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Old 10-29-2020, 02:21 PM   #21
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Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJo View Post
I purchased electric brakes, after being told that I had a 7 wire connection on my Volvo brake package. Turns out that I only have 4 wire so Scamp had a 7 wire trailer to 4 wire car connector so that I was able to get home with all the lights I needed, but no electric brakes. Can I give the electric brakes power without having to rewire the whole trailer package on my Volvo? (add a wire from a constant on light on the rear of my Volvo and thread it in to 7 wire trailer?).
Am I to understand that you picked up your Scamp at the factory and they did not explain things to you?
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Old 10-29-2020, 02:22 PM   #22
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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you need one of these installed on your car. it plugs into your 4 wire system and then you add the necessary connections to make you car 7 pin with brake controller and charge lines to your battery. Takes someone who knows what their doing.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/30717.html
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Old 10-29-2020, 03:39 PM   #23
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
Given the discussion thus far, OP would be well served by an in-person visit to someone who can walk her through the system and address any missing components.
Except for this little issue called COVID. But if I may misquote you...
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
... everything can be solved on the internet.
Zoom to the rescue! If someone would video chat online the OP could do a walk through and show the components.. that would likely answer most questions in mere minutes.

My guess is also that there is an Autowbrake brand controller which is either connected to the trailer battery for brake power (which is bad), or not connected to a source of brake power at all (worse).
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Old 10-29-2020, 06:02 PM   #24
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Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
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getting power to electric brakes

I wondered about that, using power from a tail light. of course it couldn’t be a turn signal light or a stop light. Have to look at it. My Volvo doesn’t have a license plate light or I could use that power source. no problem if it’s connected to the trailer battery because the trailer battery is charged when the car is running.
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Old 10-29-2020, 06:32 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by MJo View Post
I wondered about that, using power from a tail light. of course it couldnít be a turn signal light or a stop light. Have to look at it. My Volvo doesnít have a license plate light or I could use that power source. no problem if itís connected to the trailer battery because the trailer battery is charged when the car is running.
You have to have a lisense plate light. It is the law.
Now, Depending on the wattage required, the lisense plate light wire might be to thin.

License plate light sometimes is just a clear lense in a tail light. When the red is on some white light shines out a clear lense.
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Old 10-29-2020, 06:34 PM   #26
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Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
British Columbia
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Hire a competent shop to wire it correctly, and even replace that brake controller that Scamp sold you, if necessary.
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Old 10-29-2020, 06:55 PM   #27
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by MJo View Post
... My Volvo doesn’t have a license plate light or I could use that power source. no problem if it’s connected to the trailer battery because the trailer battery is charged when the car is running.
Please dont do either of those things.

Tapping onto the vehicle lights can cause problems in many ways. The added power use can confuse the vehicle's computer, blow fuses, result in voltage drop, etc. The wiring for the lights is designed by electrical engineers to power the lights.. not some brakes on a separate vehicle.

And using the trailer's battery to power the brakes might work for awhile, but there is no guarantee that the battery will always have enough charge to safely use the trailer's brakes. I promise you when you most need the trailer's brakes is exactly when the battery will not have enough power. Do you really want to have partial power when an emergency stop is required to prevent a collision?

But the tow vehicles battery and alternator will always supply enough power to the brakes when the vehicle is running (assuming proper wiring to the trailer). By wiring the brake power connection from the brake controller to the tow vehicle battery you have full power from the battery AND the alternator (when veh is running). A self-resetting circuit breaker on that line is also called for in case there is an temporary overload or short circuit.. Then the circuit will be protected but when the breaker resets you have functional brakes again.

I second the motion to find a good trailer shop and pay them to make it right.
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Old 10-29-2020, 09:47 PM   #28
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Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
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Originally Posted by nigeleccleston View Post
I also had Scamp install the AuTowbrake when they replaced the axle (with 10 inch brakes) on my Scamp 13. They hooked up the wireless unit to the power supply from my battery. Which runs down the battery as told above.
I changed the wiring so that power comes from the tail light wire. The AoTowbrake manual has instructions for doing this. It does mean that you have to have the lights on as you drive.
6 amps for 2 10" brakes is more current than most tail light circuits can handle. typical pre-LED tail light was 2 amps, LED ones are much less than 1 amp.
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Old 10-29-2020, 09:55 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by MJo View Post
no problem if itís connected to the trailer battery because the trailer battery is charged when the car is running.
uh, how is your trailer battery getting charged with a 4 pin hookup?
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:51 PM   #30
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It is impossible to remote diagnose this issue this way as the OP does not know, recognize or understand what they own so can not communicate what needs to be known to resolve it. Acquiring an understanding of what a person is looking at for a trailer brake system when starting from ground zero of knowledge takes some time and some research. It is not acquired in a few brief conversations. There are too many variations of brake systems and wiring options.
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:28 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
It is impossible to remote diagnose this issue this way as the OP does not know, recognize or understand what they own so can not communicate what needs to be known to resolve it. Acquiring an understanding of what a person is looking at for a trailer brake system when starting from ground zero of knowledge takes some time and some research. It is not acquired in a few brief conversations. There are too many variations of brake systems and wiring options.
This thread has run its course. An expert in camper wiring and in teaching the owner is required to solve these issues.
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Old 10-30-2020, 12:19 PM   #32
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Name: Lynn
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This has gotten way too complicated. You have four wires going to the trailer - you need five. The fifth would be power from your car to the trailer battery. That will not only make sure your trailer brakes will work but will mean you have a charged battery upon arrival at your next campsite. The most convenient solution is to mount a seven pin connector on your car that matches your Scamp plug. You can leave the additional two pins un-wired.
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Old 10-30-2020, 03:08 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Lynn Eberhardt View Post
This has gotten way too complicated. You have four wires going to the trailer - you need five. The fifth would be power from your car to the trailer battery. That will not only make sure your trailer brakes will work but will mean you have a charged battery upon arrival at your next campsite. ...
Sharing a single power source to charge the trailer battery AND power the trailer brakes? Here's the problem with that... in the case that the trailer battery is heavily discharged (like it might after a few days of boondocking), then when you start to drive away the discharged battery will in effect be sucking most of the power from that single wire... whatever is left for the brakes will be reduced and since the battery is also discharged the brakes will not have full power. So I would do as all the experts say... run a seperate 10 gauge wire from the tow vehicle battery to the brake controller's brake power (magnet) connection. Use a self-resetting 12 volt circuit breaker at the tug battery. That way the alternator (via the battery connection) will be sure to provide full power for the brakes any time the tow vehicle is running.

Now if you want an optional charge line to the trailer battery thats fine.. just use seperate wire so you're not robbing the brakes of some of the available power.

4 wires for lights. 5 for lights and brakes. 6 for lights, brakes and charge line.
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Old 10-30-2020, 03:40 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
6 amps for 2 10" brakes is more current than most tail light circuits can handle. typical pre-LED tail light was 2 amps, LED ones are much less than 1 amp.
you could use the lamp light to switch a relay carrying the current needed but it complicates things. there's more than one way to skin the cat.
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Old 11-04-2020, 12:32 PM   #35
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Amerigo
Wisconsin
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If interested I have the trailer end of the wiring and a wireless brake control, both brand new. I decided not to use them when I found out how much the wiring on my tow vehicle was going to cost. It's big enough I don't really need trailer brakes with the small trailer and large van tow vehicle.
Lmk
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Old 11-04-2020, 02:32 PM   #36
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Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
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getting power to electric brakes

thank you. I already purchased one, a week or so someone told me how to find one, but there must be someone else out there with the same problem, keep looking. thanks anyway, MJo
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