Grease gun question - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-17-2016, 07:40 PM   #61
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Popcorn anyone?
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:51 PM   #62
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This thread is almost as exciting as Tires and Towing threads get
LOL Yup just waiting for someone to ask what the OP is pulling the trailer with
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:18 PM   #63
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I am not sure I want to say....just kidding... 2011 Toyota Tundra 4x4 with largest v8
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:31 PM   #64
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Whewwww....Ooookkkk....Rzrbrn.... ole Tennessee buddy....(what part of Tenn? I'm from "Middle Tenn.")

Now about that grease gun....

Choosing a grease gun is just too tough a question for the group as you can tell. Think I'll just go on it.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:04 PM   #65
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Thanks, Donna, I'd love some popcorn!

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Old 03-17-2016, 10:38 PM   #66
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Hey Pat. As a Disclaimer, stating what I do is by NO means a suggestion to others on how they should maintain their trailers. If in doubt, go by the manufacturer's recommendation.

But for me? I've been around mechanics (am a former machinist) ALL my life. Keep in mind, my Scamp 13' weighs only 1800lbs on a 2200 lb rated axle and I do NOT load it down traveling. When I'm not traveling, I keep my Scamp off the ground on jacks, spin the wheels regularly year-round. I take my Scamp out in the spring and pull for a min. 15-20 miles at apx 65 mph steady. I have an exit ramp on a 4-lane where I pull off....get out and check the temps. I do NOT use my trailer brakes when stopping to check the hubs as you WILL get a higher reading!! And this can throw you for a loop! I also check for "play" by placing my hands one on each side of the wheel and try to shake it back and forth. Vigilance is EVERYTHING on anything/any vehicle.

My hubs still run the same temps as when the Scamp was brand new in 2010 and 10000 miles ago from Scamp. I did adjust my brakes last year.

Again, this is just MY opinion and I dont recommend it for others. But do you pull the front wheels (or rear wheels on front wheel drive) vehicles and check the bearings every year regardless of the few or many miles you put on it?? That's basically what the axle makers are saying.

I'm not saying whether to grease through the EZ Lube regularly or not. Just dont know without thousands of miles of tests whether what is 100% right or wrong. Many feel to pull, clean, inspect, replace, repack their bearings EVERY year. I do not and will not unless I have a trailer that I KNOW is running borderline. If I have that trailer, I dont want it for long. Mine has built-in safety margins on both the axle and tires as you can see. My tires are rated at 1326 each. I have apx 900 at full load MAX!

Good luck and do you what you feel you should do.... I've seen/heard of some doing the maintenance job, and they get the bearings too tight going back together and REALLY have trouble. So, regardless..... KEEP A WATCH ON YOUR HUB TEMPS AT ALL TIMES!! I spot check mine at every fill-up.
Since joining these forums , belong to Escape too . Why when forums members are asking for suggestions or help , there are some who for whatever reason , bully , make fun and really turn people off . If they don't want to help or offer suggestions why do they have anything to say at all ? It is dishearting and a lot of people go away . Thought these forums were to be helpful . Thankyou Darrel taking your suggestions under advisement. Pat
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Old 03-18-2016, 01:12 AM   #67
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Hey while we're at it...what are the correct size sockets for pressing seals/bearings in & out?
You do not need a socket to do either. You can just tap the bearing out with the hub laying down on the floor. To reinstall the bearing just use a piece of flat metal over it and tap it back in with a hammer.

The only special tools I have for doing the bearings is a grease repacking tool - it makes the job much easier/cleaner. The one I have looks something like this:
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:59 AM   #68
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You do not need a socket to do either. You can just tap the bearing out with the hub laying down on the floor. To reinstall the bearing just use a piece of flat metal over it and tap it back in with a hammer.
Carol ment to say seal not bearing. The bearing will be loose. The seal is press fit. Too much pop corn, perhaps.

I have several tools I find useful. A good quality hydraulic floor jack. A breaker bar for loosening lug nuts. A speed wrench for quickly removing lug nuts. A socket that fits the castle nut. A torque wrench. And a piece of 2" PVC pipe to drive in the grease cap. I'm not sure what Roger was referring to. Perhaps he is using a socket to drive the new seal into the hub? I use a board and a mallet. Raz
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:10 AM   #69
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Ok thanks.

So if the bearings are "loose", I guess the old socket that matches the size of the outer bearing diameter wouldn't be necessary.



Pat I think mostly people are just having fun with the fact that we can debate such a seemingly simple, clear-cut topic so much. There are a few other topics like this (like the correct tire pressure for trailer tires) that you would think are very simple (and actually are) But yet there are pages and pages and pages of discussion.

People are making fun of our tendencies to do this, not of anyone specifically in this topic and it's not in my opinion mean spirited.
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:16 AM   #70
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Ok thanks.

I know with other bearings, they are typically driven in & out, and what you do if you don't want to buy a special tool made just for that size bearing or seal is use a socket from a socket wrench set which is the same size as the outer diameter of the bearing, and drive it in or out using that and a hammer.

But if the bearings are "loose", then I guess it wouldn't be necessary. A flat piece of metal would serve the same purpose, but sort of be a "special tool", I guess, in the sense that you're carrying around something extra for just that job...where a socket has multiple uses. Unless you use that piece of metal for something else.

Pat I think mostly people are just having fun with the fact that we can debate such a seemingly simple, clear-cut topic so much. There are a few other topics like this (like the correct tire pressure for trailer tires) that you would think are very simple (and actually are) But yet there are pages and pages and pages of discussion.

People are making fun of our tendencies to do this, not of anyone specifically in this topic and it's not in my opinion mean spirited.
Dexter talks about driving out the bearing race when bearing replacement is required but they sell new hubs with bearings and races installed so there is no need. They also sell complete backing plates cheaper than the individual brake parts.
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:17 AM   #71
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I have the EZ - lube hubs and I like them.
As an engineer for 45 years I and both offended and agree with the comments.
As a maintenance and reliability guy I know what he is talking about.
On the ez-lube I think it works well within it's limitations.
The manufacturer suggests annual manual repack.
One think many do not realize is that bearings should not be over full.
If you use the EZ system you will over fill the bearing and it will run a little hotter until the excess grease is expelled.
This shouldn't be much of a problem since the relief is always open.
I also stop after a short distance and check the hub temp.


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Old 03-18-2016, 07:37 AM   #72
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As an engineer for 45 years I and both offended and agree with the comments.
As a maintenance and reliability guy I know what he is talking about.


Yeah I think the take-home lesson is that engineers are people. Just like people in any other profession, they aren't god and they don't know everything, sometimes miss something, and can sometimes lose sight of the end user while trying to get all fancy with something. You only have to pay attention to vehicle recalls to know that engineered equipment, like everything else in the world, is a "work in progress", always being tweaked and corrected and, sometimes...scrapped.
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:56 AM   #73
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Dexter talks about driving out the bearing race when bearing replacement is required but they sell new hubs with bearings and races installed so there is no need. They also sell complete backing plates cheaper than the individual brake parts.
I can run down to my local auto parts store and pick up new bearings, replace the races in the hubs, and be done a whole lot quicker cheaper and easier than waiting for new hubs. I have a seal puller and a seal driver set. A simple rolling head bar is good for removing the seal, better than hammering on the bearing. I recently did buy a complete brake set, backing plates with shoes and the magnets. About $42 each. Heavy Haulers, a trailer and truck cap dealer is close to me and they stock all the parts. They even had the special lock piece for the spindle nut.
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:29 AM   #74
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I can run down to my local auto parts store and pick up new bearings, replace the races in the hubs, and be done a whole lot quicker cheaper and easier than waiting for new hubs
I found that if you wanted to replace the hub it was cheaper to buy the set. Same with the backing plate. What I can't figure out is why the #10 parts are cheaper than the smaller #9.

Quote:
A simple rolling head bar is good for removing the seal, better than hammering on the bearing.
I'm not sure what a "rolling head bar" is? I use a pry bar. Same thing perhaps? Hammering on the bearing. Interesting.
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:20 AM   #75
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!0" being cheaper is probably due to there are more in service than the 9" ?? Here's a picture of a seal puller and what I'm calling a rolling head bar, actually listed as a "Lady Foot" bar. My misnomer, sorry. On another forum for vintage campers there are instructions for greasing bearings that state to insert a punch or wood dowel into the hub against the inner bearing and drive it and the seal out. Then wash the bearings in gasoline. It works, but I'll stay with the seal puller and non-flammable parts cleaner.
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:26 AM   #76
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This is almost as good as the BMW motorcycle forum that I frequent. The latest discussion to get everyone's undies in a twist was not the annual springtime , "What's the best motor oil to use?". No it was, "Do I really need to pay $150 for a Snap-On torque wrench, or is the $15 Harbor Freight torque wrench OK?" I think that discussion (that's being generous) went almost 9 pages before the food fight was over!

Let's go camping!!
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:07 AM   #77
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I used to spend a lot of time on a banjo forum and there was a heated, dozen page thread on whether a certain song was played in G# or Ab...

Anyone with some basic music theory knowledge will understand...

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Old 03-18-2016, 10:27 AM   #78
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GOOD one Zach... same note/chord!

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I used to spend a lot of time on a banjo forum and there was a heated, dozen page thread on whether a certain song was played in G# or Ab...

Anyone with some basic music theory knowledge will understand...

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Old 03-18-2016, 11:14 AM   #79
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Carol ment to say seal not bearing. The bearing will be loose. The seal is press fit. Too much pop corn, perhaps.

Raz
Thanks Raz for the correction - 100% correct.... as you say tap the seal. .

Nope not to much popcorn just forgot that someone who has not done it before his not going to beware the bearing is loose and its the seal that needs some help to pop out.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:30 AM   #80
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I BTW am still sitting here eating popcorn as this thread is like watching a movie - whats the ending? Did the OP actually purchase to 2 grease cartridges containing mostly air or is the brake assembly holding 2 cartridges of grease resulting in a faint of heart braking/towing adventure.

The OP seems to know what every good movie director knows, to make it a good thread you need an element of suspense
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