Furnace - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-06-2018, 06:44 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Markz View Post
We have two heaters in our Boler. One Propex LP heater, which I'm presently working on and an electric wall heater that replaced the original catalytic heater. The Propex is for boondocking. Attachment 124187
Please post a thread with your experience installing the Propex. I am seriously considering installing one in my Scamp. Retirement is coming soon for me and I intend to enjoy my Scamp year-round soon!
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Old 09-06-2018, 07:13 AM   #22
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Timber Wolf, have you done a site search? I vaguely recall a couple of Propex installations documented on the forum.

One more is always appreciated, though. Different trailer = different challenges.
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Old 09-06-2018, 08:14 AM   #23
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I posted links to five propex threads in this post:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post708174
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:56 AM   #24
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Another alternative that is also diesel fueled is the Nordic DT unit. It is a ceramic topped cook stovetop that has a lid. For the heat function you lower the lid and a small computer fan distributes the heat. This was designed for use on boats in the cold northern Europe Nordic regions. While it is not inexpensive to purchase it is very economical for fuel cost. Not difficult to install, it is vented to the exterior so no carbon monoxide to worry about and it dries the air so no condensation issues.
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Old 06-25-2020, 02:37 AM   #25
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Maybe, I think if you have a heater, basically it can keep your motorhome warm, therefore preventing you and your family from freezing up in cold climates. Maintaining warmth inside is also important to keep your trailer and other appliances from being ruined by the cold and the condensation.
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Old 06-25-2020, 05:32 AM   #26
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Ahh, water condenses out of the air on a cold surface when the surrounding air is warmer. That is how any dehumidification appliance works, whether it is an A/C or a straight dehumidifier. The source of the moisture is the air, not the surface. Heat does NOT drive moisture out of a trailer or any other space. To remove moisture, the air within must be exchanged for dryer air, the moisture must be absorbed/contained (e.g., with DampRid), or the moisture must be captured and relocated, which is what an A/C or dehumidifier does. When you add enough heat to water, it boils, creating water vapor, AKA, humidity. It is a fallacy that heat reduces humidity and moisture. The moisture simply switches from vapor in the air to liquid on cooler surfaces. And cold alone does not destroy appliances. Appliances in trailers winterized in Alaska survive severely cold temperatures and continue to function properly year after year.
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Old 06-25-2020, 07:44 AM   #27
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We suck in cold air from under the camper and blow the hot air out the roof.
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MarkZ,


The picture you posted shows an air conditioner mounted on in interior wall. I assume it vents to the outside. I am considering the same arrangement when I outfit our LiL Hauley. How do you handle air circulation for the condensor side and condensation from the evaporator?
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Old 06-25-2020, 07:46 AM   #28
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I will post a tutorial on it this summer.
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Please post a thread with your experience installing the Propex. I am seriously considering installing one in my Scamp. Retirement is coming soon for me and I intend to enjoy my Scamp year-round soon!
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Old 06-25-2020, 07:56 AM   #29
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Nope.
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I was wondering is it necessary to have a furnace in the RV??
There are no rules here.
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Old 06-25-2020, 08:13 AM   #30
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Maybe, I think if you have a heater, basically it can keep your motorhome warm, therefore preventing you and your family from freezing up in cold climates. Maintaining warmth inside is also important to keep your trailer and other appliances from being ruined by the cold and the condensation.
Define “ Cold Climates “
The furnace in most FG trailers will maintain temps in temperate weather
(0 deg F and above .)
We’ve camped in a Casita at temps that were well below zero and though we didn’t freeze to death , the temps and the humidiy were not what I would call comfortable
If you classify 20 to 30 deg F as cold then never mind .
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