Maintenance & Restoration

gordon2 · 08-01-2016, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carol H

...
As Gordon suggest taking to Hehr is a good idea as they may have a better suggestion but your correct the link provided and the suggestion made by Hehr to fix the window in the thread is in regards to a different window design (jalousie style windows) and not applicable as the frames are not at all the same type as what you are dealing with. ...

I was thinking more that Hehr windows in general are not intended to be totally water tight but instead are designed to have water drip through and out of engineered channels which are put in for that purpose. I could be wrong though!

Carol H · 08-01-2016, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordon2

I was thinking more that Hehr windows in general are not intended to be totally water tight but instead are designed to have water drip through and out of engineered channels which are put in for that purpose. I could be wrong though!

Nope you not wrong Gordon that is how most Hehr windows are designed to work.

But in the case of the type/style of the OP's window and ones Scamp used for a number of years in the side bathrooms, Hehr did not put any engineered channels for the water to exit. Once water gets into the inside lower track it has no way of exiting - unless the track fills right up and it spills over the edge of the frame and into the trailer. Thats actually how I first discovered mine had the same issue, walked into the bathroom one very rainy night and my feet got wet.

I do not think Hehr ever intended for this type of window to be put on the side of a curved trailer. It probable does not let any water in when mounted on a flat sided trailer.

CampyTime · 08-01-2016, 06:00 PM

I sent lady at Hehr all of my pics. She had no immediate answer for me on phone. Needs to see pics and do more research she said. I might just take it out and redo the butyl at some point but drilling the holes sounds like the only thing that will fix this issue as there's no place for the water to exit otherwise. I have DeWalt pilot point drill bits, but think I'd leave that to someone with more drill acumen than I. One slip and off she goes into the FG.

She's out of the office tomorrow but I already have a sneaking suspicion that I'm not going to get any answers from her.

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Triker · 08-01-2016, 07:07 PM

I got excellent Customer Service from Hehr. Yes, I waited while the representative did her research AND took a week of vacation. I felt that was fine as we then had multiple emails back and forth and all my questions were satisfactorily answered. Just saying...

CampyTime · 08-01-2016, 07:38 PM

That's great to hear Triker. I hope to experience the same.

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stevebaz · 08-02-2016, 12:57 PM

I'm sure the windows were designed to be installed vertically. Since the surface that the window is mounted is not vertical you going to have problems when the gasket gets old and no longer seals as good as it once did. Drains, and drilled holes used as drains help relieve the water that the seal leaks when it can no longer stop the intrusion. Its not like slider windows with exposed tracks with built in drains to relieve excess water. The more vertical you mount the window the better off you will be. My 1986 frosted stove top window is really bad in this respect as installed by the factory the frame channels water to the inside since the frame leans back towards the inside.

CampyTime · 08-03-2016, 08:22 AM

This all makes sense Carol and Steve. My gasket is in great shape although I did have to get black gasket adhesive last year to reglue it in place in spots. I assumed that was from water entry.

Today lady at Hehr is supposed to be getting back to me. I'll post if I hear anything.

Carol the holes you mention drilling...this would be in lower frame of the window itself correct? As in the window that cranks out?

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Donna D. · 08-03-2016, 09:08 AM

If you know the window is as sealed to the body as it's ever going to get and you don't want to drill holes, buy some EZ Gutter and place it over the top of the window. Leave enough room between the bottom of the gutter and the top of the window (1/2") so you can easily clean there.

Google is your friend when buying a EZ Gutter in smaller lengths.

Essential Products RV & Marine - EZE RV Gutters

CampyTime · 08-03-2016, 09:22 AM

What a novel idea! I will look this up Donna. Thank you!

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Carol H · 08-03-2016, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Today lady at Hehr is supposed to be getting back to me. I'll post if I hear anything.

Carol the holes you mention drilling...this would be in lower frame of the window itself correct? As in the window that cranks out?

I sadly do not have the trailer any longer to take a photo for you but I actually drilled through the lower frame that was attached to the trailer.

I know another party (Ron in BC) did the same and I found their post on it.

Scamp Front Bathroom Mod

In his post he has two photos - the lower photo is of the frame off the trailer side and he has placed a punch tool in the hole he drilled to show were he did it. That is how/where I did it as well. The photo refreshed my memory that I actually did need to go through 2 pieces of metal on the lower track to get the correct drainage.

Looking at your window Wendy its not clear to me if the frame on your trailer is the same as the one Ron and myself had though. Would think it would be somewhat similar though. As a note Ron's Scamp was a much newer model than mine was as well.

But as Donna says if drilling a hole is a concern than a stick on gutter above the window is a simpler fix.

But I would still pull the window out and reseal it to the trailer. As mentioned earlier when I pulled the one out of mine it was clear the factory had used very little between the frame and the window and I could see where some water had gotten between the trailers outside wall and the inside shower wall finish in the trailer. Not enough to damage the floor in the bathroom but had I left it it would have with time.

CampyTime · 08-03-2016, 03:31 PM

Gotcha Carol. I have to find a thread now for removing that window as this will be my maiden voyage for taking a window out. 😮

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Carol H · 08-03-2016, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Gotcha Carol. I have to find a thread now for removing that window as this will be my maiden voyage for taking a window out. 😮

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Pretty easy to do - from inside remove the screws holding the windows inside retaining frame in place and it will pop out. But I would make sure you have someone standing on the outside of the trailer to stop the window from simply falling out onto the ground if it has no sealant between the outside frame and the trailer to hold it in place with the retaining frame off.

CampyTime · 08-13-2016, 02:33 PM

As a wrap up I never heard from the lady at Hehr. At least not as of this date. So I went ahead and popped the window out and took quite a bit of time getting silicone off trailer. In the end used brake kleen and a pastic putty knife.

While window was out my friend drilled two, 1/8 inch holes where Carol suggested. We took out the factory foam type weatherstripping and laid in butyl tape. 2 layers thick all around and 1 more layer at the top of the window to try and get window to sit in hole a bit straighter and compensate for trailer curvature.

Cleaned up all around and washed the scamp. What a joy to wAtch that water run out my new weep holes and tracks are dry as a bone. Yee hah! I'll drink to that!

Thank you for all of your helpful suggextions6 photos and info. We be golden now.

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Carol H · 08-13-2016, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Cleaned up all around and washed the scamp. What a joy to wAtch that water run out my new weep holes and tracks are dry as a bone. Yee hah! I'll drink to that!

Always a good thing when a plan comes together!