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Old 10-06-2009, 01:04 AM   #1
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Hi, I've just recently tried out my furnace this weekend, it's a Atwood hydro flame 8012-II. When I turn it on from the thermostat, there is no fan, no ignition, nothing. I bypass the thermostat (connect wires directly together) and still no sign of life. There is voltage across the wires to the thermostat. I checked the on/off switch-circuit breaker behind the heater panel and it's working. Just in case I bypassed the switch/breaker with no luck. The voltage at the hot wire into the switch measures 5-6 volts only though. Checked the trailers main fuse panel everything appears OK, no blown fuses. I downloaded the furnace manual from this website, but it's not very helpful, the only trouble shooting is to call a service technician. Can anyone offer any more advice as to what I can check next? I'm thinking I can run a wire from the battery directly to the switch to see if it's a wiring problem.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:02 AM   #2
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You answered your own question. You need 12 volts, it won't turn on if you don't have 12 volts. Charge your battery and try again.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:36 AM   #3
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Check your voltage at the battery terminals, or as close as possible to the battery, with no loads turned on, and your converter/charger (if you have one) turned OFF. If this still shows only 5-6 volts, or anything less than 11 volts, don't bother trying to charge it - get a new battery. If you see 12 or more volts, then you have a voltage drop somewhere between the battery and switch, and need to check your wiring (although that seems to me to be an unusually large drop). If it seems borderline, take the battery to a shop that can test it.

Before doing any of the above, check the level of electrolyte and make sure your terminals are clean and free of corrosion.

If you have a charger/converter running, it should be putting out 13+ volts to the battery and your 12 volt loads (including the furnace). If it's on, the test above won't tell you if your battery is dead, but would still be able to indicate a voltage drop. You should be getting about 12.6 volts at the furnace just from the converter, with or without a battery.

Once you have full voltage at the furnace, then if it still won't start, you'll need to look for something else, such as propane supply.
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:29 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. Some more info.... the battery is new, all lights and water pump working fine. Voltage measured at one of the cigarette lighter type outlets inside the trailer is about 12 volts. No difference on the furnace working or not if running off the battery or converter. I'll try tracing the wiring back from the furnace, might be tough.

I just got the trailer recently and this is first time I tried the furnace, so...
What exactly should happen when it turns on? Does the blower start up and then I should hear the igniter clicking?
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Thanks for the replies. Some more info.... the battery is new, all lights and water pump working fine. Voltage measured at one of the cigarette lighter type outlets inside the trailer is about 12 volts. No difference on the furnace working or not if running off the battery or converter. I'll try tracing the wiring back from the furnace, might be tough.

I just got the trailer recently and this is first time I tried the furnace, so...
What exactly should happen when it turns on? Does the blower start up and then I should hear the igniter clicking?
Im watching this thread because I just got a uhaul home this wekend and its heater wont light either...thing looks to be all hooked up and if I were guessing.rarely or never used.....I'll charge my battery also and make sure it isnt a voltage problem with a volt meter,..........Bruce
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Thanks for the replies. Some more info.... the battery is new, all lights and water pump working fine. Voltage measured at one of the cigarette lighter type outlets inside the trailer is about 12 volts. No difference on the furnace working or not if running off the battery or converter. I'll try tracing the wiring back from the furnace, might be tough.

I just got the trailer recently and this is first time I tried the furnace, so...
What exactly should happen when it turns on? Does the blower start up and then I should hear the igniter clicking?
Here's a very brief guide to troubleshooting your heater ignitor board. Could just be a bad circuit board or defective sail switch.

Or...is it possible that your furnace has a pilot light instead of an ignitor? Is there an LP gas line shutoff inside the furnace, or just outside of it?

More info here.
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:04 PM   #7
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When you say that you 'turned it on', did you flick a switch somewhere, or flip the tiny little toggle at the left bottom edge of the main thermostat? That little switch has to be on (to the right), and the thermostat set to higher than the room temp for the blower to start. Then, after a while, if the sail switch is OK, the electronic igniter will start to spark. Often, there is air in the lines, so a few minutes may be needed.
Sorry if this is all sounding too simple, but I missed that little switch when I got my L'il Bigfoot back in 95. I 'almost' went back to the Dealer.
But then, I 'Read The Fine Manual'!
Good luck.
Mike .....>
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Old 10-07-2009, 03:28 PM   #8
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To answer your various queries...

There's no pilot light for this model of furnace, it has an ignitor.

There's a gas line shutoff "manifold" outside of the furnace, one valve each for refrigerator, stove, furnace. I haven't check that though, wouldn't the blower turn on even if the gas was off? Will check that tonight.

Don't think the sail switch is in the picture of possible causes yet, the blower doesn't turn on at all. Sail switch is only to detect presence of blower being on right?

Yes I saw the little switch in the corner of the thermostat and it's on. I also removed the thermostat entirely and hooked the wires together to rule out the thermostat.

The main issue I see here is the low voltage at the furnace, I'm guessing I have a bad ground or bad positive run. All the connections are crimped, I've had experiences with bad crimps. When I get some more time this weekend, I'm going to connect the furnace directly to the battery to see if it turns on.
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:29 PM   #9
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Update- furnace runs...however , the fan runs constantly no matter where the thermostats placed...the burner comes on and off like its maintaining a set temp but the fan runs always. There was a fuse out at the power inverter thingy or whatever its called...had the trailer plugged into house current and im asssuming the things charging the battery ...it makes a click sound when you hook up the power and is warm over the top of it so I assume its trying to charge...the battery tester however reads low....so my prob is the fan runs though the furnace cycless okay.....any idea's? thankyou in advance.........Bruce

ps...man does that booger get warm in a hurry bring on the cold!
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:23 PM   #10
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If memory serves me right that model has a heat exchanger limit switch and a fan cycle switch because the blower kit was an added on feature (dealer) to the basic passive package? There will be two flattish oval snap action thermal discs (usually marked Klixon) installed into the metal chassis looking toward the actual heat exchanger, one will measue closed all the time, the other will measure open cold...on some of these variations under different names there is an adjustable dial dead center to the fan switch numbered in tiny print with a slotted stem to set the cut in temp for the switch with a screw driver, this type is the fan cut in temp switch...the other way to find the control is to follow the leads from the fan motor and see where they go? one will go to (-) buss, the other will go to its governing temp switch....these were before the sail switch design used today still.

Be advised that all the designs had a cool down period after burner shut down and often run excessively before the fan shuts off, this is make sure all heat is gone.

Pictures help.

Safe Trails, Happy Camping.

Harry




Quote:
Update- furnace runs...however , the fan runs constantly no matter where the thermostats placed...the burner comes on and off like its maintaining a set temp but the fan runs always. There was a fuse out at the power inverter thingy or whatever its called...had the trailer plugged into house current and im asssuming the things charging the battery ...it makes a click sound when you hook up the power and is warm over the top of it so I assume its trying to charge...the battery tester however reads low....so my prob is the fan runs though the furnace cycless okay.....any idea's? thankyou in advance.........Bruce

ps...man does that booger get warm in a hurry bring on the cold!
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:11 PM   #11
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it's working fine now......I think I wasnt waiting long enough for the furnace cool down cycle.....I dont think I'll leave the fuse in though or it'll be coming on and off all winter, unless the main switch under the sink disables the furnace...I havent tried that yet........Bruce
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:08 AM   #12
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An update, I got the furnace partially working. Turns out the ground was bad, instead of trying to trace that one down, I ran another ground wire to the furnace. But it's still not working completely right. What happens is I turn it on from the thermostat, the blower immediately starts, after a bit, the igniter triggers and burner fires for about 5 seconds, I can feel heat and the heat exchanger gets quite hot. Then the 5 seconds, the both the igniter burner stops, the blower continues. Then after 20 seconds or so, the igniter triggers again and the burner fires again for 5 seconds. This repeats for 4 or 5 times. Then the blower continues and nothing else happens. It feels like the burner is on only when the igniter is sparking. I probed the sail switch input to the control board and my test light lights up so I don't think it's the sail switch.

Getting really frustrated here, would appreciate any ideas on what could be wrong, thanks in advance!
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:28 AM   #13
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Your igniter is most likely bad or not grounding properly. Remove and adjust and clean. The post needs to be in the center of the flame.
Your furance is operating properly. The heat from the flame produces electricity via a chemical reaction. The milly amps produced, sends a signal to open the gas valve.
It sounds like your furnace is trying three times to light and no signal to valve, so it times out.
Check your ignator and make sure it is surrounded by flame.
Remove the ignitor and clean the area that touches the furnace, most likely poor ground at this area. rust etc. also clean the connectors, pull off wire and clean spade and make sure you have a tight fit.
You have spark thats good, just try some more cleaning.
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:19 AM   #14
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Mszabo, thanks for the tips. I know on hot water heaters and and home furnaces there's a thermocouple that senses the burner/pilot is lit, and if there is no flame it cuts out the gas. That's where I wasn't sure if the hydro flame furnace had a thermocouple or not. Are you saying the igniter and thermocouple are combined into the same unit? I'll try cleaning it as you suggest, thanks again!
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:30 PM   #15
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Mszabo, thanks for the tips. I know on hot water heaters and and home furnaces there's a thermocouple that senses the burner/pilot is lit, and if there is no flame it cuts out the gas. That's where I wasn't sure if the hydro flame furnace had a thermocouple or not. Are you saying the igniter and thermocouple are combined into the same unit? I'll try cleaning it as you suggest, thanks again!
Hi there It sounds like could be the sense mode on the dsi broad is no good. You should be able to get it out with little trouble and get it tested at the R>V shop to make sure . Hope this helps
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:23 AM   #16
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Success at last!

I removed every possible connection (most were spade type terminals) squirted each with WD-40, and worked the connections in and out a couple times. Then I removed the igniter and sanded the tips and reinstalled. Furnace fires right up now and stays lit. I'm able to turn it on and off consistently using the thermostat, heats up the trailer to an uncomfortable level in just a couple minutes.

Thanks to all for your advice, especially Mszabo for your tip about cleaning the connections and igniter. To those keeping track, the other things I had to do was run another wire to a known good ground. I also saw the positive connection to furnace had a loose crimp, I cut that off and soldered and heat shrinked the wires together.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:22 PM   #17
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Doesn't is feel good to figure it out and, gain some knowledge along the way.
You may need to adjust your thermostat next, I'm sure there is an article somewhere on how to do that.
Good Job,
Mike S
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