Grounding a 'portable' solar charge controller question: Scamp 13' - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-05-2025, 03:38 PM   #1
Member
 
Name: Shannon
Trailer: 2002 Scamp 13' Std, Honda CRV
Washington
Posts: 63
Grounding a 'portable' solar charge controller question: Scamp 13'

Hey everyone,

Seeking some input on my tiny solar system. I am adding the ability to charge my deep cycle marine lead acid house battery by solar. Because I have very low power needs in my Scamp, I decided to get a portable solar panel with a 25' extension to do the job rather than a whole mounted solar system with inverter, mounted panels, etc. Portable panels give me the ability to move with the sun; park in shade and extend panel to the sun, etc. I am only running lights and a Propex furnace thermostat (another post coming on that install).

How I have set up the solar:
1. A Victron 100/20 solar charge controller mounted to a board with a pigtail that has an SAE male connector on the battery side; a pigtail with an MC4 connector on the PV side that connects to a 25' extension wire with MC4 connectors to reach from SCC to panel;
2. A 220W Renogy suitcase style panel (their newest version);
3. An SAE charge port is installed into the wall of the battery box, with the ring leads attached to the battery posts.

The Scamp has a PD4100 smart converter installed.

The charge controller with attached pigtails, and extension wire are kept in a Pelican box type case that I set up in the case next to the Scamp battery and plug in when I need to to charge, and then store away when done.

My question is this: There is a grounding screw on the left side of the Victron. Does the Victron need to be grounded in this scenario? In researching I see conflicting answers. This set up seems to be called a "Floating Ground System" and in the manner in which I am using it, does not need to be grounded. However, other comments say that it does need to be grounded, either to the chassis or by driving a stake into the ground 3', lol (I'll need a bigger case). And getting hold of Victron seems to be near impossible.

Any comments? Thank you in advance.
Attached Thumbnails
20250205_133244.jpg   20250204_172951.jpg  

20250205_133257.jpg   20250205_133351.jpg  

Shannon Thompson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2025, 09:48 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Jon Vermilye's Avatar
 
Trailer: Escape 17 ft Plan B
Posts: 2,437
Registry
No, it is portable it does not need to be grounded. If it is permanently mounted in the trailer, the ground screw should be connected to the trailer frame.
Jon Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2025, 08:46 PM   #3
Member
 
Name: Shannon
Trailer: 2002 Scamp 13' Std, Honda CRV
Washington
Posts: 63
Thanks, Jon. Appreciate it.
Shannon Thompson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2025, 04:34 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 1,162
Jon got it right --- probably.


OK some times the manufacturers will have other guidance and if they do follow it. But one thing to understand is that ground is just an artificial concept. It is just a reference point.


If you get into doing drawing electrinics out there are actually two types of "ground": "earth" and "chassis" and both can be other things than you would think. As an example I have done work where if you were to find a way to safely measure the difference between a stake driven in the ground and the "earth ground" of the equipment we were working with you would actually measure several thousand volts. Yeah special science stuff, but the point is that as long as you have the reference you are good. Chassis ground is basically the ground within the box of electronics you are working with. A lot of the time the chassis ground is connected/bonded to the earth ground which yes usually is the earth but now always. I have done work where if you were to put a ground rod in the ground 500 foot apart and then put a meter between them it would read several volts.



So one thing is that you want a single ground to be your ground. If you were to take some equipment and hook it up with wires between it and then hook it to earth ground in both of the locations mentioned above it likely would fail because there would be two grounds.


But as I said ground is just a point of reference. I your case you it does not sound like you need a connection outside of the box. As long as all of the things that need to be connected to "ground" are all connected to a central point with big enough wires that there is minimal resistance then you will be golden.


Then the comment that Jon made about the camper frame. Now in a way your camper is a box of electronics just like say a transistor radio. If you were to have a old transistor radio it would have a case and then everything in that case that needed to be connected to ground would be connected to the same point. And that is great and makes it work just like any other piece of electronics you have. Now if you connect two boxes then their grounds will most likely need to be connect to each other. Add another box and its ground also would need to be connected to those grounds.


That is the principle of the camper trailer. There is nothing magical about the camper frame. It is just a convenient point of reference therefore a point of connection for the grounds of all of the various boxes in your camper. You could in fact have nothing in the camper connected to the frame and still have everything work great as long as they were all connected well to each other with big enough wires and good solid connections. But the secret is that the trailer frame is like a giant huge diameter connector which runs everywhere along the bottom of the trailer. So if makes a really convenient way to connect all of the grounds and have them connected with big enough "wire" that there is very little resistance in getting from front to back. So the "ground" is the same all the way through.


So if you pick your box up and put it in the camper no problem as long as it is well connected inside no other ground would be needed. Lay it out on the ground out away from the trailer no problem no more ground connection is needed. If you hook something to it that is not connected to anything else to power it, and you connect the ground of that device to your case's ground you have what you need. But if you connect it into something in the trailer that is connected to the rest of the electrical things in the trailer then you need to make sure you solar box's ground is connected to the trailer's ground, most likely the frame directly or indirectly.



Now about these connections. They need to be as big or bigger wires than what is needed for the rest of the wiring in the system. If your power like is coming out of the box to power things is say 10 gauge, then you will need the wire that connects it to the ground of the items being powered with at least a 10 gauge wire. In many cases good design is to go to the next size bigger such as say an 8 gauge wire.


Then to the actual connections. Remember you are dealing with an RV. something that moves. So the wires and the connections have to support that fact. Frankly mostly I solder the connections for things that I have that move as much as possible. If you have a bolt or screw making the connection, make sure that it can't come loose with vibration or abuse. And generally stranded wire is more compatible with any item that moves.


I know this is a lot to read, but hopefully this will help you understand what you are dealing with and how to deal with the question and those people with their answers to this question.
computerspook is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp, solar


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Solar Charge Controller clyle Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 21 09-05-2014 08:13 AM
Solar Panel Set up Question - Grounding the panel? Anne H Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 2 09-07-2012 04:48 PM
Solar Charge Controller Installation kevin61 Modifications, Alterations and Updates 3 02-22-2009 09:20 AM
Solar charge controller yvonne Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 24 06-26-2008 05:46 AM
Fluid, Battery Levels & Solar Charge Controller? peterh Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 9 04-27-2007 04:45 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.