Filling stripped holes and re-drilling?

[ZachO]

I’m sure there’s an obvious solution.



I just replaced the piano hinge on my front window guard, and one of the latches has stripped screw holes. These holes line up with the hole in the rock guard, and are nicely symmetrical, so I’d like to keep them where they are.

What product can I use to fill them, then drill and use them again? I’ve tried the idea of stuffing match sticks or something in oversize holes and I don’t prefer it...

Thanks.

[Nicolas]

If the awning is fibreglass, mix an epoxy (five minute) and fill the holes, cure and redrill. Another solution would be to use T-nuts with the gripping teeth flattened and the existing holes drilled out to accommodate.

[Kenny Strong]

what is behind the glass face ?

[Raz]

When I had to reset the hinges on my Trillium, I used an epoxy paste called PC 11 and injected it into the holes. Worked well. Holes that go all the way through need to be backed. I used scrap sheet metal.

[ZachO]

Alright, thanks!

Behind the fiberglass there's wood, which is great for good holding strength. Until it gets stripped...

These got stripped because the piano hinge had been failing for years, so the rock guard was sagging, resting more and more heavily on the latch, finally pushing it down and forcing the screws out.

Raz I'm guessing that syringe didn't come with the epoxy? I'll see what the local hardware store has.

[Kenny Strong]

Use Raz's idea. then Nicolas's t nuts with the barbs into your existing wood backer.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by ZachO

Alright, thanks!

Raz I'm guessing that syringe didn't come with the epoxy? I'll see what the local hardware store has.

No, the syringe was seperate but the hardware store should have them. Woodworkers use them for glue.

[ZachO]

Alright, thanks.

Hardware store is closed till Tuesday. I was hoping to do it today so it had time to cure before the cold front and rain/snow moves in, but it looks like I'll have to wait until after!

[Raz]

I thought the screws were held by the fiberglass. That was the case with my door. If the wood is what really holds the screws then if you have acess to the back, I would use bolts with a washer between the nut and the wood. If no access, I would drill the holes out and fill with a glued dowel. Be aware, many hardware store dowels are metric.

[thrifty bill]

Its all about what is behind the fiberglass. Chances are, the screws are not threaded into the fiberglass, they are threaded into whatever is under it (likely wood). Rotten wood is usually the culprit. Patching the fiberglass alone is not the solution.

[ZachO]

Yeah there's wood just behind the fiberglass. I don't have easy access to it from the inside, though. It would require taking the interior walls out. I don't have a completely clear picture of how Bigfoot constructed these, but there's a lot of wood. I don't think there's a full sheet of plywood behind all the fiberglass, completely boxing in the trailer, but there's a lot of wood framing all the windows, door etc. The screws for that latch are a couple inches long.

There may be some rotted wood, but it's the sagging rock guard that caused this issue. Probably as it enlarged those screws holes with all the pressure, some water started getting in there. But the latch on the other side is solid. Maybe dowels are the way to go.

I don't see t-nuts working here, since I'd like to keep the latch flush to the fiberglass, but they are exactly what I need for my upper fridge vent. Almost every one of those holes is stripped, and it's unfortunately an area I need to access fairly often, so they're only getting worse. Screws directly in wood aren't set up for repeated removal, so dowels wouldn't be great there. A metal threaded insert is perfect. But yes, for this latch, which hopefully I never need to remove again, dowels will be great.

[Raz]

There are some who would fill the holes with epoxy and thread the screws in and let the epoxy cure. The problem is if you ever have to remove those screws in the future you could end up with stripper heads, broken screws, ect. That's why I suggested the dowels. A glued dowel is as strong if not stronger than the original wood and if you use the correct size pilot holes, the screws will go in easy, and if the need be, come back out easy. And if the problem repeats, the dowels can easily be drilled out and replaced. Ever try to drill out a broken screw in wood?

[ZachO]

I don't think I have. I've tried to dill out broken bolts in metal, but not a screw in wood. It doesn't sound like fun, or like it would even work without a lot damage to the wood around it...

No, I was going to inject epoxy and let it cure, then drill, like you had initially recommended. But I think the dowel idea is even better for this.

[Glenn Baglo]

Take a look at Git-Rot as an alternative.

[Raz]

My trillium and I suspect other trailers use plywood spacers around the windows which unfortunately eventually rot. If thats the case here then there is no permanent fix without replacing plywood. If you think your wood is rotting then Glenn's suggestion could be a good temporary fix until some future date when you've got the time. Like when Covid 23 arrives.


https://www.boatlife.com/news/how-to...o-use-git-rot/

[Kenny Strong]

I like the threaded insert you talked about. If a threaded insert has a screw with a nut stopping it from turning into the insert is turned into the hole with the glue already placed in the opening it can set up in the glue. the screw and the stop nut can be waxed to keep the glue from adhering to the screw threads.
put a wrench on the stop nut to brake the bond, unscrew the screw.

[CASITA BANANA]

White JBWeld has worked for me in the past.

[Nicolas]

Ahhh! Kenny B beat me to the waxed bolt suggestion. This is suggested for implanting bolts into fibreglass and epoxied holes in wood. Jus make sure that you wax and then lightly twist the wax into the threads. Did this by mistake with a thick layer of wax and the bolt was too loose afterward.

[Galoolie]

Originally Posted by Raz

There are some who would fill the holes with epoxy and thread the screws in and let the epoxy cure. The problem is if you ever have to remove those screws in the future you could end up with stripper heads, broken screws, ect. That's why I suggested the dowels. A glued dowel is as strong if not stronger than the original wood and if you use the correct size pilot holes, the screws will go in easy, and if the need be, come back out easy. And if the problem repeats, the dowels can easily be drilled out and replaced. Ever try to drill out a broken screw in wood?

Agree with your method. Ive done this many time restoring old houses with stripped door/cabinet hinge screws . Sometimes ill pilot out the hole to match the dowel.

[Drtriumph]

For my front window cover I replaced all the screws with rivnuts and bolts. A much more secure mount.