Has anyone used a Goal Zero Yeti to power a furnace?

[McRider]

Hi Everyone,


The original furnace in our boler is broken and I want to replace it with something new, like the Propex HS2000. In order to do this, I would need to power the fan and I want to avoid the cost of installing a battery and complete the rewiring that would go with it.


We have a Goal Zero Yeti 150 and I thought it might be a good solution for this issue. My question is, has anyone else used a Yeti to power their furnace? I have looked through the internet and these forums but I haven't found any examples, but I'm not sure why it wouldn't be plausible because unless I'm mistaken, it just needs a 12v supply.



Essentially, I was thinking I could use the cigarette plug and wire the furnace up to an adaptor like this 12v adapter.



Any thoughts or advice is really appreciated!



Chris

[Defenestrator]

Should work well enough. The 12V output can do up to 10A and the furnace only needs 2A.

If it only powers the furnace and starts out full, it should last about 10 hours. Chances are the furnace won't actually run constantly, so in most cases you should get a lot more than that.

[McRider]

Thanks so much for this. Do you think I'm on the right track with the adapter?

[Defenestrator]

Right general idea, but I'd go for a bit beefier wiring. That's apparently ~21AWG wire (0.4mm^2), and something more like 16AWG would be a lot better for minimizing voltage drop.

There's lots of similar options, but this one looks like it'd work well.

[Timber Wolf]

Sorry but I don’t understand the reason behind the question. I just installed a Propex in my Scamp, and it was over $700. And I spent a lot more $$$$$ than that all in, and I did all the work myself! The Goal Zero looks to be $200, a battery, some wire, and a fuse block would be around that or less. And installing the battery would CERTAINLY not be any more work than the Propex is gong to be.

If you just want to go the Goal Zero route, I get it. But it IS NOT cheaper. And if you can handle installing the Propex the battery stuff should be cake. What am I missing?

[Defenestrator]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

Sorry but I don’t understand the reason behind the question. I just installed a Propex in my Scamp, and it was over $700. And I spent a lot more $$$$$ than that all in, and I did all the work myself! The Goal Zero looks to be $200, a battery, some wire, and a fuse block would be around that or less. And installing the battery would CERTAINLY not be any more work than the Propex is gong to be.

If you just want to go the Goal Zero route, I get it. But it IS NOT cheaper. And if you can handle installing the Propex the battery stuff should be cake. What am I missing?

They already own the Goal Zero and wouldn't be buying anything (except the $7 adapter) to make it work with the furnace.

Not sure on the labor savings, but it probably depends a bit on exactly what's there now. An old Boler that's had many owners over the years could need a major overhaul instead of just a single wiring run and a battery.

[McRider]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

If you just want to go the Goal Zero route, I get it. But it IS NOT cheaper. And if you can handle installing the Propex the battery stuff should be cake. What am I missing?

That's a fair question, but there's a number of reasons why I'd like to go this route.

First, I already own a Yeti 150 so there is no additional purchase cost.

The other reason is that it would be really easy to connect it into the existing boler power system using one of the 110v sockets, so I could just plug the boler into power at home to keep it charged. I wouldn't have to worry about inverters, figuring out a charging system or any other rewiring.

I just need to worry about the one wire, from the furnace, to the goal zero and the rest is straightforward.

[McRider]

Originally Posted by Defenestrator

Right general idea, but I'd go for a bit beefier wiring. That's apparently ~21AWG wire (0.4mm^2), and something more like 16AWG would be a lot better for minimizing voltage drop.

There's lots of similar options, but this one looks like it'd work well.

That's SUPER helpful, thanks so much for taking the time to help!



What do you think of using this Goal Zero adapter, that connects to the regulated 6mm hexagon port?

[Defenestrator]

Should also work OK. It doesn't mention wire gauge, but it does look a bit thin. Fairly short though, which will minimize voltage drop. Just stick with at least 16AWG if you have to add some wire in the middle. The car-type 12V socket might be a bit more flexible if you use a different power source, and it's cheaper.

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by McRider

First, I already own a Yeti 150 so there is no additional purchase cost.

Ah, sorry I did miss that obvious fact.. Good luck with the Propex, I really like mine.

[McRider]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

Good luck with the Propex, I really like mine.

That's great to hear and makes me feel like I'm heading in the right direction!



I'm wondering which model you got, and where you mounted it? I'm debating between the S2000, which is cheaper but has to be mounted internally, and the HS2211 which is more expensive but could be mounted externally.


I suspect there are some key differences between your trailer and the boler, but I'm super curious and looking for inspiration!