Fixing boler sag/door sag - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-28-2024, 11:02 AM   #1
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Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1978
British Columbia
Posts: 74
Fixing boler sag/door sag

I know this one has been beaten to death...


My 78 boler is sagging and the door is not sealing right anymore. Its definitely the shell sagging as the big cabinet has worked its way about 2 cm from the wall and the kitchen cabinet supports are slightly coming forward. I'm planning on putting that all back and adding some strength to it.



This is my main question: Whats the best/easiest way to get it to the right shape before redoing all the fasteners and reinforcing it?
I was thinking a 2x6 across the length of the ceiling inside propped up with a car jack till I get the right shape?






As for adding strength. I was going to use double rivet L brackets inside the big cabinet both sides top to bottom as well at front and back bench seats.



I rebuilt the kitchen cabinet up top with 1/2 inch cabinet ply so its stronger. I was going to add beefier material below the counter top and bigger bolts to support the upper cabinet/roof.



I'm considering wire cable across the front bench seat with plates on the outside. Maybe across the bed as we almost never use it as a table but if I do that I would have to make it removable just in case.


Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2024, 11:07 AM   #2
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Name: Steven
Trailer: '79 Boler
on Ontario
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Have you checked the steel frame that is there to support the FG body? They do sometimes crack and subsequently the Boler body looses shape.
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Old 02-03-2024, 07:53 PM   #3
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Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1978
British Columbia
Posts: 74
Hi Steve


My frame is in good shape. I got lucky with that. I'm the second owner. Original owner used it very little and kept it in a garage. Every couple years I crawl under and treat the frame with some rust inhibitor and a coat of paint.


I've got er mostly back to the right shape. I jacked the roof a little and used clamps and pressure to get it to where its suppose to be and re-riveted. I used double rivet L braces everywhere as it seems the singles are where it failed mostly. Once I'm done and happy with it I'll have to look at adding some more strength so I don't have to do this again soon.
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Old 02-03-2024, 08:05 PM   #4
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I took the rivets out of mine and put in stainless machine screw/flange washer/acorn nut. Picture here:
Attached Thumbnails
Boler - 1 (13).jpg   Boler - 1 (15).jpg  

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Old 02-03-2024, 08:07 PM   #5
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Trailer: boler 1978
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Screws are stronger but its risky. I always use aluminum rivets. I want the rivet to fail before the fibreglass
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Old 02-04-2024, 05:21 AM   #6
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"I want the rivet to fail"
That an interesting contradiction to what you've talked about earlier. I'd rather that nothing fail.
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Old 02-04-2024, 05:28 AM   #7
JPM
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Name: Jim
Trailer: 1972 Boler 1300
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve67 View Post
I took the rivets out of mine and put in stainless machine screw/flange washer/acorn nut. Picture here:
I have been replacing my rivets (when needed) with these as well. No issues thus far that I can see. The flange washer spreads the load on the fiberglass better than the rivets do (in my opinion anyway).
Cheers
jp
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Old 05-19-2024, 11:27 AM   #8
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Name: Sal
Trailer: BOLER
AB
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Originally Posted by steve67 View Post
I took the rivets out of mine and put in stainless machine screw/flange washer/acorn nut. Picture here:

Do you remember the size of screw, flange, washer and acorn nut that you're using? I was thinking of doing the same to mine.
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Old 05-19-2024, 02:41 PM   #9
JPM
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Name: Jim
Trailer: 1972 Boler 1300
Alberta
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I used # 8 Stainless Steel. The machine screws and acorn nuts are 8-32 and the screw is 1" long. Used it to replace the left inner rivet holding up the upper cabinet above the sink. It always leaked at that spot and since replacing no longer does.
Cheers
jp
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Old 05-20-2024, 05:07 AM   #10
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JPM's suggestion will work. I used #10-32 x 1" SS flat head machine screws and, of course, 10-32 acorn nuts as they fit the holes left by the pop rivets better. I also put a bit of butyl tape under the washer for added assurance.
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Old 05-20-2024, 05:22 AM   #11
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Photo of the product I used.
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Old 05-20-2024, 06:13 AM   #12
JPM
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Name: Jim
Trailer: 1972 Boler 1300
Alberta
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If memory serves me right, I don't think I could get a #10 screw through the rivet hole and I didn't want to drill out the hole so went with the #8 - or maybe the #8's were what I had on hand at that time. At any rate both will work fine (as per steve67) with the #10's being a bit more robust. The butly tape is a good idea as well. I used a flat and lock washer against the acorn nut as well.
Cheers
jpm
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