How to attach table mounts to thin fiberglass wall?

[wxmixte]

Morning all!

We are planning on mounting our new table top to the back fiberglass wall of our Burro. Our table is already being supported by the detachable RV table leg on the side closest to the door, but we are looking for additional stability on the wall side.

We have these table mounts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The back wall of the burro is fiberglass only, and has varying space between the inner and outer fiberglass wall.

We are looking for a solution to attaching the mounts to the wall. Here are some of our ideas so far, we would love to hear if you have done this before or if you have any thoughts/ideas on the issue.

Idea #1: Bolt the mounts through both the inner and outer wall of the Burro to the outside. (my least favorite)

Idea #2: Use rivets to attach the mounts just to the interior wall of the Burro (would this be strong enough?)

Idea #3: Use a toggle bolt to attach the mounts only to the interior wall of the Burro

Idea #4: Fabricate a T-shaped support bracket that is supported by the spare tire bolts

Other ideas?

[USDM]

Open the battery box below and fit whatever piece of wood inbetween the outer and inner shell. You're going to have to wedge it but once you get it to your bracket area, you'll be able to drill and secure.

2 cents.

[ststefan]

Our table hardware went into the belly band on our 79 Boler and was leaking water because the screws were too long. I epoxied the holes shut and epoxied plywood to the shell and the screws go into the plywood now instead of the shell. The Boler does have a cover for that area si you don't see the blocking.

[TheWanderers]

Part of the our renovation of an old Scamp included removing as many holes from the shell as possible. This included the table mounting brackets and the spare tire mount that you've shown in your photo. I patched those holes, filling the potential points for leaks as well as reinforcing the small stress cracks that resulted from the spare tire bouncing around as we drove down the road. We remounted the spare tire on the rear bumper and replaced the table brackets with a stand alone table base. It was one of the best upgrades that we ever completed, prior to selling our Scamp.


Now we have our Bigfoot and we have the same type of free-standing table and still enjoying the freedom of being able to take the table outside if needed and not having any holes in the shell that may/could leak.

[mszabo]

Cut a piece of 1”x2” or wider. That will fit through the opening.
Cut length to the distance between brackets.
Use scrap piece of lumber screwed to center on 1x2. Leave gap to swivel 1x2 into wall. Tighten and level strip of lumber in place.
Now you can screw brackets through fiberglass into wood cross piece.

[Tom 72]

I am reluctant to post about a topic that I am not familiar, but what the heck.

How a about Plan B, a table supported by a center post on the floor? I realize some wobble is likely. The picture is the receiver for the table post.

[wxmixte]

Originally Posted by Tom 72

I am reluctant to post about a topic that I am no familiar, but what the heck.

How a about Plan B, a table supported by a center post on the floor? I realize some wobble is likely. The picture is the receiver for the table post.

Tom,

This is what we are going to have on the other end of the table, we are thinking of using the bracket mounts as a stabilizer for any wobble. I'm also trying to think of other ways to stabilize the table maybe without using the wall brackets, possibly fold-down legs that rest on the middle bench seat? I'm still brainstorming...

-Ashley

[John in Michigan]

I agree with mszabo's idea: If a 1x2 can be inserted behind the FG where the table brackets will be mounted, that would work. The 1x2 would spread the load thus minimizing the possibility of damaging the FG.

Otherwise, consider using well nuts which have a dense rubber outer layer that expands as you tighten the nut. This type of nut would minimize the possibility of cracking the FG.

[mszabo]

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00G44J9...522258684&sr=1

https://smile.amazon.com/AP-Products...s=rv+table+leg

Same set up as on my BF. Use table up or down

[Tom 72]

Brainstorming here. Do the benches have any lip or edges near the wall where several short half-legs could fold down and rest on for support? Some benches have an edge that the table top rests on when converting to a bed.

The point of the two shorter legs by the wall would be some 3 point stability.

[Casita Greg]

It isn't the rear table, as mine is the side dinette table, but I also didn't like the wobbly pedestal single tube stanchion for the table that came from the factory. In addition to the pedestal, I also replaced the factory table top with a larger one, (from IKEA,) and in the process, I added an aluminum angle bracket and bolted it through the side of the fiberglass wall with 1/4"-20 stainless machine screws/nuts and snap caps, to add additional stability. Obviously, if you use the side dinette as an additional bunk, this will not work, since it is a relatively permanent installation, but since there's only the two of us and we sleep on our full-time rear mattress, it isn't a problem for us. I added a piece of aluminum angle bracket against the wall and bolted it to the fiberglass. The table top is screwed to it from underneath and it is extremely stable and solid.

[David B.]

[QUOTE=wxmixte;689755]Morning all!

We are planning on mounting our new table top to the back fiberglass wall of our Burro. Our table is already being supported by the detachable RV table leg on the side closest to the door, but we are looking for additional stability on the wall side.

We have these table mounts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The back wall of the burro is fiberglass only, and has varying space between the inner and outer fiberglass wall.

We are looking for a solution to attaching the mounts to the wall. Here are some of our ideas so far, we would love to hear if you have done this before or if you have any thoughts/ideas on the issue.

Idea #1: Bolt the mounts through both the inner and outer wall of the Burro to the outside. (my least favorite)

Idea #2: Use rivets to attach the mounts just to the interior wall of the Burro (would this be strong enough?)

I have had great success using 3M tape for a variety of applications, that way if I ever want to change things up, it doesn’t leave any tell tail signs.
Dave & Paula

[wxmixte]

Thank you all for your input, we went back and forth and finally ended up deciding to drill holes through the rear of the Burro to support the table brackets. We used stainless steel bolts, washers, and locking nuts. We also added some neoprene washers to keep out water.

So for now, the table is up! It is supported by the table pole in the center and the additional two rear brackets for stability. I'm still a little worried this is too much strain on the rear wall, but hopefully it will be fine since the majority of the table weight is on the center pole.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by wxmixte

Thank you all for your input, we went back and forth and finally ended up deciding to drill holes through the rear of the Burro to support the table brackets. We used stainless steel bolts, washers, and locking nuts. We also added some neoprene washers to keep out water.

So for now, the table is up! It is supported by the table pole in the center and the additional two rear brackets for stability. I'm still a little worried this is too much strain on the rear wall, but hopefully it will be fine since the majority of the table weight is on the center pole.

A better approach would be to use thickened epoxy resin to bond a length of wood to the interior of the shell. That will distribute the load across a wider area. Essentially you are making the shell much thicker and stronger in that area where it is bolted so that it is better able to support the load. That is how the designers of my Campster dealt with it.

[John in Santa Cruz]

on our casita, the previous owner mounted a 1/2" aluminum angle the width of the table to the wall with a couple rivets, there's a velcro strip on the top of this angle, and on the bottom wall side edge of the table... this stabilizes the table quite nicely.

[Kenny Strong]

Interesting. our 1993 13' "Lil" Bigfoot has the center support to the floor. When set on the post, the back corners of the table top are in tight contact with the back wall. No attachment to the back wall. It is such a solid support it can travel with the table set up. We travel with it down. When sitting down and holding on to the edge of the table, to adjust sitting position it does not move. when pushing down on the front edge, the back does not raise up. there is a utensil drawer in front of the support leg. the drawer and contents can be heavy. table does not move around. A bumper on the back corners of the table, in contact with a Fg back wall could keep the top from raising up at the back edge. ours is in contact with the rat fur it pushes into the fur. This design is by the manufacturer.

[jbenkovich]

Hi Karin, You might be out on the road but thought I would contact you anyway! I have tried and failed to epoxy a 1 x 2 piece of oak cut to the curve to the back of my TailMite as a base for my table hardware. The hardware goes the length (30") of the table. I most likely did not prep the fiberglass properly and will try again. My question from your post is, do I epoxy and add bolts through the 2 layers of fiberglass? I have also read about 5200/4200 as an adhesive, your thoughts on that?
Thanks so much! The latest on your Campster is beautiful and such details. You are very talented!
Julie in WA

[dmad1]

Take a look at this link to how a Casita owner extended the width of his twin beds using 3M VHB tape #4941 and L brackets. No screws or rivet and no holes in the fiberglass. I think the original idea came from Casita Tred on Facebook. I plan on doing the same.

https://www.fiberglassclassifieds.co...rty-deluxe-402