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07-02-2012, 02:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Frigidaire FRA054XT7, condensation?
I have this unit in hand and I've very pleased, I think I can get this working in the closet, above the wheel in my 13' Scamp.
BUT, one of my main concerns is where excess condensation will end up. Apparently this unit collects condensation and it gets sprayed/slung up onto the condenser to help radiate heat. At some point there will be too much and it's going to com out somewhere. Sprayed out the sides? Dripping out the back? I have left it running a while and have found no condensation, but in this high desert that's not unexpected. So other than just pouring water in the top and seeing what happens I'm not sure how to test for this.
Anyone have this particular unit? Have you used it in a humid environment enough to get a sense of what happens to the moisture in the unit? If you have this installed INSIDE a Scamp, how do you make sure moisture doesn't drain inside the trailer?
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin...20211a1420.pdf
PS, the remote does NOT display the temp or any information. You need to see the readout on the AC unit. But the remote seems to work fine. Any control input results in a SHRIEKING beep. I think I'll be opening up the unit to find what that emits from and wrapping tape on it until it's only slightly audible.
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07-03-2012, 04:09 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Name: Dick
Trailer: Scamp 13ft. 2012
Maryland
Posts: 19
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I have a similar Frigidaire mounted in the same location and live near the humid Atlantic. Yes, it will eventually condense water at a pace where the fan cannot get rid of it. It then will drip out the bottom of the AC. I had to place the AC unit into a pan with a hole attached to tubing which I ran into the wheel well. I found a pan used for baking cookies at K-Mart about a half inch deep, almost exactly the size of the AC unit. Maybe not so elegant, but it works fine.
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07-03-2012, 04:18 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick N
I have a similar Frigidaire mounted in the same location and live near the humid Atlantic. Yes, it will eventually condense water at a pace where the fan cannot get rid of it. It then will drip out the bottom of the AC. I had to place the AC unit into a pan with a hole attached to tubing which I ran into the wheel well. I found a pan used for baking cookies at K-Mart about a half inch deep, almost exactly the size of the AC unit. Maybe not so elegant, but it works fine.
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Gotcha. How did you put the drain in the pan?
I'll take my tape measure to Walmart, K Mart, etc. and look around.
Or may make something with plywood and fiberglass, we'll see...
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07-03-2012, 04:35 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: Dick
Trailer: Scamp 13ft. 2012
Maryland
Posts: 19
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Went to Lowes and got a plastic half inch drain thingy from the plumbing department. Had to modify it a bit with a Dremel tool. Drilled a hole in the pan, stuck the drain thingy through and epoxied it very well (did not want it to leak). Got some clear plastic hose (Lowes) with a hoseclamp, stuck it through the wheel well hole and voila, it works. Keep in mind you want a bit of rearward slope in the AC unit and pan so the water will run to your drain.
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07-03-2012, 04:41 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Great input, much appreciated.
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07-03-2012, 04:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Marking things off. The X is where the 10.5x13" vent will be. Just what that vent will be is unknown at this point.
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07-03-2012, 05:09 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Where to make intake vents is the main problem now. Tall thin vents on either side of the exhaust are so close to the hot exhaust. Above would be worse. That darn wheel well makes pulling air from below very challenging. Too close to the hot water heater vent is not ideal either.
I'm contemplating a box on the floor along the bottom of the closet. Maybe 4" wide and tall. I could cut several round holes and put perhaps 4 8mm muffin fans to pull air up, then holes in the bottom of the closet to get the air from that box. But that's just so inelegant and will not look great in the cabin.
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07-03-2012, 05:25 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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I believe Honda 03842 did an install with pictures in the same location awhile back, check his thread. My only concern with condensation is you have to drain it, this recirculating a/c that hold the water until it evaporates will allow a pool of water when you move your unit to appear.
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07-03-2012, 05:49 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: Dick
Trailer: Scamp 13ft. 2012
Maryland
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear
Where to make intake vents is the main problem now. Tall thin vents on either side of the exhaust are so close to the hot exhaust. Above would be worse. That darn wheel well makes pulling air from below very challenging. Too close to the hot water heater vent is not ideal either.
I'm contemplating a box on the floor along the bottom of the closet. Maybe 4" wide and tall. I could cut several round holes and put perhaps 4 8mm muffin fans to pull air up, then holes in the bottom of the closet to get the air from that box. But that's just so inelegant and will not look great in the cabin.
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I put the intake vents under the dinette seat and let the AC unit pull air through. Also, I vented the AC exhaust down through the wheel well, vice cutting a hole in the side. Had to custom make a shroud to direct the air down through the opening cut into the wheel well.
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07-03-2012, 05:50 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
I believe Honda 03842 did an install with pictures in the same location awhile back,
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Yeah, we've talked. The major difference is he does not have that pesky wheel well I do. Without that, there'd be more than enough room for all sorts of venting options.
Stupid wheels, why I do need those on a trailer!
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07-03-2012, 05:52 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick N
I put the intake vents under the dinette seat and let the AC unit pull air through. Also, I vented the AC exhaust down through the wheel well, vice cutting a hole in the side. Had to custom make a shroud to direct the air down through the opening cut into the wheel well.
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I'd love to see pics of your venting and install in general.
Pulling intake air from the right dinette seat might be an option. That's packed with my hot water heater and cold water tank, but there may be a solution in that area....
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07-03-2012, 06:18 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: Dick
Trailer: Scamp 13ft. 2012
Maryland
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear
I'd love to see pics of your venting and install in general.
Pulling intake air from the right dinette seat might be an option. That's packed with my hot water heater and cold water tank, but there may be a solution in that area....
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Don't know how to post pics on here. I have them and can send them via e-mail if you can get me your e-mail address.
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07-03-2012, 06:21 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick N
Don't know how to post pics on here. I have them and can send them via e-mail if you can get me your e-mail address.
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I'll PM you if that's best. But I just learned to post pics, so I can help you with that too. That way people can learn from them in the future.
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07-03-2012, 07:12 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Thinking a hatch like this would work to cover the AC exhaust when not in use.
Innovative Product Solutions M-1115-AW 11 x 15 Arctic White Boat Deck Hatch
I'd prefer something vented, then I wouldn't have to open it to use it, but I want something that opens so I can put a layer of insulation in off season. But the non vented hatch might be better peace of mind during long winters.
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07-03-2012, 07:20 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear
Thinking a hatch like this would work to cover the AC exhaust when not in use.
Innovative Product Solutions M-1115-AW 11 x 15 Arctic White Boat Deck Hatch
I'd prefer something vented, then I wouldn't have to open it to use it, but I want something that opens so I can put a layer of insulation in off season. But the non vented hatch might be better peace of mind during long winters.
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The problem with those hatches are they are plastic and will break once you try to secure them to the curved shell. I had to purchase aluminum hatches made by Pelland Enterprises here RV Parts and Motorhome Parts Online Outlet
A little pricey but quality and they can be bent to follow the curvature.
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07-03-2012, 07:27 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick N
Don't know how to post pics on here. I have them and can send them via e-mail if you can get me your e-mail address.
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Those are very helpful pics. Might be good reference for people, I can upload them to a gallery if you want for all to discuss.
So your cool air intake is just that vent in the top of the wheel well? I'd be concerned about water splashing up while towing in poor weather. I'd guess a few hours on wet roads and it would be soaking in there. Have you had any experience with that?
And what kind of vent on the side are you using?
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07-03-2012, 07:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
The problem with those hatches are they are plastic and will break once you try to secure them to the curved shell. I had to purchase aluminum hatches made by Pelland Enterprises here RV Parts and Motorhome Parts Online Outlet
A little pricey but quality and they can be bent to follow the curvature.
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Interesting link, I've spent hours searching and there's some options on there that are very cool.
Radius corner exterior screw mount full louvered door. Can be manufactured solid panel, propane, or full louver. Made to your specifications.
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...4564&Return=97
If they can make me one to my exact size? And put louvers on there that will vent well???? I'd pay a pretty penny for that. The AC unit was super cheap! So I can afford a little to get it installed right.
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07-03-2012, 07:52 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Name: Dick
Trailer: Scamp 13ft. 2012
Maryland
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear
Those are very helpful pics. Might be good reference for people, I can upload them to a gallery if you want for all to discuss.
So your cool air intake is just that vent in the top of the wheel well? I'd be concerned about water splashing up while towing in poor weather. I'd guess a few hours on wet roads and it would be soaking in there. Have you had any experience with that?
And what kind of vent on the side are you using?
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No, the hole in the top of the wheel well is the exhaust for the hot air going out the back of the AC unit. I have no vent on the side of the Scamp.
The vent on the wheel well can be closed while underway, to prevent water from splashing inside.
My cool air intakes are under the dinette seat. When the AC unit is running it creates negative air pressure in that whole area so is no problem for it to draw air up through the holes under the dinette seat. I can take a picture of those holes if you like.
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07-03-2012, 08:09 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Ahhh!! I get it.
I'll take any and all pics you feel like taking/posting. But I can get a pretty good sense of what you mean from your description.
What about draining, have you had any condensation excess?
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07-04-2012, 04:15 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Name: Dick
Trailer: Scamp 13ft. 2012
Maryland
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear
Ahhh!! I get it.
I'll take any and all pics you feel like taking/posting. But I can get a pretty good sense of what you mean from your description.
What about draining, have you had any condensation excess?
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Will take a picture of the inlet vent holes and send you. I neglected to take a picture of the condensate pan that the AC unit sits in.
Yes, under extremely humid conditions, the AC fan cannot totally dissipate the condensate. The pan drain takes care of the excess. The trick is to make sure to have the proper slope toward the rear when trailer is level.
This AC solution may not be the optimum for everyone. However; my goal was to come up with something that provided AC yet required no visible vent holes. We have had temps at or near 100 with very high humidity and this set up does just fine.
I do not think this design will provide the very maximum efficiency of the AC unit due to a bit of flow drag of the exhaust. Even at that, it does work. This is a new Scamp which we picked up at the factory in May so I have not had opportunity to use the AC over the long haul. Use over time will provide more data.
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