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05-28-2015, 05:49 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Morgan
Trailer: Surfside
Manitoba
Posts: 4
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How do I add an outlet - Surfside TM-14
Looking to add an additional power outlet in my 1977 Surfside.
Any tricks or do I have to do a complete upgrade? It appears to be a fiddle proof box
Help!
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Surfside Morgan
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05-28-2015, 06:47 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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It sounds like you need to find an electrician for an hour's work. 120 VAC is nothing to dabble in without some degree of background experience.
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05-29-2015, 10:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Surf-Side
Manitoba
Posts: 284
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I would continue the cicuit from an existing outlet if the converter has only one circiut , however as the other Bob stated you need someone with electical knowhow to do the job , it is not a project to do by trial and error.
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05-29-2015, 11:46 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 373
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Start from main panel. Choose proper gauge for wire that fit your outlet's rating. If there is still room @ main panel, install proper fuse for your outlet, if not, you might use proper rating in-line fuse. Run line as straight as possible with secure clamps. You could start from outlet back to panel vice versa. Do not forget 120VAC has Blk as hot, Wht as common, Grn as ground/chasssis. it's very simple. Do everything with main cct breaker at OFF position and using volmeter, VAC scale....Just IMO.
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05-29-2015, 08:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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If you do attempt to add the new wiring, etc. Please remember to unplug the trailer's power cord from the 120 volt power outlet!t!
if you have no electrical wiring experance, many times it's cheaper (and much safer) to hire someone qualified to do the work.
You might drive around a area where new homes are being built, and ask one of the younger electrical workers if they would like to do the work for you, or know someone that would. Everyone likes a little extra cash money!
Bill
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05-29-2015, 09:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Too young to smoke.
Remember no matter how old the trailer is it's too young to smoke. Let along burn.
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Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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05-29-2015, 09:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
It sounds like you need to find an electrician for an hour's work. 120 VAC is nothing to dabble in without some degree of background experience.
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Why is 120 VAC any different than 12 VDC when it comes to wiring trailers. They can both start a fire quite easily.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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05-29-2015, 10:12 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
Why is 120 VAC any different than 12 VDC when it comes to wiring trailers. They can both start a fire quite easily.
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Very true statement....thank goodness for fuses
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05-29-2015, 11:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave
Very true statement....thank goodness for fuses 
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Dave have you ever had any dealings with UL? Anything that has user replaceable fuses the fuses are replaced with a large wire. Protection has to be someplace else. We buried fuses in transformers, making them non-user replaceable. Fuses are only good if they haven't been replaced with something larger or a piece of wire. If I was buying a used trailer the first thing would do is make sure all the fuses are of the proper value.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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05-29-2015, 11:29 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Most people here and other RV forums seem to think that because the only way you can get shocked with 12 VDC is with your tongue across both terminals it's ok to play with make mistakes. Where 120 VAC you can get shocked. You can mess up either if you don't know what you're doing.
I just looked for information on automobile fires. At least 24% according to one study are electrical. After looking at the causes of Class 8 truck fires, I think that's an under estimate. FYI I had to prove more than once our product didn't cause a truck fire, but the cause was still electrical.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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05-30-2015, 02:56 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
Dave have you ever had any dealings with UL? Anything that has user replaceable fuses the fuses are replaced with a large wire. Protection has to be someplace else. We buried fuses in transformers, making them non-user replaceable. Fuses are only good if they haven't been replaced with something larger or a piece of wire. If I was buying a used trailer the first thing would do is make sure all the fuses are of the proper value.
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Byron, maybe I should have also said breakers but I was referring to 12v in my comment. I do have some electrical experience through five years in the military. Certainly less than you have as I have easily seen from your postings. You really have to remember that the questions here are for simple 110 and 12v trailer systems. Not 3 phase 4000KV commercial systems with hidden fuses. Using the proper wire size and fuses/breakers for the circuits you need for the end unit is all it takes. I do agree with you 100% with buying an older trailer to check fuses for circuit value but depending on the condition/age I would probably replace/upgrade the wiring also. No telling what past owners scabbed in or how many slices you'll find. BTW, I have redone a number of my houses, all have been signed off by inspectors for gas, electrical and plumbing. UL dealings...none other than what was in code books that were current at the time. Residential wiring is pretty easy.
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