Hi…
Been lurking prior to and since my purchase in October, now that there is nice weather in Nebraska, I’m into repair and will be looking for advice and help.
Sorry for the lengthy explanation, but figured it will help with answers.
So my “soft” floor wasn’t just my increasing waistline.
We had a 1984
Boler years ago, that we did cosmetic restoration on and used for a couple of years, then
sold it. Ten years later, we were looking again, and traveled 500 miles to buy this one. Cosmetically it looked great but… floor was soft in a couple of spots, (in front of sink, and
refrigerator, between floor cross braces. I was hoping that it was just the minimal bracing.
During the below freezing winter I got in the trailer and could hear some cracking (think pond ice). Not a good feeling.
I pulled up carpet and cut a couple of inspection holes through resin top coat on floor, and found bad OSB and damp/wet wood in several places. Took some of the wet wood out and didn’t see any red tint from on board water anti-freeze.
This week I have removed side dinette, microwave/refrigerator cabinet, and am in the process of cutting out the old floor. It is mush and some is currently wet. It appears that the major culprit is water intrusion from the
refrigerator vent(s) and any water entering breached the front/side walls of the
refrigerator cabinet, and traveled to the floor. Also the refrig. top vent (with a hose spray), allowed water to travel down the outer wall of the trailer, and past the 2x4 brace and down past the failed sealant on the refrigerator shelf.
I have searched and read hopefully all of the posts regarding rebuilding/upgrades of this area.
May have been a small leak above the refrig/micro cabinet top rivet… 2 rivets had been replaced with SS bolts by PO, No sealant and no washer other than plastic bottom cap, and one was a little loose.
Questions:
1. Suggestions for floor replacement material.
-Marine grade plywood, (can be ordered with a week lead-time)
I was ready to order today, but with a little more research it sounds like other than strength of ply, improved finish, and less voids, it’s not much different than exterior grade plywood with waterproof glue. I was thinking it had some moisture/rot resistance.
-Exterior grade plywood
-MDO , seemed interesting on this link,
http://www.egyptian.net/~raymacke/TG/MDO.html
-Is there any kind of non-wood product, that would have the required strength and not have water issues?, Plastic, composite, similar to cement board, etc.?
2. Recommendation to put any adhesive on plywood to floor outer shell?, there didn’t appear to be any from the factory. I would plan on some sealant on the braces that will have the screws through them. (If I can hopefully) get the old rusty screws and large washers out without breaking every one of them now that they remain after floor was “scooped” out around them.
2. IF I decide to glass over the top, (although it makes replacement tough, and I have concern about all the holes that breach the
fiberglass, i.e. Gas line, water drain, supply lines, screws for cabinet mounting blocks, screws to hold flooring to braces, etc. etc… )
What product is recommended. I may opt for a good water proofing
paint, if there are suggestions.
3. I have ordered rivet kits, new refrigerator vents, from
Casita.
In anticipation (of eventual) reassembly, the rivets that hold the microwave/refrig, cabinet to the exterior shell (under the slide on door molding), appeared to be ground flush on the exterior? Is that correct and what type of rivet was used.
.
4. I was surprised although the trailer is leveled, that when I closed the door I now noticed a gap at the bottom of the door along the door latch side that the cabinet was removed. With a minimal amount of pressure at the belly band (parallel to the point at which the door latch is riveted) the side of the trailer flexed enough that the door would “suck up” at the bottom LF side . Just to be safe, I did cut a wood brace and stuck it floor to ceiling, where the top of the refrig/mico cabinet “supported” the roof. Hopefully the minimal about of structure that all the rivets along the cabinets though the exterior shell provides squares that back up.
I’m sure I’ll have many more questions and welcome and suggestions/experience.
I am taking a bunch of pictures ( as ugly as this may be) that will help with explanations, or perhaps may help others with questions about how something is constructed, anchored, wired,etc. I also pulled front a/c that PO had replaced, to ensure that that wasn’t also a source of leakage. It looks ok, with the exception of some sealing that needs to be added, and I think I will add a couple diverters to help with keeping road water out….(much later project.)
I will also check with “other” forum.
Thanks and sorry again for the lengthy post.
Dave