Help Surfside hinges

[robeye]

This will be number three fiberglass trailer restore.. First I do not know the year of the surfside TM14 I just got.. Second I have a broken bottom door hinge.. Is there something that replaces this? Or do I be creative . ?

She's a beauty ... someone got handy with green paint ! And the kitchen is removed .. thank goodness these trailers use wood cabinets.


Got some work to do ...But I towed this one home.. not so with the Boler and the Scamp..

[Campingbliss]

Wow, quite the project, and what’s with the army green paint over the windows? This camper definitely needs to be saved.

[robeye]

It's not over the windows ..but the frames for sure. I do think they were trying to hid in the woods.. really.

[robeye]

Originally Posted by Campingbliss

Wow, quite the project, and what’s with the army green paint over the windows? This camper definitely needs to be saved.

Yes I've decided that this is a complete strip down restore. Frame off windows out kinda restore. I did a temporary fix on the door hinge and it looks to me like any good flat marine grade 6" hinge will work and look good too. When I start the work in a month I'll start a new thread.

[Old Macdonalds]

I purchased some nice hinges from Lee Valley as recommended by another forum user. They are chrome plated and called "Heavy Die cast hinges" on the site. Haven't put them on yet but they will definitely be an improvement over the nasty strap hinges that the previous owner put on. Ours is a 76 surfside and is also a ground up restoration. New axle is our next purchase. Good luck.

[robeye]

Originally Posted by Old Macdonalds

I purchased some nice hinges from Lee Valley as recommended by another forum user. They are chrome plated and called "Heavy Die cast hinges" on the site. Haven't put them on yet but they will definitely be an improvement over the nasty strap hinges that the previous owner put on. Ours is a 76 surfside and is also a ground up restoration. New axle is our next purchase. Good luck.

Thanks.. I would love to see photos. I'm always interested in what others are doing. Is there a reason you are replacing the axle ? Although it doesn't say it's believed ours is a 76 too. I have no papers for it.

[Old Macdonalds]

We are replacing our axle because I believe it is the original which makes it over forty years old. The electric brakes have been disconnected and the ride is really rough so the rubber inside the torsion axle is probably shot. It also appears a little "bendy" although it might be an illusion. Hard to tell when you lay on your back to look at it. I want to take it off the frame as well because the frame has already been an issue. The previous owner has had it repaired at the forward bend and I had the bumper repaired. I'd like to be sure there are no microfractures, make any repairs and clean it up so while it is apart, a new axle is an easy install. I also have some sagging in the egg, the door doesn't align properly and some cracking at the wheel wells. Not drastic, but enough to concern me as to the frame/axle integrity. Ours was painted a nasty battleship grey but hubby has been sanding away so we can repaint. It is gutted and I have the floor out for rot by the door. New floor is cut out but frame first, then floor so everything lines up nice. Also have been reinforcing the roof for sag, and moved/replaced the vent. Have glassed some larger holes and put in a cargo door on one side. Once the new axle is in, I will rewire all the exterior lights and brakes and install the remote brake system. Next step though is to shore up the roof for the winter months. We haven't room to store it indoors so it is under a shelter in the yard to keep the snow off.
Not sure if yours is a 76. Ours has no porch light so maybe that was an added feature later on. Ours has two decals that got painted over just left of the door toward the bottom which I can't read but maybe if you also have them they can tell you something about the trailer.

[robeye]

Lot's to talk about... We have the same things going on.. and list of fixin.. First the frame And axle. yes the axle should have a slight bow up in the middle.. not an illusion. Yes after 40 + years everything is suspect. I have been under my Surf side and have seen nothing of concern. But I will still pull the frame out if for nothing else than a good paint job.. I have replaced one frame and rebuilt one other on Bolers. In both cases new axles were replaced.

http:://www.robeye.ca/1973-boler-trailer-2-the-frame/

The Boler new frame
http://www.robeye.ca/79-acorn-restore-page-2-the-frame/
The Acorn /Scamp frame
Two big problems with both these frames.. #1 they rely on the 3/4 glassed floor to add strength to the frame. Not good over time. And the weight saving ( maybe 100 lbs) is not worth it. You will notice I beefed both frame up. My frame for the boler has traveled thousands of Kms now in three years, and passed Alberta inspection. #2 is the method for attaching the body to the frame. Screws ! into the top of the box frame. Guaranteed to rust.. and rust the frame too. I use tabs welded to the outside and bolt the body down with galvanized carriage bolts and large washers. This way you can easily keep them tight.

The roof in all these fiberglass trailers needs the cabinets to support it. So when you remove the cabinets be sure to support the roof. Mine is sagged too. That outside light is NOT factory.. butt ugly too.. It's florescent too and will never work..

[Old Macdonalds]

Roof sag was snow load as it is in the center section around the vent. Am glassing in reinforcement, have glassed in the old vent hole and reinforced around the new vent hole with 1/2 inch red cedar kerfed to take the slight roof curve and accommodate the after market roof vent flange which I have cut down somewhat. The cedar will be glassed in to seal from water infiltration. Did the same around my cargo opening. It had cabinets when we bought it that I have removed and the roof has been supported with ratcheting cargo poles. There were no upper cabinets or pole supporting the roof on the kitchen side. Now I need to look at something more permanent. Have been looking at post "Surfside Saga" as they did a ground up reno. Want to put in a front dinette and slightly larger permanent bed. Also have an idea to rig up a slide out air conditioner. Have seen under bench ones but everything I took in building science tells me that cold air needs to move top down. Since roof units are a bad idea, I plan on a side hatch and a unit on glides that can be pushed out when needed and brought back into the trailer while traveling. I have seen similar mods on line. Have changed all exterior lights to LED and will be wiring a third brake light because we have a bike rack that might make lights harder to see. Very slow going. Might work on the cabinetry in the house this winter.

[Old Macdonalds]

You will find that the egg is attached by six bolts through the frame, not screws. I have ground mine off and bought elevator bolts to replace them. The body sag that concerns me is some bulge at the belly band between the door and the window. That and the cracks at the wheel well are what make me wonder about the frame. Have to finish building cribs so I can support four corners, get some height and have a better look.

[robeye]

Originally Posted by Old Macdonalds

You will find that the egg is attached by six bolts through the frame, not screws. I have ground mine off and bought elevator bolts to replace them. The body sag that concerns me is some bulge at the belly band between the door and the window. That and the cracks at the wheel well are what make me wonder about the frame. Have to finish building cribs so I can support four corners, get some height and have a better look.

Sounds good.. and yes these are concerns. I can hardly wait to get going.. I will know more once I too remove the frame. The long bolts through the frame is ok.. And if you can't weld then that should work.. I do not like holes in the box tube frame.. potential for a crack. And water to get in.


Are you referring to this floor just in front of the wheels ?

[Old Macdonalds]

The bolts that attach the egg to the frame are from the factory and they don't go through the tubing but rather the L- beam cross members. I was just telling you because I know Bolers have screws through the floor. This is much easier and I chose elevator bolts because they have flat heads like a giant washer. However the Surfside is a true egg from a pontoon style mold so the floor shown in your picture is the actual fiberglass shell. With your boler the plywood sits directly on the frame and catches the lip of the egg. The Surfside has an inside plywood floor that is attached to that fiberglass "floor" and the whole works is bolted down with two bolts just ahead of the door, two between the wheel wells and two in the dinette section. I did not remove the dinette floor only the floor forward of that. It is not the easiest thing to do peeling it off the shell. I have a couple of small oops! holes to mend before setting the interior floor in. The pontoon style is to allow water to drain into the pontoons and out via weep holes. You can see this in the corners which should be cut at angles and open to the space below The floor itself glassed to the egg where it meets the sides. After forty odd years though there was damage to the plywood by the door where it is also supposed to be attached to the edge of the threshold with fiberglass. it was detached and crumbling. in order to maintain the integrity of the floor I chose to replace the plywood all the way across.

[robeye]

Yes.. makes sense now.. Today I've learned lots. Talked to Rolf from Calgary ..he's working on his too.. I'll be replacing the plywood on the floor too..

[Old Macdonalds]

Looked at you blogs of your frame builds. I envy your welding ability. Was looking at the torsion axle ends from Princess Auto but not sure if I could use them on this trailer or if it would need extra ears welded for bolting on. Haven't looked too closely yet but would value an opinion. Carpentry is my thing so the frame will have to be sent out if necessary. However, give some serious thought to fish plating where the frame bends up at the front. This area is notorious for failure. Better to beef it up before, than try to monkey with it when the shell is back on. My next magical trick will be to create a fitted template to put in supports for the sides and to shape the cabinets to curve of the egg.

[robeye]

Again..these are good things to consider. Those axles from PA do work.. but require some cutting and extra framing.. You can not weld on the axle where the torsion fits together for fear of damage to the rubber internal parts. I will have to carefully look at my options when I have the frame on my work table. And while there... most likely the fish plates will happen . I have seen examples of the frames collapsing to the ground at those bends. As for the cabinets.. I have ordered a contour gauge. That should help with the curvy fit .

[Scott S.]

I have the same trailer. got new hinger 10 years ago at Lee Valley. not the exact hole pattern but they work and look great.

[robeye]

Yes.. Nice to see a common product used. Aluminum hinges are not a great idea.. Aluminum does not play well with other metals... So I too went with stainless marine hinges. Not worried about the existing screw holes.. All will be glassed back in. Found these nice ones.

I treat these trailers like a boat ..all fittings and screws or bolts will be stainless.

[Scott S.]

let me know when you are ready for the logos. I created a vector file for all TM-14 decals. PM me an email address and I'll send you the file. just take it to your local sign shop so they can cut it out of vinyl for you.

[robeye]

Originally Posted by Scott S.

let me know when you are ready for the logos. I created a vector file for all TM-14 decals. PM me an email address and I'll send you the file. just take it to your local sign shop so they can cut it out of vinyl for you.

Wow I will. I very much want the exterior to be back to factory.

[HordaksArmchair]

I'm just curious on any info regarding an axle for my 1977 Triple E Surfside. Are there any models of axle that are a perfect match? Where should I look for the best deal?