First rain and leaks, 1983 Scamp. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:29 PM   #1
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Name: Francis
Trailer: 13' Scamp, soon 2019 17' Casita
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First rain and leaks, 1983 Scamp.

Greetings

Three are minor leaks from rivets and I am sure I can fix those.
However the skylight is my main issue right now. Have included some pictures, the roof has a bit of sag in the front part of the skylight so water is gathering.

What are the opinions on the fix for the water and if possible is there a fix to help the roof not sag? I am thinking for the water leaks I would have to remove the entire skylight and seal?

Thanks for you help.

Fran & Michele
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:16 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum.

When windows or roof vents leak, it's common for folks to caulk the edges. If it works at all, the fix is only temporary. Worse, folks use a silicon based caulk which is very difficult to remove from fiberglass.

For a good seal, remove the vent, clean the area, and reinstall the vent using butyl tape. As you tighten the vent, the butyl will ooze out. A few days later when the oozing stops it can be trimmed with a putty knife. Butyl tape can be obtained at an RV store. I also have found it at a building supply store for use sealing metal roofing.

Last summer I used butyl tape to install a new fantastic fan. I then used a non silicon based caulk (lexel) around the edge to keep the butyl clean as it tends to attract dirt. Numerous hard rains and the ocassional washing. No leaks. Good luck with your project. Raz
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:32 AM   #3
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Plastic Frame Escape Hatch

If you have a 83 Scamp you more than likely have a plastic frame escape hatch. The plastic frame will develop stress cracks and the frames will leak and the leak source is hard to find. You have to inspect for the cracks on the outside since the trim on the inside is difficult to remove and reinstall.
The newer scamp metal frame escape hatches are larger and provide more support for your roof. Since it larger your hole will need to be expanded. The good news is you will cut out all the old rivet holes and you will end up with a like new clean install. Also replacement lids are easier to find.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:02 AM   #4
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Thank you, had a feeling :-)


Well that is good news about the newer vent.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:29 AM   #5
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fran, do you have the metal support that goes from the sink to the roof? some people think it's just for looks & remove it, causing sagging & door issues. just a thought...
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:04 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by sharon_b View Post
fran, do you have the metal support that goes from the sink to the roof? some people think it's just for looks & remove it, causing sagging & door issues. just a thought...

We do, thank you. That was one of the great many things we learned before buying an egg.
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:45 PM   #7
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Leaking roofs

Has anyone other than I considered gluing a sheet of EPDM roof covering over the roof to stop those pesty rivet leaks ??
I did that on my "home-brew" Tear Drop camper -- What a great roof solution it turned out to be. A sheet of "RoofTite" 10X20 is only $100, and a gallon of cement is between $30 to $70.
But -- how to get onto the roof to install it ??
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:05 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rdwatson View Post
Has anyone other than I considered gluing a sheet of EPDM roof covering over the roof to stop those pesty rivet leaks ??
I did that on my "home-brew" Tear Drop camper -- What a great roof solution it turned out to be. A sheet of "RoofTite" 10X20 is only $100, and a gallon of cement is between $30 to $70.
But -- how to get onto the roof to install it ??
The next owners removal thread would certainly be interesting.. Colorful too!
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdwatson View Post
Has anyone other than I considered gluing a sheet of EPDM roof covering over the roof to stop those pesty rivet leaks ??
I did that on my "home-brew" Tear Drop camper -- What a great roof solution it turned out to be. A sheet of "RoofTite" 10X20 is only $100, and a gallon of cement is between $30 to $70.
But -- how to get onto the roof to install it ??
Well as long as the gallon of cement isn't silly con based.... what harm could it do?

standing water can be a beast, things that will keep all water out by shedding even a driving rain can leak if water can't run off.

Rivet leaks are not really that hard to stop. Worse case get some liquid electrical tape and a tiny model / craft paint brush. Seal from a drop or two of that liquid wire sealant should last a year or two easy. Dries hard enough to pick off with a finger nail but otherwise stays on well.

If rivet snap caps are on the rivets then a thin piece of butyl caulk under the cap base takes care of most issues, and can be easily added when replacing the rivet.

Butyl tape works well, comes off easily even after years when it is time to replace it. I have had some leaks but none I could trace back to a specific rivet (so far). Windows, a bubble in a fiberglass seam, where the wires came in from after market tail lights, door seal, and lord alone knows what else but rivets not really at least not since I installed the snap caps.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdwatson View Post
Has anyone other than I considered gluing a sheet of EPDM roof covering over the roof to stop those pesty rivet leaks ??
I did that on my "home-brew" Tear Drop camper -- What a great roof solution it turned out to be. A sheet of "RoofTite" 10X20 is only $100, and a gallon of cement is between $30 to $70.
But -- how to get onto the roof to install it ??
I think this is a case where the cure is worse than the disease.

We're talking here about a very old trailer and relatively minor issues. Replacing a few rivets is routine maintenance. Replacing a roof vent is not exactly routine, but hardly constitutes major surgery. The trailer will then be as good as new, roof-wise, and, barring abuse or mishap, ready for another 30 years of service.

I wish I were in as good condition!

The new roof vent may be all it takes to straighten out the low spot. Even if not, water should not get past a correctly sealed vent.

If you want to do a bit more, I have seen where people glass in a raised lip around the vent opening. You could level out the low spot at the same time. You lose the original gelcoat finish (what's left of it anyway), but it wouldn't be too noticeable on the roof.

That solution would probably outlast the owner!
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:18 AM   #11
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We had the same vent leak issue on our old Scamp. On our maiden voyage we used a trash bag (like your plastic in the pic) to direct water into a trash can. What a drag! We had similar set up on on our vent, tons of caulk and things the previous owner tried that didn't work. We removed the vent, scraped off all the old crap, cleaned the area, and reset the vent with butyl and stainless steel screws. Has not leaked since. It took us a full day to do it, but well worth it!
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