heating a 13' trailer with? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-24-2006, 11:16 AM   #1
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Trailer: 1975 Boler
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well, i recentyy picked up a 13' boler, and it has no insulation. i would like to heat this thing, and am asking the pros what the recommended heater is for this unit.
i have a black cat, and am quite sure it will not adequately heat the trailer, although i have not tested it.

i normally camp in 30* +- weather in the so cal desert, and sometimes mountains. i dont mind building the heater into the trailer.
my main question is... how many btu do you expect it would take to heat this thing/safely?

i am eyeing up the mr. heater buddy, or the big buddy.


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another i am considering is the olympian wave 6 catalytic heater.


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Olympian Wave 6

* 3200-5800 BTU adjustable output
* 1/4 lb./hr. fuel consumption
* 230 square feet of heated comfort (approx.)
* Size: 17 7/8" H x 12 13/16" W x 4" D
* Weight: 12 lbs
* Can be wall mounted vertically or horizontally
* Can be mounted recessed with optional kit.


do you have any other suggestions, or recommendations on this matter.
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Old 02-24-2006, 11:31 AM   #2
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Erik, there are as many ideas on how to heat these trailers as there are trailer owners. My first question would be how often you expect to need the heater? If you're talking about once a year that it gets down to 50* and you want to take the chill off, then the Mr. Buddy is probably appropriate. If you're talking about cold weather camping 50% of the time, then you'll definately want something that runs off your LP setup.

The catalytic heaters are excellent, provided that they're vented... just recognize that LP burning in a catalytic heater releases water vapor which will haunt you as condensation. A standard Dometic or Suburban furnace is probably the best at limiting the condensation while providing heat, but they have the drawback of using electricity for a forced air fan. The cat heaters heat essentially without using electricity (except for the auto-ignition feature). Unfortunately I don't know the BTU output of the various units, but any of the plumbed LP units ought to be sufficient to heat a 13'. You might be able to get those specs from new trailers on the Scamp and/or Casita websites for the size of furnaces they're installing in the new ones.

Good luck on your decision!

Roger
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Old 02-24-2006, 04:35 PM   #3
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Hi Erik, what is on the wall of your Boler? Is it bare fiberglass or a thin foam? Benny
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Old 02-24-2006, 04:43 PM   #4
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Hi Erik, what is on the wall of your Boler? Is it bare fiberglass or a thin foam? Benny
it is bare fiberglass.
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:52 PM   #5
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I suppose that someone ripped out the 3/16" thick Ensolite foam insulation that was originally in it...before heating the trailer in cold weather you may want to insulate the trailer at least with some thing like a kanga back carpet or something like Reflectix or whatever it`s called...without any insulation on the walls you`ll get condensation on the walls and have a moisture problem.....even with the insulated walls we still get condensation on the windows and window frames and that`s only in cool weather just from our breath......I sure someone else will jump in here with more and better ideas for you.... Benny
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Old 02-24-2006, 11:44 PM   #6
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We normally camp in hookup type campgrounds, and find that a ceramic heater is more than adequate to heat the trailer quietly and efficiently on the campgroud's nickle. Of course if' youre a boondocker, a catalytic heater would be the best answer. Good luck.
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Old 02-25-2006, 04:02 PM   #7
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I have been using a Buddy heater for the last 6wks. It works fine. While in Albuquerque the temps dropped to 7% and it did fine on High. You do need to have a vent/window open a crack or the low oxygen sensor will shut the heater off. I also got a fuel filter and an adapter hose for 20lb LP tank.

I picked up mine a Tractor Supply Company in Christiansburg,Va for about $70, plus filter and hose was another $30 or so. As Pete has said in this or another forum. A nice thing about these is you can place it outside on a cool night to warm the backside next to a fire and/or use the disposable tank to take it to the bathroom to warm things up.


The reason I selected this over the Big buddy is that I didn't want to have to put batteries in the other.

Good luck
A.
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Old 04-24-2006, 04:58 PM   #8
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I have been using a Buddy heater for the last 6wks. It works fine. While in Albuquerque the temps dropped to 7% and it did fine on High. You do need to have a vent/window open a crack or the low oxygen sensor will shut the heater off. I also got a fuel filter and an adapter hose for 20lb LP tank.

I picked up mine a Tractor Supply Company in Christiansburg,Va for about $70, plus filter and hose was another $30 or so. As Pete has said in this or another forum. A nice thing about these is you can place it outside on a cool night to warm the backside next to a fire and/or use the disposable tank to take it to the bathroom to warm things up.
The reason I selected this over the Big buddy is that I didn't want to have to put batteries in the other.

Good luck
A.
Andy, what you have described would be perfect for my boondocking wants!

I have one LP tank on the front of my camper and I only use if for my stove.
Would I need to add another tank on the front? How do you route the LP to the unit, underneath? Can I use the copper fittings and such that are likely still in the camper connected to the furnace?

I am thinking about having my furnace removed (yes, I shall offer it up to whom would like it ) and putting a unit like you described in it's place. Can you tell me the
model you purchased and the approximate size?

Wow, the price and output is just what I need. I'm so glad I found this thread!
Cheers!
Gigi
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:00 PM   #9
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Regarding propane supply to a Mr. Heater Buddy:
Quote:
...I have one LP tank on the front of my camper and I only use if for my stove.
Would I need to add another tank on the front? How do you route the LP to the unit, underneath? Can I use the copper fittings and such that are likely still in the camper connected to the furnace? ...
As I understand the information posted by Mr. Heater, both the Portable Buddy and Big Buddy are [b]supplied with high-pressure propane direct from a cylinder, either a disposable 1-lb screwed onto the heater or a larger bulk tank (like the one on the front of the trailer) at the end of a hose.

The supply to the stove in a trailer is low-pressure propane, controlled by a [b]regulator which is mounted near the tank, outside of the trailer.

I assume that the Mr. Heater units will not function properly if supplied with low-pressure propane, and need a direct high-pressure connection. To use the tank on the front would mean adding a tee fitting between the tank and regulator, then a hose or rigid piping from there right into the trailer, separate from the existing low-pressure piping. This is not my idea of a good plan, but others have done it - perhaps they have suggestions or corrections to my understanding.
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:29 AM   #10
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Eric we have been using a Olympian Wave 3 heater when dry camping and can recommend them. They are very safe, efficient and dependable. They are a little pricey but I have seen them on ebay lately for around $200 and worth every penny of that. They work off low pressure so they must be hooked-up after your pressure regulator. Our small wave 3 will cook us out of our 13ft Scamp which is insulated. We normally don't camp in temps lower than 35 degrees so the smallest Wave suits our needs. You may be able to get by with the 3 vs 6. The wave 6 will definitely work to heat a 13ft regardless of lack of insulation. We hang our unit from the wall and have a quick disconnect connection/hose. When not in use we stow the whole works in the closet.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:33 AM   #11
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Regarding propane supply to a Mr. Heater Buddy:

As I understand the information posted by Mr. Heater, both the Portable Buddy and Big Buddy are [b]supplied with high-pressure propane direct from a cylinder, either a disposable 1-lb screwed onto the heater or a larger bulk tank (like the one on the front of the trailer) at the end of a hose.

The supply to the stove in a trailer is low-pressure propane, controlled by a [b]regulator which is mounted near the tank, outside of the trailer.

I assume that the Mr. Heater units will not function properly if supplied with low-pressure propane, and need a direct high-pressure connection. To use the tank on the front would mean adding a tee fitting between the tank and regulator, then a hose or rigid piping from there right into the trailer, separate from the existing low-pressure piping. This is not my idea of a good plan, but others have done it - perhaps they have suggestions or corrections to my understanding.
Brian, I rather guessed that I should have to add another line. There is a fella that I take the Lovebug to that is very good whom I suspect shall be capable of doing this for me. I would strongly prefer to use the large container and add another than to deal with the small ones.

Thanks for the input, it's appreciated!


Evan, I hope you don't mind I tagged onto your thread! Your title is so perfect, I opted not to start another thread.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:01 AM   #12
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Gigi, It is best to route all Propane lines outside trailer if possible in case there is a leak. We went through tons of 1 lb disposable cylinders before building an exterior propane tree to hook up stoves, heaters etc. to a fullsize 20lb tank. Much cheaper and convenient. Everything is quick disconnect so hookup is easy. Picture of the smallest Olympian below, the wave 3. I'm pretty sure the smaller units will heat a 13ft egg even when you crack the windows for venting. We don't usually leave the heater going through the night and have not had that big a problem with condensation. We have used the little heater as an artificial campfire on those days when they don't allow camp fires. Works great for that!
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Old 04-26-2006, 09:45 AM   #13
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Gigi, It is best to route all Propane lines outside trailer if possible in case there is a leak. We went through tons of 1 lb disposable cylinders before building an exterior propane tree to hook up stoves, heaters etc. to a fullsize 20lb tank. Much cheaper and convenient. Everything is quick disconnect so hookup is easy. Picture of the smallest Olympian below, the wave 3. I'm pretty sure the smaller units will heat a 13ft egg even when you crack the windows for venting. We don't usually leave the heater going through the night and have not had that big a problem with condensation. We have used the little heater as an artificial campfire on those days when they don't allow camp fires. Works great for that!
Hi, Evan,
Thanks for the information. That is a good looking heater. I'll go online and see the dimensions. My preferance would be to have it installed in the same space as the existing furnace. And, another fella here is going to use my furnace so that's a win all around! There is outside access to the furnace space and would make good use of that odd space.

I see the tubes are rubber. I imagine I could run that under the trailer in a metal or plastic tubing, no? Or, could I use the same copper tubing, assuming it is in good condition, as the furnace?

This is a great start. I'm always cold and getting heat for this boondockerwannabe is veddy important!
Thanks, Evan!
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:48 PM   #14
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I see the tubes are rubber. I imagine I could run that under the trailer in a metal or plastic tubing, no? Or, could I use the same copper tubing, assuming it is in good condition, as the furnace?

This is a great start. I'm always cold and getting heat for this boondockerwannabe is veddy important!

Gigi, You can tie into the trailers existing copper tubing at the old furnace location and run that right up to the heater. We have a long rubber hose so we can position it inside as well as outside. There is a quick disconnect on the end of the hose for rapid hookups. The unit is around 12in X 12in.. There must be a couple feet infront of the heater, and 6in on all sides with the exception of the back which is zero clearance. These are the perfect heater for boondocking and as mentioned generate a lot of heat for those who like it warm.
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:02 PM   #15
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I see the tubes are rubber. I imagine I could run that under the trailer in a metal or plastic tubing, no? Or, could I use the same copper tubing, assuming it is in good condition, as the furnace?

This is a great start. I'm always cold and getting heat for this boondockerwannabe is veddy important!
Gigi, You can tie into the trailers existing copper tubing at the old furnace location and run that right up to the heater. We have a long rubber hose so we can position it inside as well as outside. There is a quick disconnect on the end of the hose for rapid hookups. The unit is around 12in X 12in.. There must be a couple feet infront of the heater, and 6in on all sides with the exception of the back which is zero clearance. These are the perfect heater for boondocking and as mentioned generate a lot of heat for those who like it warm.
Evan, thanks for all the great information! This does appear to be just what I need.
Thank you!
Gigi
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