Heat transfer from escape hatch frame

[hp in va]

Quite by accident, I noticed that the aluminum frame of my 2013 Parkliner was almost too hot to touch when exposed to sunlight in a no shade environment. I don't want this extra heat load transferred into the interior of my Parkliner. Any suggestions to insulate this from the interior?

[Paul O.]

Not knowing the construction details, it is hard to say what options you have. Is it on windows, vents, or?

[David B.]

You might try using the foam type insulation that protect water pipes from freezing, or a pool “noodle” in the color of your choice. Friction fit or double stick tape could keep it in place. Our Scamp escape hatch over the bed would drip condensation on me, so I friction fit a very soft foam backed bath mat to the space.....problem solved.
Good luck with yours.
Dave & Paula

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by hp in va

Quite by accident, I noticed that the aluminum frame of my 2013 Parkliner was almost too hot to touch when exposed to sunlight in a no shade environment. I don't want this extra heat load transferred into the interior of my Parkliner. Any suggestions to insulate this from the interior?

Are you talking about the rear window/escape hatch? Or a roof hatch?
Shading from the outside is a good way to reduce heat load.
Where is your A/C located?

[redbarron55]

On my old Scamp hatch I don't notice the heat as much as the cold and condensation on the inside of the aluminum frame.
I have thought about something like a strip of Ensolite glued to the inside just like the rest of the camper has.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

On my old Scamp hatch I don't notice the heat as much as the cold and condensation on the inside of the aluminum frame.
I have thought about something like a strip of Ensolite glued to the inside just like the rest of the camper has.

I used a piece of 1" thick rigid foam insulation, cut to have a press fit inside the hatch (we had the deluxe scamp with wood trim around the hatch/vent frame.)
Removed the crank handle. and notched out a recess to fit the crank body.

[hp in va]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Are you talking about the rear window/escape hatch? Or a roof hatch?
Shading from the outside is a good way to reduce heat load.
Where is your A/C located?

This is the middle roof escape hatch.

My A/C is located under the front side table bench. The A/C also conducts a lot of condenser heat into interior. Parkliner did a poor job separating and directing these air flows. The model A/C unit used in my Parkliner has a slide out washable filter, but no space to slide out. The unit has to be removed to clean the filter.

I already made and use insulation panels for this hatch and the Fantasic vent fan. Velcro strips hold these in place over the big openings in the roof. The vent fan has a plastic housing and so that frame is not a interior high heat source.

The aluminum frame of the escape hatch extends down into the interior. This frame exhibits the known quality of aluminum to be an excellent conductor of heat. So, I was looking for an exterior solution that would hold up to weather, sunlight and road wind.

[David B.]

When we first moved to Arizona (Phoenix area in August) we lived in a mobile home, and I went up on the metal roof to apply a product called Kool Seal. The heat was so bad that the flip flops I was wearing started to melt. After applying the Kool Seal (a white roof sealant/heat reflector), I was able to walk around on the roof in my bare feet.
Best of luck with your problem.
Dave & Paula

[hp in va]

Originally Posted by David B.

When we first moved to Arizona (Phoenix area in August) we lived in a mobile home, and I went up on the metal roof to apply a product called Kool Seal. The heat was so bad that the flip flops I was wearing started to melt. After applying the Kool Seal (a white roof sealant/heat reflector), I was able to walk around on the roof in my bare feet.
Best of luck with your problem.
Dave & Paula

Thanks for your suggestion. Draw back to Kool Seal is that it takes two different products (base and finish coats) that do not seem to come in smaller than 1 gallon cans. I would not need that much and these products are too costly just to toss. I will keep looking for a like product that comes in smaller amounts. Maybe the white roof tape would work??

[Stephen_Albers]

Very sage of you to notice your trailer heat leakage. This is extremely important if you gravitate toward 4-season operations and don't relish suffering in temperature extremes. My 4-season Casita modification features custom-built double pane glazed windows. Our test in the 108F Texas summer heat was that the air conditioner maintained comfortable 70F internal temperature cycled off and on by the thermostat. A hand placed on any window was unable to detect any heat coming through the window.

[mszabo]

Install a cover over the vent. Will reduce the heat and you can leave open when it rains

[Jon in AZ]

Since it’s an escape hatch, it’s probably larger than a standard cover. And of course, with a cover it could no longer be used as a means of egress.

[mszabo]

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...1&d=1585422779