fixing Scamp door - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-20-2024, 10:32 AM   #1
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Trailer: none as of yet
Posts: 20
fixing Scamp door

has anyone redone the inside of their door. the door that is on the trailer the bottom half they put some waynescoating on it not sure whats underneath it..... i am trying to get it back in shape and some of the things they tryed to do really suck.... the trailer it self is in pretty good shape, no leaks but its all this other stuff that needs to be done.....

no friggie in it as of yet ( will find a used one) and does the 13 have hot water? seems the drain from the sink does directly out to the drain hole

also one of the curtain brackets broke off.. is there any kind of glue i can use.. i dont know how to get the screws out to replace them...
boy did i get taken!

i dont want to take the door off if i have to..... its a 1981 Standard Scamp...
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Old 06-06-2024, 07:00 PM   #2
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Name: Teresa
Trailer: Trek
Posts: 39
First off the originals didn’t use many screws mostly rivets. Rivets are drilled out. There’s lots of YouTube on how to remove rivets. It’s not hard at all.

Pictures of the door would be helpful. All these older scamps and Bolers have some door quirks. People do get creative how to go about fixing the “sag” at the bottom where it starts to loose the curve.
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Old 06-07-2024, 07:14 AM   #3
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Posts: 12,047
No hot water in basic 13' Scamps, no. All that came standard was a 12 gallon holding tank and a hand pump faucet to move the water to the sink. Some have the optional city water hookup, which is a separate faucet plumbed to an exterior fitting to attach a hose. The hot water system is a pot on the stove. Just like my 2008.

Curtain rod holders are mounted with rivets, as said. Owning a Scamp means becoming conversant with a rivet gun. You can start with an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight (along with a package of assorted rivet sizes). If you end up using it much, you'll probably eventually graduate to a better one.

Door sag, in which the door hangs crooked in the opening, usually means loose or worn hinges, which can be fixed with a hinge rebuild kit from Scamp or member Ian Giles' Camping Treasures website.

A large gap at the bottom is almost always a result of a leaking door window, resulting in a rotted lower door core. First step is to verify the problem. Drill several small holes at the bottom of the thick part on the inside. Be careful not to drill through the outer shell. If water runs out, you've found your problem. If not, use an ice pick to probe the wood inside the core. If it's mushy, you've got rot.

Fix starts with removing and re-sealing the door window to eliminate the source of the moisture. Then use a dehumidifier and/or fans to dry the door as much as you can. Sometimes it will regain some of its original shape once the core dries out.

If there's still a large gap, you have some hard decisions. One, you can try to live with it and add extra weather sealing to bridge the gap. Two, you can build something to attach to the lower door (like a magazine rack) to force it back into the original curve. That will require cutting parts back to bare fiberglass, and using epoxy and/or through-shell bolts to attach it. Three, some just attach a turnbuckle from the top of the door to the lower edge. Kinda ugly, and also requires bolts through the exterior. Four, you can rebuild the lower door core. Big, messy project requiring fiberglass work. Five, you can purchase a new door through Scamp. It will have the newer "rat fur" lining rather than Ensolite and a modern radius window. You could also order it without a window and transfer your old window to preserve the vintage appearance. It will be a brighter white than the rest of the shell due to age. You have to install the hinges and door handle yourself. Six, you can take it to Scamp and let them replace the door.
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