Floor replacement

[wunderlust]

I have a 1988 13 foot Perris Pacer in need of a complete floor replacement. As you probably know, the floor is adhered to the fiberglass which is continuous around and under the trailer. The fiberglass components under the bed/dining table and couch/ bunk beds seem to be structural but they are not part of the body fiberglass. Is there anyway to remove them to replace the floor and then put them back I assume the new floor (I assume it should be marine plywood) will then need to be reglued to the fiberglass. What kind of adhesive should I use for this. I received a lot of misinformation about the used trailer but that is on me for not checking it out. Can I remove the water tank that doesn't work anyway, and, if so, do I need to fiberglass over the cap on the outside when the water hose entered. I am only using it for boon docking and plan on installing solar and would like to eliminate any openings when water could enter. I have been working on leaks for a while now.

[FRED SMAILES]

Ive never looked at a Pacer so without pics im doing a lot of guessing here.
First, is the frame useable as is?
Lots a questions but if your going to replace the floor yes the interior would have to come out. Study and investigate how to remove the components. Pop rivets and screws are commonly used for attaching these.
I'd probably do a portion at a time.
As an example support the frame to the ground so it is solid. Support the body to the ground. Remove the rear dinette then a section of floor at the back of the trailer. Install replacement plywood and fiberglas the body to it. Holding the body in position is very important. Both height and width.
This is a huge job!!!!!!

[wunderlust]

Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES

Ive never looked at a Pacer so without pics im doing a lot of guessing here.
First, is the frame useable as is?
Lots a questions but if your going to replace the floor yes the interior would have to come out. Study and investigate how to remove the components. Pop rivets and screws are commonly used for attaching these.
I'd probably do a portion at a time.
As an example support the frame to the ground so it is solid. Support the body to the ground. Remove the rear dinette then a section of floor at the back of the trailer. Install replacement plywood and fiberglas the body to it. Holding the body in position is very important. Both height and width.
This is a huge job!!!!!!

Yes, the frame is in good shape with only superficial rust. Today I used a metal brush on my drill and a hand held metal brush and got the superficial rust off except for behind the wheels. Tomorrow, I will remove them one at a time and do that area. next I am using a rust converter over the entire surface followed by a rubberized black metal paint for tractors. Do you have any suggestions as to whether this process is sufficient? I feel like I need to replace the entire floor but the major damage is beneath the back window and next to the door. Problem is, although it is not currently wet, there is some water staining under the dinette area seats. I would have to cut out about 2 1/2 foot from the door to eliminate damaged area. Im considering a small circular saw set on a very shallow setting should I only partially replace the damaged spots. What are your thoughts on that. I know it has to be glassed to the fiberglass underneath. Should I put a jack under there and apply some pressure to it while ir cures. I have remodeled many houses and it would be easy (knowledge wise) if it was a house but this is tiny and difficult.

[FRED SMAILES]

If the frame is good anything to protect it is good.
Big house, small house small principles.
Is the flooring completely encased in fiberglass? Pics?
Is the interior floor the plywood plus finish material or a molded fiberglass reinforced with fiberglass encased ply?
Whatever the portion of ply removed the perimeter needs support on reinstall.

[Steve Hague]

Originally Posted by wunderlust

Yes, the frame is in good shape with only superficial rust. Today I used a metal brush on my drill and a hand held metal brush and got the superficial rust off except for behind the wheels. Tomorrow, I will remove them one at a time and do that area. next I am using a rust converter over the entire surface followed by a rubberized black metal paint for tractors. Do you have any suggestions as to whether this process is sufficient? I feel like I need to replace the entire floor but the major damage is beneath the back window and next to the door. Problem is, although it is not currently wet, there is some water staining under the dinette area seats. I would have to cut out about 2 1/2 foot from the door to eliminate damaged area. Im considering a small circular saw set on a very shallow setting should I only partially replace the damaged spots. What are your thoughts on that. I know it has to be glassed to the fiberglass underneath. Should I put a jack under there and apply some pressure to it while ir cures. I have remodeled many houses and it would be easy (knowledge wise) if it was a house but this is tiny and difficult.

Regarding the tool for cutting the floor, I tried several tools to carefully cut through the top layer of our Trillium 1300, and found that an oscillating multi-tool with a curved cutting blade worked best for me. I also had success with a Dremel cutting wheel, but it was difficult to control and produced more dust. If you are cutting fiberglass, the blades will dull quickly. Best to suit up and wear a fitted mask or respirator. I run a vacuum near the cutting tool as well.

[FRED SMAILES]

Originally Posted by Steve Hague

Regarding the tool for cutting the floor, I tried several tools to carefully cut through the top layer of our Trillium 1300, and found that an oscillating multi-tool with a curved cutting blade worked best for me. I also had success with a Dremel cutting wheel, but it was difficult to control and produced more dust. If you are cutting fiberglass, the blades will dull quickly. Best to suit up and wear a fitted mask or respirator. I run a vacuum near the cutting tool as well.

✓what he said

[wunderlust]

Thank you. I have both of those tools. I will have to check blades on the multi-tool. I am thinking seriously about just cutting out the damaged area instead of replacing the entire floor. About the replacement pieces - would I just attach them with resin to the fiberglass with a jack underneath to ensure that they bond and overcoat the entire floor, especially the cracks, with resin? I thought of adding a thin piece of sheet EPDM to the top of the floor to permanently waterproof it. Any thoughts?

[Steve Hague]

Originally Posted by wunderlust

Thank you. I have both of those tools. I will have to check blades on the multi-tool. I am thinking seriously about just cutting out the damaged area instead of replacing the entire floor. About the replacement pieces - would I just attach them with resin to the fiberglass with a jack underneath to ensure that they bond and overcoat the entire floor, especially the cracks, with resin? I thought of adding a thin piece of sheet EPDM to the top of the floor to permanently waterproof it. Any thoughts?

I suggest that you watch a couple YouTube videos by CheaperJeeperTV, Trillium Trailer Bunker to Dinette and Floor Restoration.

He takes his floor out in sections until all the rot was gone.

When I did my floor, I just took it all out, since I was certain that it was all bad.
Another thing that I did different: I laid a piece of 3/4 inch plywood under the trailer shell and over the trailer frame so that I had a firm, flat surface to compress the new floor. I used a jack-post to compress against the ceiling and just random heavy objects as needed until the fiberglass resin cured.

Regarding the EPDM, that's and interesting idea, but I'm not familiar with the material. Is it OK to use as an interior product? I would be a little concerned about degassing. I just re-used the existing floor like the video.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Steve

[wunderlust]

I will watch the videos and check on EPDM out-gassing. I am 74 and living alone. I destroyed my shoulders in a motor vehicle accident and have had multiple infections in both knee replacement joints. Still, I am capable of doing some projects. I'm not capable of very heavy lifting or using large sheets of 3/4 inch plywood. I have some wood that feels very solid and hard with a light coat of white mold from moisture that I have already killed. will watch the videos and get back to this site when I start the next step. I'm looking at good sealers for any wood that I may not try to replace. I have to jack it up and take the wheels off to access the small areas of superficial rust and should be through with the rust prevention projection in a few days. I hope we can continue discussing this.

[Flagpole]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7U01...heaperJeeperTV

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Steve Hague

Regarding the tool for cutting the floor, I tried several tools to carefully cut through the top layer of our Trillium 1300, and found that an oscillating multi-tool with a curved cutting blade worked best for me. I also had success with a Dremel cutting wheel, but it was difficult to control and produced more dust. If you are cutting fiberglass, the blades will dull quickly. Best to suit up and wear a fitted mask or respirator. I run a vacuum near the cutting tool as well.

I have found my vibrosaw is almost an essential fiberglass maintenance tool. I find the curved blades to be the best universal blades. But I also find that one of the reasons this tool works so well is the wide variety of blades available and the ability to change them quickly. Get several blades including curved and straight. Use the curved the most. But the second it will not reach where you want to work, change it out and use one that will get you there.


Now I have long ago tosses the allen wrench which came with my vibrosaw and changed it out of a t wrench where the allen is both on the main section and also on one end of the handle. That makes changing blades a snap.

[Jenius]

Hi Wanderlust,

I went through this exact process on my Perris floors. I initially was going to spot repair but the damage was more extensive than suspected and was forced to cut out all of the floors, remove the bench, and replace. It was difficult, slow going work, done on hands and knees. I even gouged through the fiberglass floor at one point, adding to my list of needed repairs.

The tool suggestions here are spot on. If your floor is like mine, it's fiberglassed in all around the perimeter, but it's [I]also[I] adhered to the floor with a layer of resin. Nothing comes up in big pieces and there is lots of scraping and sanding. For your situation, I would highly recommend cutting out just the damaged sections and replacing if at all possible.

There are some photos in my thread that will give you an idea what you are in for: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-96856.html