hitch problem

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We had a similar rattle, and for a few months I could not, for the life of me, figure out what was rattling. Finally eliminated everything I could think of except the actual hitch. There is always a bit of inherent sloppyness where the hitch fits into the receiver, maybe 1/16''. Too small to insert any kind of padding.

So I emailed the hitch manufacturer, Draw-tite. They knew exactly what I was describing. Sent me free of charge a ''J-Pin'' (Stabilizing Pin with Lock) to replace the ordinary draw-bar pin. The J-Pin clamps down tight, utilizing the second hole on the Draw-tite receiver, making the receiver and hitch seem like they're welded together. I don't know whether other brand hitches have the second hole, but you could certainly drill one. The J-Pin also has an integral keyed lock, in case you want to use it.

Solved our rattle problem.:)


http://www.draw-tite.com/
(Search for ''J-Pin'' or ''Stabilizing Pin with Lock'')

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Orginally posted by Pete Dumbleton

Or make some skinny wedges and drive 'em in and forget about pulling out the bar for the season.

Thanks Pete, that's something I hadn't thought of. If wedges get rid of the symptoms, I can be pretty confident that's were the problem is. If they don't, I move onto the next most logical thing, the ball and coupler, which were my first suspects. I've checked both and they seem OK but hooking up and having someone watch as I move back and forth to see what's happening might tell me more. As for the wedges, if they work it would be a temporary fix but should buy me time until I get my new truck with new hitch. Thanks again...

Rich

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Orginally posted by George Cathcart

So I emailed the hitch manufacturer, Draw-tite. They knew exactly what I was describing. Sent me free of charge a ''J-Pin'' (Stabilizing Pin with Lock) to replace the ordinary draw-bar pin. The J-Pin clamps down tight, utilizing the second hole on the Draw-tite receiver...

My receiver's not a Draw-tite with a second hole. If a loose fit between drawbar and receiver turns out to be the problem, I could probably drill the second hole and try the J-Pin, though I doubt Draw-tite would send me one for free...wouldn't hurt to ask I guess. If the shims that Pete suggested solve the problem, I'd be more likely to go with that temporary fix until I decide what to buy in the way of a new truck, and pass the problem off to someone else. Actually, son-in-law #2 would like to buy my truck and as he'd not likely be towing anything larger than a utility trailer, if that even, the "problem" shouldn't be a problem for him.

Rich

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Suz and Chester: I modified my Reese receiver (it was a "one size fits a lot of trucks" model and stuck out too far and hung too low. Now it sits higher and much further under the truck; between that change and shortening my ballmount/hitchbar/stinger, it's hard to whack a shin. It's also hard to get up into my truck bed to retrieve something, as I used to step on the crosspiece which is now covered by the bumper.

I also enlarged the hole in the hitch pin itself so I could insert a padlock.

Now that I've moved my spare tire/wheel to the front bumper from under the rear, I can actually insert the ball mount from the front and lock it so nothing sticks out.

Pete and Rats

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Hi Pete&rats
Sounds good.I found I still like to remove mine each time,due to the fact that they dissapear pretty fast.The lock idea I like.Hey buddy post a photo of lock, please.:)

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Pete, sounds like the way you reconfigured yours is really great. Unfortunately, on mine, it is where it is and has no place else to go. That's okay, it works for me.

Ches - you can buy locking pins at Wal-Mart or just about anywhere they selling hitch stuff. There are several different kinds, but I don't remember if they have a 'J' like George was talking about.