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05-02-2022, 07:51 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Fixing a Sagging Scamp Roof
My Scamp has a sagging roof near the middle of the arch. I would like your opinion on two different ways I am considering to fix it:
1. Reinforce the bottom by bolting on three or four 1" aluminum tubes, running from front to back, that I have pre-bent using my tubing bender, matching the arc.
2. Gluing (using epoxy) a sheet of FRP down the middle, either on the outside or inside. FRP is that sheet fiberglass material with the pebble finish that is used in cheap shower installations. The smooth surface would be oriented to be visible. Installing it on the outside would allow the elephant hide inside to remain intact.
Both methods would be accompanied by a supporting pole lifting the roof until installation is complete.
Any opinions, or better ideas?
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05-02-2022, 08:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,866
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There was this post....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank R
My Scamp has a sagging roof near the middle of the arch. I would like your opinion on two different ways I am considering to fix it:Any opinions, or better ideas?
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https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...oof-97117.html
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05-03-2022, 07:09 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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My 40 year Boler 17 has a dip in the center of the roof so that it pools water. I plan to jack up the roof and either:
- add two layers of 1708 fiberglass material (with epoxy or polyester resin) to the roof (and finish with fairing compound), or
- peel back the ensolite on the ceiling and apply one or two layers of 1708 fiberglass material and maybe 1/2" plywood (?) to the ceiling
Youtuber BoatworksToday did the former on the very bouncy/spongy deck of his small boat resulting in a very rigid deck.
EDIT: If I go with option 1, I will grind off some of the gelcoat before laying the 1708 material.
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05-03-2022, 07:17 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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more info on 1708 fiberglass reinforcement
Here is the BoatworksToday thread on applying 1708 to stiffen the deck:
Also see post #8 of Steve Hague's thread where he reinforced the roof with 1708:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post818973
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05-03-2022, 07:46 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,175
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I often wonder if the walls are spreading due to lack of support structures drawing the roof down?
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05-03-2022, 10:29 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan
- add two layers of 1708 fiberglass material (with epoxy or polyester resin) to the roof (and finish with fairing compound), or
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My second option is basically the same thing but less work. The FRP is fiberglass reinforced plastic.
Filon is a similar option. But I can get FRP at my local Home Depot.
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05-03-2022, 11:47 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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The only thing I would sugest is some cross members on the outside of the roof from one side to the other. I would use 1" square tube pultruded fibreglass, but fibreglass the ends closed.
https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/S...-FT/p/WWG4ATN8
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05-03-2022, 11:54 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES
I often wonder if the walls are spreading due to lack of support structures drawing the roof down?
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I would guess No to this. It looks like a point load from snow.
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05-03-2022, 12:12 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
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I think this would look okay if it was disguised as a roof rack.
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05-03-2022, 12:16 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan
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Wow... seven layers of fiberglass. Well, he did say it was overkill.
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05-03-2022, 01:25 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank R
I think this would look okay if it was disguised as a roof rack.
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At 1" higher than the trolly roof, with 45° beveled ends. I would be surprised if anyone notices it.
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05-04-2022, 05:45 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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I did an inventory of my supplies left over from my boat building days. I have several yards of 6" wide 12 oz. biaxial tape, several yards of 6 oz. cloth, and about a gallon of resin.
I will have to unroll the 12 oz. tape and see how many square feet I can cover with two layers laid down perpendicular to one another.
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05-04-2022, 05:56 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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I am also tempted to just use two layers of lauan underlayment on the underside. Glue them to one another to maintain the arch and then glue the assembly directly to the elephant hide; then bolt the assembly through the fiberglass above. Then cover the whole piece with headliner material.
This would be a lot less work then the fiberglass.
Thoughts?
Maybe 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood. Better quality and I will probably be making the doors out of it anyway.
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05-07-2022, 11:08 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Nancy
Trailer: Scamp
Connecticut
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank R
My Scamp has a sagging roof near the middle of the arch. I would like your opinion on two different ways I am considering to fix it:
1. Reinforce the bottom by bolting on three or four 1" aluminum tubes, running from front to back, that I have pre-bent using my tubing bender, matching the arc.
2. Gluing (using epoxy) a sheet of FRP down the middle, either on the outside or inside. FRP is that sheet fiberglass material with the pebble finish that is used in cheap shower installations. The smooth surface would be oriented to be visible. Installing it on the outside would allow the elephant hide inside to remain intact.
Both methods would be accompanied by a supporting pole lifting the roof until installation is complete.
Any opinions, or better ideas?
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I had the same problem..was a snow load issue in the distant past. However I fixed the dip in the roof of my 1976 Scamp by adding a fiberglass beam. (Jacked up the ceiling to the proper height, cut and sanded down a bean shaped structure styrofoam material, then I glued it on the fiberglass after I cut away a bit of the elephant skin, sanded down the fiberglass surface and fiberglassed over it) . I’m not sure how to upload a picture since I don’t have a URL, but will email it to you have an address. I painted it white to match the ceiling elephant skin.
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05-07-2022, 05:45 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy.
I had the same problem..was a snow load issue in the distant past. However I fixed the dip in the roof of my 1976 Scamp by adding a fiberglass beam. (Jacked up the ceiling to the proper height, cut and sanded down a bean shaped structure styrofoam material, then I glued it on the fiberglass after I cut away a bit of the elephant skin, sanded down the fiberglass surface and fiberglassed over it) . I’m not sure how to upload a picture since I don’t have a URL, but will email it to you have an address. I painted it white to match the ceiling elephant skin.
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How hard was it to remove the elephant skin? Could it be re-used?
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05-08-2022, 06:13 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy.
I’m not sure how to upload a picture since I don’t have a URL, but will email it to you have an address. I painted it white to match the ceiling elephant skin.
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Sounds like you’re using the globe/link icon, which is used to creat a clickable link to an external website, hence the URL.
For pictures you want the paper clip icon on the top row. If you don’t see it, click “Go Advanced” under your post.
Your solution sounds interesting. Hope you post the pictures here so we can all see!
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05-08-2022, 12:42 PM
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#17
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Member
Name: Bob
Trailer: Scamp
Florida
Posts: 49
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SAGGING ROOF? First things first
If roof is sagging, first restore the original structural support. When we got out 1982 Scamp 16, only one support was left for the roof - the closet across from the door. Had to determine the correct profile and make templates for the structure from floor to ceiling. With the original structural support provided, have taken several 1,000 plus mile trips with not problems. I made solid wood supports instead of the curled steel at the rear. With the proper factory support duplicated, the roof should be fine with the exception of an air conditioner.
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05-09-2022, 07:27 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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This is what I am dealing with.
The structure is okay.
The second photo shows what it looks like after I put a board under it and propped it up from the inside. Much better but not perfectly smooth in either direction.
Working from the inside would certainly be easier, but anything I put in will interfere with head clearance (I am 6').
The first solution suggested, flat bar aluminum stock bolted across the ceiling, would probably be the simplest and least intrusive. Maybe two or three 1/4" thick pieces held on with stainless steel bolts. I could always add more.
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05-12-2022, 03:23 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Name: Lance
Trailer: Lil Bigfoot 1988 B13.5
Alberta
Posts: 28
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1988 13' Lil' Bigfoot interior Reno
Couldn't figure out how to get the link in the post. If you search it, it's still there.
I did this post a while back, it shows how I shored up the roof then used plywood and rivets to support then fiberglassed it all in. It has held up very well and no sag anymore.
Lance
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05-12-2022, 04:43 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Scamp
MI
Posts: 132
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Thanks. I looked at the pictures. That is one way I am considering.
The hole for the roof vent is troublesome since it is right on the edge of the monitor roof.
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