heater - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-11-2018, 07:24 AM   #21
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
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You can get heated pet and livestock mats, they range in heat output from 40 watts to a max of 100 watts depending on the size of the mat. They lay flat on the floor, you can walk on top of them. No worries about broken glass. Nice foot warmer if you are camping on chilly days or you can even sit on them If something gets right next to a heated mat it won't be catching on fire. Not super cheap, but relatively safe, durable and meant for long hours of use in sometimes damp environments such as stables and kennels.

There are lots of choices being presented and among them there might the "one" that makes the most sense to the owner of the FGRV. Having choices is a grand thing
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:56 AM   #22
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Name: David
Trailer: in the market
Idaho
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Condensation occurs when warm moist air comes in contact with cold surfaces, cools below the dew point and releases its moisture to the surface. Is that right?

If that is so then by keeping the interior cold and dry would be the best solution to prevent dampness every where. The thing that makes cold dry air is an air conditioner.

If the interior of an RV is below freezing then there is no way it can get moldy.

On the other hand, the interior of every freezer I have ever owned has gotten frost covered at some point. This is because warm moist air keeps getting into it when the door is opened.

So it seems to me that the best possible solution to winter moisture in an RV would be a window A/C unit set to maximum cold and blowing outside air in past the cooling coils so that it was dehumidified before it came in. The dry cold air would pressurize the trailer slightly preventing warmer moister air from getting in elsewhere.

Just a thought.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:57 AM   #23
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Name: Fredrick
Trailer: Escape 21C
Tennessee
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Thumbs up Hi neighbor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger M View Post
After moving to Spring Hill TN from LA four years ago, a neighbor asked to look inside our Baby Bigfoot. Her first comment was, "it doesn't smell musty". Although mildly surprised I took that as a warning to watch the humidity here; not just in the trailer but all interior spaces.

However, I didn't do anything differently than when in LA other than keep our regular small Lasko ceramic heater on low throughout the cold season and open the doors and drawers. All vents and windows are shut, and we always keep a charged Eva-Dry dehumidifier inside. We've never had a problem with condensation, mold or odors, even after the HUMID spring through fall camping season.

We now live off Carters Creek just south of the Williamson/Maury county line - in the country-burbs, y'all.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

We're just a couple miles off the Big Bridge on the NT parkway..& our kids, who sometimes camp w us, are living down near the Goose Creek Bypass. You know the area I guess, LOL

BTW know any decent CGs in the Smokies areas that have water & electric hookups & are NOT KOAs right on the interstates? We're finding that many places are "primitive" and I have already had way too much "tenting time" in my life!!

SO far we have gone with winterizing the water stsyem, incl emptying the WH and filling all lines w RVAF, and putting a big bucket of Damp-Rid on the floor near the door for easy access. WE took out all linens and the 3" memory foam 'toppers' we made and then I raised the cushions up off their flat bases w several narrow pieces of 1x4" pine board to allow for air flow. Most cabinet doors are open as is the BR door and closet door. We hope this will do it. The trailer is on shore power so we can add a small heater, but I think that is not needed..so far. 22* here this am!!
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:10 AM   #24
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
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Originally Posted by mizterwizard View Post
...So it seems to me that the best possible solution to winter moisture in an RV would be a window A/C unit set to maximum cold and blowing outside air in past the cooling coils so that it was dehumidified before it came in. The dry cold air would pressurize the trailer slightly preventing warmer moister air from getting in elsewhere.

Just a thought.
Run the AC all winter? It would be cheaper to pack up and move to Arizona. Warm dry air beats cold dry air!
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:11 AM   #25
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
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At this time of year hookups might not include water to the site It is not unusual for them to stay open but also have the water shut off. Plan on calling ahead to verify if there is going to be water even if their website says they have full hookups. Seasonal exceptions do happen and a lot of RV websites don't get updated to reflect such changes.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:19 AM   #26
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by mizterwizard View Post
Condensation occurs when warm moist air comes in contact with cold surfaces, cools below the dew point and releases its moisture to the surface. Is that right?
....
Basically correct. But what makes the surfaces cold? And more to the point, what makes the surfaces cold enough for the air to release its moisture (the dew point)? A camper in storage is not fully air tight and will eventually have the same relative humidity as the outside air. But when that camper is closed up, the air is trapped and it only slowly mixes with the outside air, then as the outside temperature drops, the outside surfaces get cold and the now relativity more moist air in the camper causes condensation on those cold surfaces.

Colder air can hold less moisture, so replacing the air that gets warm during the day in the camper with the colder outside air at night reduces the moisture content and the likelihood of condensation. That is why so many people successfully avoid mold by keeping their camper unheated but well ventilated.

On the other hand, since warm air can hold more moisture, then heating the inside of the camper will reduce condensation on the surfaces that get colder.. to some extent. But if ventilation is not sufficient to avoid problems, then a dehumidifier is likely a better option than a heater (if above freezing).

Now if the camper is occupied then the water vapor given off by people makes this worse. Also a heater for comfort is logical.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:03 AM   #27
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Kustom Koach
British Columbia
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https://youtu.be/ipwet25T7Q8
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Old 11-12-2018, 03:07 PM   #28
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Name: Shelby
Trailer: Casita SD
Tennessee
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I got this little heater today at Walmart. It has two heat settings but the fan is constant. Not too loud. It warmed the trailer about 5 degrees in 5 minutes. I think the cylinder shape may be more stable than a tower. Not the Smokies but we like Bandy Creek campground in Big South Fork. Electric and water and nice showers. Plenty of hiking trails and dirt roads to explore. Also Indian Boundary campground off the Cherohala Skyway near Tellico Plains.
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