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08-26-2015, 07:42 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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How test hot water heater for cracks?
We just purchased a 1988 Bigfoot 17b that had been sitting for 13 years. The owner mentioned I'd have to replace the hot water heater. I noticed the floor near the water heater is stained from water, right in the front drivers side corner. I'm thinking it might be cracked. How should I test it? Remove it so I don't potentially flow water through the interior of the trailer? It's an Atwood heater. Thanks in advance
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08-26-2015, 07:46 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Only way your going to prove if its cracked and leaking is to start filling it..... just keep the hatch open its in and watch carefully....... if it starts to leak stop filling and start draining it from the outside plug fast....
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08-26-2015, 08:02 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Disconnect both the hot and cold water lines from the hot water tank . Plug either the hot or cold fitting on the tank and put a fitting with a schrader valve into the other tank fitting. Take a compressor and fill the heater tank with air. If the tank will hold air pressure, it will hold water pressure and water .If it won't hold air it won't hold water . Plus air will not leave a big
mess to cleanup if the tank is bad . That air method is used in construction to test water lines and sewer / vent piping.
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08-26-2015, 08:02 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: Surfside tm14
Alberta
Posts: 8
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You can also just pressure up the water system with air and check for leaks.
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08-26-2015, 08:19 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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I like the sound of testing with air much better. I'll try to find the right fittings to pressurize the system. 40 psi should be adequate?
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08-26-2015, 08:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Collins
I like the sound of testing with air much better. I'll try to find the right fittings to pressurize the system. 40 psi should be adequate?
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Camco sells a fitting that has a hose fitting on one side and an air connection fitting on the other side . The fitting screws into the same fitting as your fresh water hose .The fitting is normally used to winterize the trailer's water system and would work for your purpose also . The fitting is relatively. cheap.
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08-26-2015, 09:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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Thanks Steve, I'll look into that.
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08-26-2015, 09:17 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
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If it fails the air test you'll need a new water heater but if it passes the air test you still need to check the tank again when it's filled with water and heated to operating temp. The heated water could cause a leak when air or even cold water does not leak. Heat causes changes in metal
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08-27-2015, 07:26 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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Ok thanks to all. I'll get everything together and test it.
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09-02-2015, 11:35 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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You might want it filled with water when you pressure test it.
Water just leaks out. Air could blow the thing up.
If you put city pressure on it and ran the heater that might answer the question completely.
If there is a leak then dry things up fairly quickly an no harm no foul.
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09-02-2015, 01:09 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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I peeled off the insulation on the tank and found a 6" gash. These aluminum tanks blow up when they go. Time for a new tank or whole new water heater. Poor winterization from the previous owner. Floor is rotten in that corner too from the water leaking out when the temperature thawed. Not a big deal, just work.
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09-02-2015, 02:42 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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I have a 6 gal Atwood I am not using.
$50 and it yours. Depends on where you are located if it is worth shipping.
I am installing a tank less on the tongue instead of using this Atwood unit.
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09-02-2015, 02:49 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Collins
I peeled off the insulation on the tank and found a 6" gash. These aluminum tanks blow up when they go. Time for a new tank or whole new water heater. Poor winterization from the previous owner. Floor is rotten in that corner too from the water leaking out when the temperature thawed. Not a big deal, just work.
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PO of my trailer did not properly drain his hot water tank the prior winter either... same result. Bad news for him but good news for me as he had to install a new tank prior to my purchasing the trailer.
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09-02-2015, 03:14 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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How old is the water heater? I'd be tempted to take it myself. I'm in Tenn. and may not be too far away. We love a good Saturday drive :-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55
I have a 6 gal Atwood I am not using.
$50 and it yours. Depends on where you are located if it is worth shipping.
I am installing a tank less on the tongue instead of using this Atwood unit.
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09-02-2015, 05:16 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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Yeah mine looked exactly like that. Is it just the tank you're offering or the whole unit. I might be interested. Thx for the offer
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09-02-2015, 06:55 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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I did this instead of using the Attwood heater.
I haven't finished yes so I can't say how it works. Testing with it on a hand truck works well.
I made the stainless steel enclosure and welded a steel bracket to the framework. One reason for the extended frame/tongue.
As to the Attwood it is older, but I don't know the age. I bought it for my Scamp project and did the above instead.
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09-02-2015, 07:34 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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Sent you a pm Red Baron. That setup looks deluxe. I think the shipping to BC would be too much. Thanks for the offer.
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09-03-2015, 02:07 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 122
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Redbarron, thanks for dealing with me on the heater. I noticed on your new tongue you used angle iron to support your propane tank. I need to chop out my stock propane deck platform and fabricate something. Yours looks simple yet practical. I have 2 tanks so I could partition the angle iron into 2 squares. How are you holding your tank down?
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09-03-2015, 05:02 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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I am going to fabricate a hold down using two 1" stainless straps with hooks that go over the lower rim of the handle and the other end is connected with a turnbuckle to the angle using "S" hooks. This will let me tighten the turnbuckles to tighten the straps and hold down the tank.
When I have built it I will try to remember to post a picture.
I have to build things that are basically simple since that is all I can figure out.
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