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03-12-2018, 12:03 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,176
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Fantastic fan power supply?
I'm going to install a Fantastic fan in our boler but at this point we don't a 12 volt power supply in the trailer. So that requires a battery, converter/ inverter (which ever is the correct term) wiring etc. I was wondering if anyone has used one of those small chargers that plkug into 110ac and output DC?
This would simplify things for us as the boler is in an rv park plugged in 99% of the time.
Fred
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03-12-2018, 12:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
Posts: 281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES
I'm going to install a Fantastic fan in our boler but at this point we don't a 12 volt power supply in the trailer. So that requires a battery, converter/ inverter (which ever is the correct term) wiring etc. I was wondering if anyone has used one of those small chargers that plkug into 110ac and output DC?
This would simplify things for us as the boler is in an rv park plugged in 99% of the time.
Fred
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That would work, would need to be a fairly robust 120v-12v converter, the fantastic fan draws 3 amps on high, so you would want at least a 4+ amp power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Power-S...p+power+supply
or
https://www.amazon.com/QUANS-Univers...g+power+supply
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03-12-2018, 12:31 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gompka
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Thanks!! That appears to be right down my electronics ability alley,,, lol
Fred
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03-12-2018, 02:00 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
Posts: 383
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My old converter fried my old battery. I bought a 4stage converter charger to replace it. 35 amp power max from Amazon.ca for $166. A genious charger would easily cost as much but it is not meant to run a trailers power.
http://www.adventurerv.net/powermax-...5-p-34065.html
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03-14-2018, 08:47 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES
I'm going to install a Fantastic fan in our boler but at this point we don't a 12 volt power supply in the trailer. So that requires a battery, converter/ inverter (which ever is the correct term) wiring etc. I was wondering if anyone has used one of those small chargers that plkug into 110ac and output DC?
This would simplify things for us as the boler is in an rv park plugged in 99% of the time.
Fred
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I have my power plug going to a breaker panel and then one of the breakers supplying power to a plug where I have a battery charger plugged in. I then have the charger hooked to the battery and a line coming from the battery to a 12V fuse box. All my 12V applications then are wired to that box. All of this is instead of a converter.
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03-14-2018, 02:46 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,046
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If you are not going to be running a lot of 12 volt equipment then you might not want to get an inverter. Instead you could obtain a dedicated power brick just for the fan that changes 110v to 12v. Look for one that outputs 12 volts at 40 or slightly higher watts. Then splice it to the wires coming from your Fantastic fan thereby creating a dedicated wall plug for it.
You can buy them new from Amazon or Ebay. But for a lower cost go used. Goodwill stores have bins full of misc power bricks that have been separated from their original components. Just right down the specs of what you need before you go shopping there. The typical price they put on them is around $3.00. I head there first when I am looking for a power supply for my various kinds of projects if I don't already have one in my box of power supplies I have saved from old equipment that no longer works.
I just looked through my box of spares power supplies and realized I have several 110 power bricks on hand that could power a Fantastic Fan (Endless Breeze). Since I don't have a roof vent I need the stand alone Endless Breeze so it would be nice to have the option of using it on 110v or 12v. I might want to use the power brick in locations on a 110 outlet other than in the travel trailer. Therefore instead of a splice I would put a 12v two pin plug SAE Quick Release plug on the wires coming out of the fan and put an SAE plug end on the 12volt output side of the power brick. I would also create a power cord with an SAE plug on one end and a cigarette lighter style of plug at the other end that can go into my trailers 12v house wiring system.
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03-14-2018, 05:11 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES
I'm going to install a Fantastic fan in our boler but at this point we don't a 12 volt power supply in the trailer. So that requires a battery, converter/ inverter (which ever is the correct term) wiring etc. I was wondering if anyone has used one of those small chargers that plkug into 110ac and output DC?
This would simplify things for us as the boler is in an rv park plugged in 99% of the time.
Fred
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what are you using for interior lighting now? 120V lamps? battery powered lanterns?
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03-14-2018, 05:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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btw, MaxxFans are nicer than Fantastic Fans. they are quieter and can move more air. I'd suggest the 00-05100K (white) or 00-06200K (smoke), with the 10 speed motor and thermostat. These will need a 5A (60W) power supply, but only draw like 0.2 watts on very low speed. they also have models that will auto-open the hood, with remote controls, so you don't have to get out of bed to adjust it, but those cost more
oh, and the hood on these are rainproof even when open.
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03-14-2018, 05:56 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
btw, MaxxFans are nicer than Fantastic Fans. they are quieter and can move more air. I'd suggest the 00-05100K (white) or 00-06200K (smoke), with the 10 speed motor and thermostat. These will need a 5A (60W) power supply, but only draw like 0.2 watts on very low speed. they also have models that will auto-open the hood, with remote controls, so you don't have to get out of bed to adjust it, but those cost more
oh, and the hood on these are rainproof even when open.
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Good points.. and the power draw is one reason I modded my fantastic fan with an infinitely variable PWM speed controller. And I also installed a rain cover . So nice to get a fan with all this built in! Although I would forgo the remote control since its basically another potential failure point and the fan controls are in easy reach anyway.
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03-14-2018, 09:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
what are you using for interior lighting now? 120V lamps? battery powered lanterns?
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LEDs plugged into 110.
I have zero 12 volt in trailer.
The max fans are like double the money, I just want a fan not a helicopter.
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03-14-2018, 11:40 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES
LEDs plugged into 110.
I have zero 12 volt in trailer.
The max fans are like double the money, I just want a fan not a helicopter.
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thats the thing, the fantastic fan even on the lowest setting is still quite audible. we have one in our Casita.... its really not that fantastic.
the maxxfan is whisper quiet several clicks above the slowest speeds, and moves more air in our out while doing it. and the hood that lets you ventilate during rain without water getting in? priceless.
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03-15-2018, 02:22 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
thats the thing, the fantastic fan even on the lowest setting is still quite audible. we have one in our Casita.... its really not that fantastic.
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Always have to chuckle with the comments of fans and such being a bit loud....guess there is a silver lining with being somewhat hard of hearing, it's quite to me .
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03-15-2018, 02:46 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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ah, heh. kinda hope that never comes to me, I love listening to live music, the more intricate, the better.
sometimes its jazz...
sometimes its string pickin' music...
and sometimes its a bit more rock.
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03-15-2018, 02:52 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
thats the thing, the fantastic fan even on the lowest setting is still quite audible. we have one in our Casita.... its really not that fantastic.
the maxxfan is whisper quiet several clicks above the slowest speeds, and moves more air in our out while doing it. and the hood that lets you ventilate during rain without water getting in? priceless.
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I'm not interested in your recommendation of which fan is is better.
My thread is asking the question on how to power it given my situation.
Fred
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03-15-2018, 04:32 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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When my Max fan failed I replaced it with a fantastic fan. The motor support is better. Any 12 volt 5 amp power supply like the one recommended earlier will work. Be aware that all these supplies are switching supplies which means they will produce electrical noise that might interfere with your entertainment devices. If that happens try rerouting the wires.
We also have an O2 cool fan that hangs in a window. Fifteen bucks at Walmart. Comes with it's own power supply (wall wart). It won't move the air like a fantastic fan will but it works well. With no AC , it provides a breeze on a warm night. Ours is the 10".
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08-15-2022, 02:20 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 2004 Casita Freedom
California
Posts: 11
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Looking for replacement for reversible polarity switch for Fantastic Fan
Original says “Carling 0416”. Can’t find that particular part number. It has 4 blade connectors and a “rocker” switch
ON (air intake) - OFF (resting) - ON (air exhaust).
Haven’t found it or a clone brand on Amazon.
Dometic’s site isn’t showing it either.
Any suggestions?
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08-15-2022, 02:24 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
Posts: 281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycancamp
Original says “Carling 0416”. Can’t find that particular part number. It has 4 blade connectors and a “rocker” switch
ON (air intake) - OFF (resting) - ON (air exhaust).
Haven’t found it or a clone brand on Amazon.
Dometic’s site isn’t showing it either.
Any suggestions?
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You just need a polarity reversing switch, something like this, but double check the physical size as I'm not near my scamp. amazon switch
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08-15-2022, 02:29 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 2004 Casita Freedom
California
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gompka
You just need a polarity reversing switch, something like this, but double check the physical size as I'm not near my scamp. amazon switch
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I know all that, but I’m saying I can’t find one on the sites I mentioned.
Where have you found this particular switch? There’s no more Radio Shack or Fry’s Electronics to physically check out.
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08-15-2022, 02:34 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
Posts: 281
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Amazon will be your best bet, they usually list the hole dimensions of the switch, but even if they don't most sellers will measure it if you ask. It should be a fairly common switch size, maybe the text won't be the same, but that doesn't really matter.
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08-15-2022, 02:57 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
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you can use any DPDT (double pole double throw) switch with a center OFF position thats of a suitable physical size, and current rating (20A at 12VDC would be plenty sufficient).
wire it like this...
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