Help with Scamp VIN

[FRANK MOLIS]

Hi...I bought an older Scamp 13 footer a few months ago with no title, no registration, no exact knowledge of year, and supposedly no VIN number. I was told by the previous owner it was a 1970 something. After grinding on the hitch to prep for paint, I found the VIN, well most of it. What I found is:

1S7-R1310-8-??0- 10669


I cannot read the two most important numbers in the VIN, the two ??'s which are the two of three numbers which tell the date of the trailer, they are covered by a splash of weld metal or something.

I was told by Scamp the year is at least a 1982 because 1982 was the year Scamp went to a 17 digit VIN.

Does anyone out there have an older 1980's Scamp that has a date code that ends in 0, and what year is your trailer?

If your date code ends in a zero and mine does as well, maybe my trailer is the same years as yours?

Thanks for any help.

Frank

[David Morgan]

Hi...I bought an older Scamp 13 footer a few months ago with no title, no registration, no exact knowledge of year, and supposedly no VIN number. I was told by the previous owner it was a 1970 something. After grinding on the hitch to prep for paint, I found the VIN, well most of it. What I found is:

1S7-R1310-8-[b]??0- 10669


I cannot read the two most important numbers in the VIN, the two ??'s which are the two of three numbers which tell the date of the trailer, they are covered by a splash of weld metal or something.

I was told by Scamp the year is at least a 1982 because 1982 was the year Scamp went to a 17 digit VIN.

Does anyone out there have an older 1980's Scamp that has a date code that ends in 0, and what year is your trailer?

If your date code ends in a zero and mine does as well, maybe my trailer is the same years as yours?

Thanks for any help.

Frank

...

If it was stamped into the frame rails it is possible to view the numbers even if they were ground smooth. Crime labs are often able to lift ground off vins and serial numbers. I believe it is a type of mangaflux testing. Your state patrols office may be able to assist you in finding and rebuilding that Vin number. I had it dun for a car that I bought a number of years ago at auction. Another thought is, that if it is only the date code you are missing. The State Patrol may be able to look it up, based on the fact that the rest of the number at some point would be unique to your trailer. At some point it had a license and a title. They can usually find it. At that point they can issue a lost tittle and generate you a new registration. In Washington it costs about $15 to apply for a lost tittle on a trailer. And it is a relatively simple process.

Hope this helps!

[FRANK MOLIS]

Thanks, but the problem is not that the numbers have been ground smooth, but weld metal has been placed on top of the two numbers I cannot read. I though about grinding the weld metal down smooth to get to the numbers under it, but I do not want to accidentally erase the numbers around it I can read in the process.

Frank

[David Morgan]

Thanks, but the problem is not that the numbers have been ground smooth, but weld metal has been placed on top of the two numbers I cannot read. I though about grinding the weld metal down smooth to get to the numbers under it, but I do not want to accidentally erase the numbers around it I can read in the process.

Frank

Do you think it is slag splatter that dripped on it? I would try grinding it. I would take it to the DMV and see if they can figure it out. They have some pretty cool computer databases these days. Once they figure it out they can re stamp it for you!

If it is slag you might be able to knock it off with a good chisel. If it is solid weld it will be hardened into the substrate. Chiping it off will likely ruin any chance of lifting it with magnaflux. So if you think it is actually weld gently grind it with a drimmel and keep it cool... (I think it is called magaflux I may have the wrong term here.)

[FRANK MOLIS]

Do you think it is slag splatter that dripped on it? I would try grinding it. I would take it to the DMV and see if they can figure it out. They have some pretty cool computer databases these days. Once they figure it out they can re stamp it for you!

If it is slag you might be able to knock it off with a good chisel. If it is solid weld it will be hardened into the substrate. Chiping it off will likely ruin any chance of lifting it with magnaflux. So if you think it is actually weld gently grind it with a drimmel and keep it cool... (I think it is called magaflux I may have the wrong term here.)

David. Its solid and smooth, with no chance of just knocking it off. I will bring it to DMV as is to see if they can figure it out. I am really just happy to find what I did after thinking there was no VIN at all after the PO welded on the new coupler.

Picture
http://picasaweb.google.com/Faucetsunlimit...658435380471266

In the picture it shows the 0-8-"blob"0-10669 although it really hard to see any numbers in the picture, I can see them at home with a magnifying glass.

Thanks again,
Frank

[David Morgan]

David. Its solid and smooth, with no chance of just knocking it off. I will bring it to DMV as is to see if they can figure it out. I am really just happy to find what I did after thinking there was no VIN at all after the PO welded on the new coupler.

Picture
http://picasaweb.google.com/Faucetsunlimit...658435380471266

In the picture it shows the 0-8-"blob"0-10669 although it really hard to see any numbers in the picture, I can see them at home with a magnifying glass.

Thanks again,
Frank

Yeah I am glad you found that too. It took me some time to find the Vin on mine as well. The stamps don't seem very deep and once its painted it's easy to miss. I have seen a lot of posts where the Vin was not readable due to damage. I bet you have uncovered enough of it that the DMV can figure it out for you! Congrats on your Find!

BTW is this your first Glass Egg? If it is Welcome to the Family!

[FRANK MOLIS]

Yeah I am glad you found that too. It took me some time to find the Vin on mine as well. The stamps don't seem very deep and once its painted it's easy to miss. I have seen a lot of posts where the Vin was not readable due to damage. I bet you have uncovered enough of it that the DMV can figure it out for you! Congrats on your Find!

BTW is this your first Glass Egg? If it is Welcome to the Family!

Yes, Its my first one. Picked it up for $500.00 on Craigslist. It needed a lot of work, which I'm in the process of doing little by little. So far, I have replaced the axle, the roof vent, and now I just want to get a new coat of paint on the frame. I'm done with the hard stuff for the most part, so it will be time for the easier fun stuff. Thanks for the welcome.

Frank

[Roy in TO]

Have you seen the SCAMP VIN decoder?

[Roy in TO]

Frank,
Do you have any pictures to post? Sometimes things such as windows and interior finishes can give some hints to the year.

[FRANK MOLIS]

Frank,
Do you have any pictures to post? Sometimes things such as windows and interior finishes can give some hints to the year.

Roy...I'll try and get some pictures up Sunday or Monday. I have seen the decoder, but since 2 of my numbers are covered/destroyed it does not do me much good.....Thanks for the help

[Donna D.]

We can do some sleuthing by knowing what is in the trailer. For instance Rat Fur was applied to the interior walls after the mid-1987s... do you have rat fur or elephant skin in your Scamp?

If you have the original axle, you MIGHT look to see if the data plate is still on the axle. The one on my 1988 Scamp was dead center when viewed from the back. It was an Al-Ko. Perhaps the manufacturer of the axle could tell you when the axle was made... that MIGHT help too.

Does it have a license plate?

Before you go to DMV, make sure you have all the ownership papers you can get.... like a Bill of Sale and any written history... old bills of sale from prior sales. You don't want DMV thinking the trailer has been stolen.....

[Otto]

The 8 is the check number [just a filler]. Since yours is a '82 what you are missing is "E" a "0" if you have the plain interior or a "1" if you have the deluxe wood interior. The '0' is the first number of your 6 digit serial number.

[Roy in TO]

The 8 is the check number [just a filler]. Since yours is a '82 what you are missing is "E" a "0" if you have the plain interior or a "1" if you have the deluxe wood interior. The '0' is the first number of your 6 digit serial number.

Frank sent me a small copy of the picture. We ran it through some photo editing software. From the spacing, it does not look to be a "0" so I think it is a "1" for wood interior. He said he'd take some better pictures later. Hopefully he can send me a full sized one of his best and we will see how much we can tweak it to confirm.

[FRANK MOLIS]

We can do some sleuthing by knowing what is in the trailer. For instance Rat Fur was applied to the interior walls after the mid-1987s... do you have rat fur or elephant skin in your Scamp?

If you have the original axle, you MIGHT look to see if the data plate is still on the axle. The one on my 1988 Scamp was dead center when viewed from the back. It was an Al-Ko. Perhaps the manufacturer of the axle could tell you when the axle was made... that MIGHT help too.

Does it have a license plate?

Before you go to DMV, make sure you have all the ownership papers you can get.... like a Bill of Sale and any written history... old bills of sale from prior sales. You don't want DMV thinking the trailer has been stolen.....

Thanks Donna...I was wondering why I did not have the famous rat fur I have read so much about on this great forum. I have the elephant skin, so that helps with the age.

So now I know from you, it pre 1987, and from Scamp it after 1982 because it has the 17 digit VIN.

I replaced the old axle a month or two ago with a new Dexter, and do not have the old one any longer. There was no information on the old one, trust me I looked. It would have helped greatly if it did when I had to order the new axle.

No plates, registration, or title. I did not think I had a VIN until I finally found it the other day. 1S7-R1310-8-??0- 10669. I called Scamp, they could not help with the missing two digits.

Will bring it to MVD soon, still need to get new taillights put on and wired. I do have a bill of sale, and will bring that. That is the only piece of paper I got with it. The PO had nothing more than that. No paperwork of any kind inside the Scamp, I've been through everything.

So, I went from thinking 1970's something from info from the previous owner, but now have it narrowed down to 1982 to 1987.

Thanks all

[Roy in TO]

Frank, have you looked at the ID plates on any of the components? Fridge, stove, furnace etc? sometimes they have a date of manufacture that can help narrow down the year.
What about the FMVSS sticker?

[FRANK MOLIS]

The 8 is the check number [just a filler]. Since yours is a '82 what you are missing is "E" a "0" if you have the plain interior or a "1" if you have the deluxe wood interior. The '0' is the first number of your 6 digit serial number.

Otto....I'm not sure of the age because the part of the VIN which shows the age is damaged.

Here is a picture.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Faucetsunlimit...310668498173954

Thanks
Frank

[Donna D.]

Any appliances in the trailer Frank? Maybe you can get closer by checking with the manufacturers when a particular appliance was made. Most have a serial number .... thinking out loud here!

[FRANK MOLIS]

Roy and Donna...No such luck. No appliances. No sink, stove, water tank, ice box, propane tank, or battery. It was pretty stripped when I bought it, but for $500.00 I couldn't expect much. I'll try and get some pictures of the inside up here soon.

Roy...Not sure what a FMVSS sticker is.

Thanks
Frank

[FRANK MOLIS]

[Roy in TO]

Not sure what a FMVSS sticker is.

The one that says the trailer meets the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards on the date of manufacture. Typically they are by the door, on early models may have been on the front curbside corner or tongue.