Hot Water Issue - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-25-2021, 05:32 PM   #1
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Name: Kim
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Hot Water Issue

When the bypass valve is not activated (in the vertical position) no water comes out of the hot faucets. When itís bypassed we get cold water out of the hot water faucets. The hot water heater works but just doesnít want to come through the pipes. Any ideas how to fix?
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Old 09-25-2021, 05:52 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by kcarver View Post
When the bypass valve is not activated (in the vertical position) no water comes out of the hot faucets. When it’s bypassed we get cold water out of the hot water faucets. The hot water heater works but just doesn’t want to come through the pipes. Any ideas how to fix?
No fix needed, what you describe is normal.
Both faucet valves share a common outlet, so unless the cold side is completely closed it will bleed through and allow water to come out the hotside.
I use this method to winterize by holding my hand over the faucet outlet , opening both valves with the pump on, thereby back flushing the hot water lines into the tank on which the drain is left open.
If you make sure that the hot side valve is closed you can even use the cold side with an empty hot water tank.
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Old 09-25-2021, 05:53 PM   #3
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First. What brand and model of trailer are you talking about?

It would help to know that.
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Old 09-25-2021, 05:56 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
First. What brand and model of trailer are you talking about?

It would help to know that.
Good point, Glenn. I made the unfounded assumption that it was a Scamp... OOPS!
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Old 09-25-2021, 06:21 PM   #5
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It’s a Casita
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Old 09-25-2021, 06:39 PM   #6
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While you are waiting for an answer, go to User CP ( see top of pic ) and fill in the information for your trailer, etc.
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Old 09-25-2021, 07:52 PM   #7
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Back to the original question…You said nothing comes out the hot water faucet when the bypass valve is vertical. Remember, your description of a vertical handle is relative to the orientation of the line. Perpendicular to the line is closed…parallel is open. You want the perpendicular position to force water through the water heater tank.

There is no spitting or gurgling coming out? If there is some air spitting out, you may have too much air built up in the water heater, acting like a dam. By opening the relief valve on the heater, you can vent the air while filling the tank. Then water should flow smoothly. If absolutely nothing is coming out of the faucet, there may be a physical break or blockage in the tank or lines bypassed by the valve.
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Old 09-25-2021, 08:43 PM   #8
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One final point. Bypasses typically use cheap three way valves. My 40 year experience in the petrochemical industry, I found three way valves to be very unreliable. And those where expensive ones costing well over $1,000 each.

You didnít mention age of your unit. Take a picture and post.
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Old 09-26-2021, 03:57 PM   #9
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Name: Kim
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Thanks everyone for your contributions. Come to find out the Check Valve where the hot water comes out of the how water heater must have been stuck. We drained the HW tank, and took the cap off the check valve and took a tie wrap and just poked inside of it and got the sping mechanism to work. Works great now. It was in storage for over a year, so that's probably why it was stuck.
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Old 09-28-2021, 06:05 PM   #10
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Generally, a few judicious raps with a crescent wrench or hammer on the culprit check valve will, (while the system is pressurized,) will usually cause the lime and calcium deposits that have built-up on the valve's seat to release the inner check valve without the need to disassemble the check valve itself. Works 95% of the time.
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Old 10-03-2021, 05:37 AM   #11
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Thanks. If it happens again, we'll try that first.
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