Frame Break - Scamp with Bent frame - How to fix?

[Anne in NW]

Hi - I'm trying to figure out the most cost effective way to fix the broken frame on a 1986 16' Scamp. I'm considering buying it a discount from a friend.

When the frame broke on the right side right behind the tongue - the left side bent a little bit. The door doesn't close properly. The rest of the frame and the axle look good.

Has anyone had this happen? Did you have to get a complete new tongue welded on? Were you able to get the bend out of it - what worked? Any ideas or help is appreciated. I'm in the Portland/Vancouver area in the PNW.

I have a friend who has been a professional welder for 20 years and will come out and weld back the break so I can drive it off the farm as is. But I think it will need more structural repair after this. I'm a longtime Casita owner - so the scamp is a little different. I can see on the side that didn't break the metal is quite weak/thin in the same spot that broke.

[Paul O.]

A number of people on this forum have described how their frame was repaired. Try do a search to find some of those threads. I remember some of those breaks were in the same area, where the frame is bent to the desired shape.

[FRED SMAILES]

If your friend is a long time welder Im sure he/she would be more than capable of giving you safe repair options.
As a hobby welder having built and repaired a lot a different stuff your frame break looks like a reasonably simple fix.

[Anne in NW]

Thanks! She said she should be able to fix it no problem. But I am still trying to figure out how to get the bent frame fixed.

[mleibelt]

Go check at a auto body shop...They should be able to pull the frame around with there equipment to straighten the frame and get the door aligned..

[vintageracer]

The frames on all these fiberglass trailers are mild steel tubing either square or round tube. They were all painted on the exterior prior to the install of the fiberglass shell HOWEVER the inside of the frame was never coated and therefore these frames will rust from the INSIDE OUT after 25-40 years!

IF you have a spot that bad on your frame NOW I guaranty you it's rotten in other spots too!

Take a hammer and start banging HARD on the frame to find all the other rotted spots.

Happy Hammering and you WILL find more holes in your frame!

At that point it's off with the shell to rebuild the frame and replace all the rusted elevator bolts that secure the fiberglass shell to the frame.

Not what you wanted to hear however that's going to be thef REALITY!

[drdoyle]

Take away on a trailer. Remove the fiberglass box from the steel frame. Sand blast and chip away all the rust. Extensively re-enforce and repair the frame. (They were weak from the design). If you ever put stabilizers under the back bumper and jack up the front foot pad , the frame and box warp to the point that the door won't line up to close/latch. So stiffen the frame. Check the axle while it is out in the open. Often the older ones need a new axle. Personally if the axle is removed and the frame is fixed but bare, I would take it to the galvanizer plant and have it dipped.

Sounds like you have a big project. Worth it only if you can buy is for a couple of thousand or so. You can always scrap the frame and put the box on an aluminum or galvanized boat trailer.

[redbarron55]

Older frames are light gauge metal and the newer ones are thicker.
When I fixed mine I replaced the frame from where the frame is doubled to the front hitch.
Here is what I did in front of the door to make it stronger.

I brought the frame to the very edge of the body and eliminated the bends as this weakens the frame and it also damages the tubing with the inside bent in and the top and bottom bowed.
This is what came out of my 1985 16' Scamp.



In my trailer I modified the front for a front wet bath and a part of that was adding a pair of rectangular tubes as a crossmember from one side to the other and you can see that in the first picture.
The frame is doubled in the area where the floor drops 6" and then the top (I think) continues forward to the bend and then the hitch. I doubled that and then tapered the bottom one to spread the stress over a greater distance.
I fabricated a new vee to a new hitch that has the normal 55* angle and fitted the new vee to the new frame that I brought forward and welded the angle added the cross member there and added fish plate gussets along the outside.
Good luck.

[Eddie Longest]

Remove the front bench, then remove the upper front floor sections. This will give you full access to the front frame and bends to access the condition and plan a repair. Many people install fish plates (outside) patches and go with that. Any attempt to remove a complete Scamp frame from the floor or shell will be a major undertaking. With the right tools the front cabinet and floor removal should take 2-3 hours. Installation will take longer because body alignment and fiberglass work are involved. I'm guessing a new frame and axle will be well over $2K. Is the trailer insured? This could be considered a total loss from a repair cost aspect?

[ROBERT ONEILL]

I had an older Scamp that had the same problem and it happened 200 miles from home. the two pieces had completely separated about 2 inches. I had to shove a tire iron into the frame and used 6 motorcycle tie downs wrapped around everything to just hold it together for the drive home. The only saving grace was that it is a light weight trailer. When I got it home, I took some square tubing that fit inside of the frame and welded it back together. It wasn't pretty but it would allowed me to move it around the yard at least but not out on the road. When I was working on it a person stopped and asked if it was for sale and I said yes but it was sold as is and told him the story and showed him the problem and that I felt it was not safe to tow anywhere. He said he didn't care and the he would fix it and tow it to Arizona by Flagstaff to use for elk hunting. I got $400 more that I paid for it so I did ok. The frame design at the door area where it broke was not very strong. I would never own any trailer that the frame is hidden in the fiberglass as you can't see if there are any cracks of holes in it. Other on here have repaired or replace the frame on them but to me I would just pass on it and find one with a good frame.

redbarron55 did it right but he is obviously a fabricator/welder with the tools to do the job right and looks to be a great job. What ever you do good luck and stay safe.

[computerspook]

I would say the comments on their probably being more frame problems is in target.

[Roger Kimble]

Your weilder can get the bend out, no problem