Fiberglass over cracked escape vent lid - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-19-2021, 04:46 AM   #1
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Name: Joshua
Trailer: Scamp
NY
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Fiberglass over cracked escape vent lid

Hi all,

My 87 Scamp 13í has an older style escape hatch with the piano hinge instead of the c channel that is on the scamp website. Unfortunately, I didnít realize this until after the replacement part arrived. Luckily I can return the old one. I am hesitant to take on the project of removing the entire assembly and installing a new one at this time.

Would laying some fiberglass over the lid work? Will it adhere to the plastic? What kind of fiberglass do I use for such a project? I would obviously only be putting fiberglass on the lid itself to still be able to open it and get airflow in the the scamp.

Am I making this more difficult for myself and should I just suck it up and change out the whole unit?
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Old 08-19-2021, 06:10 AM   #2
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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Try putting Flextape or similar product over the crack rather than fiberglass. I don't believe fiberglass would adhere properly to the plastic even if you rough up the surface. Just make sure to thoroughly clean the area. I used packing tape on my cracked vent lid and it lasted until I replaced it (2 years).
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Old 08-19-2021, 07:28 AM   #3
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Ya forget about fiberglass on plastic.
Id probably tape it up with something for the rest of the camping season then "suck it up" and change it.
Fred
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Old 08-19-2021, 09:02 AM   #4
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Name: Jeff
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Try it!

I bought a fibreglas kit at an auto parts store. My lchipper/shredder had a broken exit chute in 5 pieces and it worked fine. I used JB Weld epoxy (because I had it on hand). Brushed the JB onto the surface.
applied the fibreglas and coated it with JB. Since I could reach inside the chute I also applied the same to the inside. Cheap fix but it's been fine for three years.
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Old 08-20-2021, 05:24 PM   #5
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Trailer: 2001 13 ft Scamp / 1993 Jeep Cherokee
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Exit vent lid cracked

Mine got hit by a tree limb, right through it this past Spring. First actual problem with my 2001 Scamp 13. It's 21 this Christmas, we are having a party.

All that being said, I taped it with Gorilla tape. Had minor leak I couldn't find but after this summers heat the glue must have seated better because no further leaks.

I am headed to the factory soon and was going to have them put a new lid on. We will see if they can because mine too has a piano hinge.
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Old 08-20-2021, 07:22 PM   #6
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Name: John
Trailer: Scamp 1995 19'
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEVanHorn View Post
Hi all,

My 87 Scamp 13í has an older style escape hatch with the piano hinge instead of the c channel that is on the scamp website. Unfortunately, I didnít realize this until after the replacement part arrived. Luckily I can return the old one. I am hesitant to take on the project of removing the entire assembly and installing a new one at this time....

Uh ohhhh.... Mine just broke and I ordered TWO of the new plastic ones, not the entire assembly
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:55 PM   #7
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Name: Pat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtzinpa View Post
I bought a fibreglas kit at an auto parts store. My lchipper/shredder had a broken exit chute in 5 pieces and it worked fine. I used JB Weld epoxy (because I had it on hand). Brushed the JB onto the surface.
applied the fibreglas and coated it with JB. Since I could reach inside the chute I also applied the same to the inside. Cheap fix but it's been fine for three years.
You didn't fiberglass it, you JB welded it by glueing fiberglass to it. JB Weld is fantastic stuff. I used it to repair a water well pump that was cracked from being frozen. It would not hold prime. Saved a plumbing bill and the cost of a new well pump!!! That pump went on pumping for years.
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Old 08-22-2021, 12:11 AM   #8
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Name: Elliott
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Fiberglass will probably work, but maybe not well and it's a lot of hassle. I'd say there's 3 feasible fixes:

Plastic-weld the lid. It's probably polycarbonate, but maybe the manufacturer says somewhere or will tell you. A bit tricky to do well in practice, but it'll seal well once done.

JB-weld or similar reinforced epoxy. Should stick well enough and hold. At least as well as fiberglass with a lot less difficulty.

High-sealing tape. Regular duct tape might work, but I'd lean more towards either something rubbery/soft like flextape, or something really strong like Eternabond.

Either way, like Alex said, prep is key. Get it cleaned off, then give it a wipe with acetone or isopropyl alcohol.
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