day! Wire up a 110v outlet or two, plug in the charger - done! Forget the converter. It sounds the smart charger is all you need - and much simpler than a converter!
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:38 AM   #22
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
first, when I said no grounding to frame (if you reread the post) I was only talking about the 12V side....the OP had 12V negative grounded to frame in his first diagram....
2015 Scamp has the brakes grounded (12 volts DC negative) to the trailer frame. I understand that it is a frequent point of failure as the connection corrodes over time.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:45 PM   #23
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Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
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good point gord...

that could be the case on my BF too...I guess....I'll have to check in the spring when I'm doing bearings......(I don't use the brakes, don't have a controller)

I do know that the all interior stuff and the trailer lights, on my BF, all have a neg return wire
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:07 PM   #24
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: Burro
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Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
the OP is in the automotive biz....I'm sure he knows there are some very good, super-smart chargers out there now...the double insulated ones don't need/have a fan (fan noise can get annoying)...and are designed to serve as a power supply with or without a battery in the circuit.....

the diagram shows only 4-5 lights !!! a three position fuse block would be plenty...

I have WAY more 12V appliances than that (furnace, pump, small inverter) and have been using a system like the one below for 3 years (no converter...no problem)....my charger is 7.2A

(and BTW, unlike cars, trailer manufacturers do NOT use the frame as neg. 12V ground....for the trailer lights or the interior lights/appliances....they use neg. ground return wires for everything...neg. wire for trailer lights goes to the trailer plug and that gets grounded to the tow vehicle frame)

anyway, this is just another option....ain't better, ain't worse....just different....some would say simpler
Thanks for all of the info in this thread. I really like the idea of sticking with 12v only and using this charger. I would like to incorporate vehicle charging into this system as well. Would there be any reason I can’t use the following and hook the vehicle feeds to the battery through this device?

WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK..._tyUYAbV6KKQQN
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