Maintenance & Restoration

GMike A · 04-29-2018, 08:56 AM

I just pulled out my defective but old H20 propane heater and replacing with a electric/propane model of same dimensions.[SW6DE]. What a bear pulling it out with all the sillycone they put around it and around the frame too. Took a long time to get it out. I hope the new one lasts a long time BUT I am thinking instead of riveting it back in is to use the threaded inserts and Butyl tape in place of the DAP. My logic is the tape will stay soft and some what pliable and the inserts will allow me to use a 6-32 or 10-24 bolt. The current rivet holes are enlarged just a tad from the original and maybe it would not allow the proper spread tension with a new rivet? I took the seat off and attacked it from the backside otherwise I would still be out there. Casita used rivets into the sides of the frame insert to hold to the main body. [not knocking their construction techniques but added additional time to get those freed up].
Any rate has anyone used the B tape for that purpose? I do have the DAP 600% expansion sealer I could use and go back to the original installation style. Just hope this one lasts 17 years too.

Mike

gordon2 · 04-29-2018, 09:12 AM

I took my water heater out a few weeks ago. In typical Scamp fashion they siliconed the perimeter of the outside frame but they also used butyl under the frame flange. You should use butyl regardless, with the silicone dressing-up probably optional. I have replaced a few things that were riveted in place (shore power and city water), and used small bolts with washers and/or 1/8 inch plywood backing and nylock nuts. I think that is a fine way to go, just a little more money. I used butyl in both cases. Silicone in one but not the other.

Eddie Longest · 04-29-2018, 10:03 AM

I did the same water heater swap last year. I added a relay and changed out the control panel so you can turn on the 115V WH section from inside the cabin. You can add this function by only running 1 extra 12V control wire from the control panel to the water heater.
Relay: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...55-T9AP1D52-12
Panel:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Eddie

GMike A · 04-29-2018, 10:13 AM

Thanks for the input. Eddie I had purchased a 12vdc 30 amp relay and am going to remote control it also. I saw another post elsewhere where the person mounted the switch panel over on the sink next to the pump switch. So I also bought some 6 pin M/F molex connectors and I have an old trailer wire kit with the wires already attached to each other. Going to make up a long jumper and run it around to the sink side. I also bought a Single TL fuse holder and box to put in series with the element and at the same time I am putting in the shoreline power outlet and get rid of the wire. I Have heard of some people getting that wire tangled up with the water heater wires and disconnecting something as its shoved in or pulled out. Might as well since the seat is off and everything is accessible. thanks all for validating my thoughts. Mike