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Old 08-10-2016, 01:47 PM   #21
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FF is two years now also, except lifetime for the dome.
Perhaps not?

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tic-74750.html
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Old 08-10-2016, 02:29 PM   #22
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Perhaps yes... In fact, more than perhaps. The warranty is two years except lifetime for the dome. Period. (Effective January 1, 2013) If the company elects to go beyond the warranty then they can do that, but the warranty is still what it is.

I too have been pleased to see the company go above and beyond at times, but when I called today to get a few resisters to slow down what I think is a too fast and too loud fan - resisters they offered for free just a few months ago and which I would have paid for - I was pretty much blown off.
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:41 PM   #23
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Perhaps yes... In fact, more than perhaps. The warranty is two years except lifetime for the dome. Period. (Effective January 1, 2013) If the company elects to go beyond the warranty then they can do that, but the warranty is still what it is.

I too have been pleased to see the company go above and beyond at times, but when I called today to get a few resisters to slow down what I think is a too fast and too loud fan - resisters they offered for free just a few months ago and which I would have paid for - I was pretty much blown off.
Perhaps the other folks got lucky?? The did talk to a tech.

Technically resistors (voltage drop) is a lousy way to slow a motor. If the voltage gets too low, the motor stalls. PWM is the best way. I was going see if I can get rid of the resistors this winter. If I come up with a solution I'll post. Raz
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:52 PM   #24
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Perhaps the other folks got lucky?? The did talk to a tech.

Technically resistors (voltage drop) is a lousy way to slow a motor. If the voltage gets too low, the motor stalls. PWM is the best way. I was going see if I can get rid of the resistors this winter. If I come up with a solution I'll post. Raz
Sounds good.. I have seen a number of people put in PWM boards in the past, as well as a few putting in beefy rheostats. I would like to see what you come up. Ebay seems to be a popular source but since I took my fan apart to clean it and left it that way thinking I could get the resisters, I really don't want to wait on a slow boat from China to put it back together.

A few threads that include PWM mods:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tor-64815.html
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ion-64359.html
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:42 AM   #25
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Just starting to look into this now and I think I want to remove the OEM 3 speed switch by disconnecting the wires shown in the arrows in this photo. That way it could be put back in original condition easy enough.

The fan has a 4 amp fuse (~55 watts) but I don't see a rating for what the max current of the fan alone would be.

Then, find a speed controller that I can fit in this space with the potentiometer shaft coming out through the existing hole for the 3 speed switch.

Any suggestions for the controller will be appreciated.
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:36 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Just starting to look into this now and I think I want to remove the OEM 3 speed switch by disconnecting the wires shown in the arrows in this photo. That way it could be put back in original condition easy enough.

The fan has a 4 amp fuse (~55 watts) but I don't see a rating for what the max current of the fan alone would be.

Then, find a speed controller that I can fit in this space with the potentiometer shaft coming out through the existing hole for the 3 speed switch.

Any suggestions for the controller will be appreciated.
If you look on the side of the fan motor, you will find the amp rating. I think my FF read 2.7, but it's best to check.

As to recommendations on PWM controllers, find one that lists the frequency. My first one was listed at 500 Hz, which is in the low end of human hearing. At some speeds it was distinctly audible, and could be irritating. I don't know if you can find one above 20K Hz, but I would get one that was at least 10K if possible. There are several on Amazon in the 13-15 Khz range.

Most controllers are single board units and should fit in the same place as the switch, but you may want to check the space you have versus the specs. You may be able to use one with the board mounted pot, which would simplify mounting. Mine had the wired pot so I hot glued the unit in the fan, placing the heat sinks as close to the ventilation hole as possible.

Also, go with one with the screw down wire terminal strip for more secure connections.

Good luck. Have fun.
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:35 PM   #27
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If you look on the side of the fan motor, you will find the amp rating. I think my FF read 2.7, but it's best to check. ..
Well I looked when I had the blade off but didn't see anything. 2.7 amps sounds like ballpark for sure.

The first few controllers I found were too large to fit in the fan assembly, and besides, they were from China or Hong Kong, so even though the price was right I would prefer to buy from a supplier who is more likely to use quality components. Maybe Digi-Key.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:25 PM   #28
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Well I looked when I had the blade off but didn't see anything. 2.7 amps sounds like ballpark for sure.

The first few controllers I found were too large to fit in the fan assembly, and besides, they were from China or Hong Kong, so even though the price was right I would prefer to buy from a supplier who is more likely to use quality components. Maybe Digi-Key.

You may try DigiKey. Good folks. Marlin P Jones may be another source. As a built unit, those will likely be Chinese too. Mine certainly is, but it works fine and the construction quality looks first rate In case of failure, I carry the original resistor unit and the first PWM I bought.

Do remember, there is Chinese and there is Chinese. To satisfy the mainland government, for some years marking something as, 'Made in Taiwan' or 'Made in Hong Kong' is no longer allowed. I would much prefer to buy 'Made in the US'. Finding it is the trick.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:00 PM   #29
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I would much prefer to buy 'Made in the US'. Finding it is the trick.
You'll find lots of "Made in the USA' paperwork, and software.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:18 PM   #30
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I added two resistors to my FF to lower the noise and speed. Worked well. Then I got to thinking. The resistors made lots of heat and didn't save my battery. So I bought a PWM speed controller on Amazon ($4.00) and now i have variable speed, less noise and less battery draw. Win/win/win.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:13 AM   #31
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On the topic of Fantastic Fan vs. Maxxair: I have had a FF in my van for years with no problem. I have a Maxxair in my Bigfoot. I love the many speeds of the Maxxair but have had to deal with problems.

1) If the lid is not cranked up all the way it rattles in the wind.


2) After 5 years I replaced the printed circuit board, which failed due to corrosion, for $70+. I expect to replace it again some day as it is not adequately protected from the weather.


3) The design does not keep out mosquitoes. Tabs that holds the removable screen have gaps large enough that mosquitoes get through. The gap between the garnish and the face plate may also allow ingress. To solve the problem I installed removable no-see-um mesh to the garnish using Velcro on the garnish and on the mesh. I apply the no-see-um mesh when necessary. The fan works harder to move air but the bugs do not get in.


4) With the lid raised, during a downpour rain bounces off of the roof and into the fan. A steady mist enters the trailer.


5) The unit does not vent well without the fan blowing.


Despite the shortcomings I would buy the Maxxair again. I like the low profile when the lid is closed. For the FF to be open in the rain requires a high-profile vent cover. Rain may blow through the louvres on those covers when the wind is blowing from behind the trailer. The Maxxair under-lid area, prone to mold, is easy to clean by unhooking the raising mechanism, though you do need to be on the roof to do it.
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:46 AM   #32
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Good comparison write up....Tim.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:15 AM   #33
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problems with your maxxair fan...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim D. View Post
On the topic of Fantastic Fan vs. Maxxair: I have had a FF in my van for years with no problem. I have a Maxxair in my Bigfoot. I love the many speeds of the Maxxair but have had to deal with problems.

1) If the lid is not cranked up all the way it rattles in the wind.


2) After 5 years I replaced the printed circuit board, which failed due to corrosion, for $70+. I expect to replace it again some day as it is not adequately protected from the weather.


3) The design does not keep out mosquitoes. Tabs that holds the removable screen have gaps large enough that mosquitoes get through. The gap between the garnish and the face plate may also allow ingress. To solve the problem I installed removable no-see-um mesh to the garnish using Velcro on the garnish and on the mesh. I apply the no-see-um mesh when necessary. The fan works harder to move air but the bugs do not get in.


4) With the lid raised, during a downpour rain bounces off of the roof and into the fan. A steady mist enters the trailer.


5) The unit does not vent well without the fan blowing.


Despite the shortcomings I would buy the Maxxair again. I like the low profile when the lid is closed. For the FF to be open in the rain requires a high-profile vent cover. Rain may blow through the louvres on those covers when the wind is blowing from behind the trailer. The Maxxair under-lid area, prone to mold, is easy to clean by unhooking the raising mechanism, though you do need to be on the roof to do it.
So very sorry you've had these difficulties with your fan, but thank you, for explaining it all so well. Just curious...is your fan installed on the roof, on the wall...where? Thanks again!
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:55 PM   #34
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Thanks, Harley.

DonnaMarie, the Maxxair is installed on the roof in the main cabin. The problems it has are not dealbreakers for me. As I said, I would buy the fan again.

One way or another I need to be able to open vents in the rain. My windows are sliders that let in the rain. Sometimes I can get away with opening them on the lee side, but then I must monitor wind direction.

My 9" bathroom vent has a standard plastic high-profile vent cover. I must monitor the wind direction when I leave that vent open during rain, as wind coming from behind the trailer will blow water through the vent cover louvres. That is the reason I stick with the Maxxair. Rain causing a mist to come in through the Maxxair only occurs during heavy, heavy rain.

I have lots of watts in solar panels so I do not mind that I must run the fan to achieve adequate ventilation.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:11 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Tim D. View Post
On the topic of Fantastic Fan vs. Maxxair: I have had a FF in my van for years with no problem. I have a Maxxair in my Bigfoot. I love the many speeds of the Maxxair but have had to deal with problems.

1) If the lid is not cranked up all the way it rattles in the wind.
On mine, if you push up ( or pull down - can't remember ) on the knob used to open the vent, it locks in place and won't be bouncing up and down while traveling.
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Old 08-19-2016, 03:19 AM   #36
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your maxxair fan..

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Originally Posted by Tim D. View Post
Thanks, Harley.

DonnaMarie, the Maxxair is installed on the roof in the main cabin. The problems it has are not dealbreakers for me. As I said, I would buy the fan again.

One way or another I need to be able to open vents in the rain. My windows are sliders that let in the rain. Sometimes I can get away with opening them on the lee side, but then I must monitor wind direction.

My 9" bathroom vent has a standard plastic high-profile vent cover. I must monitor the wind direction when I leave that vent open during rain, as wind coming from behind the trailer will blow water through the vent cover louvres. That is the reason I stick with the Maxxair. Rain causing a mist to come in through the Maxxair only occurs during heavy, heavy rain.

I have lots of watts in solar panels so I do not mind that I must run the fan to achieve adequate ventilation.
Thank you for the clarity Tim!
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:41 AM   #37
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Glenn, locking the raising knob does lock the lid in terms of raising and lowering. At least on mine it does not stop the rattle. I contacted Maxxair, before the company was sold to Coleman. Customer support acknowledged the problem. Their solution: raise the lid to maximum height.
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:32 AM   #38
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Maxxair models

This thread has comments about "the" Maxxair and "the" Fantastic. I just spent three hours wading through the specs for dozens of models for both. There are some pretty drastic differences. Here is a table for the Maxxair models: http://www.old.maxxair.com/oem/search2.php and Fantastic: Fan-Tastic Vent's Retail 12 Volt Fans
Also bear in mind that both of these companies have old models and new models, many of which are similar in some respects, but have totally different model naiming systems.
(BTW, I settled on the Maxxair 6201K.)
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Old 04-20-2017, 11:05 AM   #39
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Should have gone with the 7500K, remote is nice to have by the bed and with the smoke lens lets more moon and natural light in.
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Old 04-20-2017, 12:47 PM   #40
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I like the maxxair and if I thought it was a better choice you can bet Eggy-Sue would have one.
My trailer came with a Fantastic Fan with a lifetime warranty. It has worked perfectly for 13 years now. I see nothing in the Maxxair to justify the change. With the addition of the vent cover and the window louvers, it works perfectly in hard rain and windy conditions.
Below is a photo which shows the type of vent cover which allows full opening of the vent and prevents even wind blown rain from entering.
As for profile it blends well with the low profile Mini-Mach A/C.
The widow louvers work well to keep the rain out on my sliders and add an attractive touch of style.
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