Hydroflame 8012-I - is it the control board? - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-19-2022, 12:23 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
Hydroflame 8012-I - is it the control board?

Good morning. I need a little advice from those of you who may have fought with these little furnaces. I've been working on this little Hydroflame I picked up for a couple hundred bucks last week. Motor squealed badly - mostly dirt and the combustion fan out of balance, but I have a new one coming anyway. Had it purring like a kitten after a day or two of dismantling and cleaning. But that likely won't last.

Current issue is heat - as in none! From what I have read via the Atwood service manual, the original boards were a single test - and even if it failed to ignite (for whatever reason) the blower would keep going. Which is what I have.

So what I have is- great motor, blows strong, but cold air and is continuous - doesn't shut down if there is no ignition.
There is no spark (that I can detect) and the gas valves are not opening.

I have checked:
12V power from the thermostat to the delay relay - Yes; high limit switch - also good; the sail switch - good
power is going into the board past the sail switch, and that is where things seem to grind to a halt...

Direct 12V application to the gas valves and both solenoids pop like they should
I don't think I have a way of directly checking the spark, since it looks like it will need a lot more "oomph" than my 12V battery can provide judging by the gauge of the wire coming of the ignitor capacitor. But I think it's unlikely they are the issue, given that I also have no joy at the gas valves from the board, but they work fine when I apply a direct 12V charge to them.

Am I missing anything before I order a new board? Not going to give up on it. It is very clean, just dusty from sitting, no rust in the combustion chamber, or anywhere, in great shape physically, and from what I see, once I get the ignition issue sorted, I should be in good shape. And it fits the empty space that the 7916 vacated when it died several years ago (before my time) so no modifications to anything. AND its a direct spark ignition - no pilot or piezo to fiddle around with.
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2022, 08:24 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
LarryB.'s Avatar
 
Name: Larry
Trailer: Casita17'Spirit Deluxe (aka: Tweaker's Casita)
Southwest Ohio
Posts: 319
Registry
Check the exterior vents (exhaust and combustion air input); two vents usually one on top of the other sharing a metal plate. If mud daubers have taken up residence or if the vents are clogged there could be no air flow for the sail switch to detect.

I presume that you checked the sail switch with an ohm meter to verify that it's contacts are closing when the switch "sails".

Next, check the igniter probe to insure that it isn't corroded and that it is in proper position for the spark to jump thru the gas flow. You might be able to verify that by hooking up a gas grill piezoelectric igniter to the back end of the igniter probe.

Lastly, check the connections to the control board to make sure that they aren't corroded.

Beyond the above and what you've already checked, the control board might be the issue of last resort....
LarryB. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2022, 09:13 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryB. View Post
Check the exterior vents (exhaust and combustion air input); two vents usually one on top of the other sharing a metal plate. If mud daubers have taken up residence or if the vents are clogged there could be no air flow for the sail switch to detect.

I presume that you checked the sail switch with an ohm meter to verify that it's contacts are closing when the switch "sails".

Next, check the igniter probe to insure that it isn't corroded and that it is in proper position for the spark to jump thru the gas flow. You might be able to verify that by hooking up a gas grill piezoelectric igniter to the back end of the igniter probe.

Lastly, check the connections to the control board to make sure that they aren't corroded.

Beyond the above and what you've already checked, the control board might be the issue of last resort....
Hi Larry. It's on the bench in the garage and the vents are absolutely clear - the outside of the combustion chamber is squeaky clean and no sign of rust or corrosion on the seam I have pulled and checked all of the connections - they are in good shape.

I checked the sail switch with an ohm meter after pulling it, as well as checking the 12V path with it closed - open, no voltage, closed, 12 volts - so it is good. I even checked to make sure the motor was actually "sailing" it enough to close - one clip on the frame, one probe at the board connector - 12 volts with the motor running. So the switch works and the motor is spinning fast enough. Plenty of air moving.

I haven't pulled it yet, but I hadn't thought of using an old BBQ piezo to check the electrode. Since I only have one BBQ, I am a little reluctant to dismantle the lighter - it can be finicky at best - but I'll take a look at it and see if I can pop it out of the WeberQ. Might be a good opportunity to clean the igniter on that - could fix the BBQ at the same time . I also doubt that they are the problem, since the rest of the unit is so corrosion free, and the fact that the board also doesn't open the gas valve. I figure if my 32 year old Dometic piezo fridge electrode still sparks effectively, (and you should have seen the mess back there when I bought it!) these are far less likely to have a problem with corrosion than that. But I could be wrong!!

I have ordered a new Dino board on amazon. If it turns out it isn't needed, I can return it, or keep it as a spare. I actually hope it IS the board, since that is the one thing I can order on amazon up here in Canada. Everything else, though I can find them - combustion wheels, squirrel cages, electrodes, etc - I have to get through US suppliers - and the freight to get an electrode set here (from the one place I can find it in stock) is 3X the cost of the electrode - & then it's in USD. And I can't find one supplier who has everything. So the cost of shipping would be immense.
Hope it's the board! 🤞🏼
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2022, 12:54 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Kenny Strong's Avatar
 
Name: kenny
Trailer: 93 "Lil" Bigfoot 13.5'
Utah
Posts: 519
Deb I have had this experience. If the battery is low the heater motor comes on and blows and stays on. I can charge the battery and the flame will ignite. Or hook the 7pin back to the tow start the motor and the flame will ignite.
Someone posted, " if you tap on the control valve where the gas supply is connected it might induce the valve to open and let gas into the system "
Does this work ?


Later Kenny
Kenny Strong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2022, 01:15 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny Strong View Post
Deb I have had this experience. If the battery is low the heater motor comes on and blows and stays on. I can charge the battery and the flame will ignite. Or hook the 7pin back to the tow start the motor and the flame will ignite.
Someone posted, " if you tap on the control valve where the gas supply is connected it might induce the valve to open and let gas into the system "
Does this work ?


Later Kenny
Hi Kenny - I am running it on a fully charged 12V battery here in the garage (it's on the bench - just picked it up last week). Voltage on the meter reads 12.8V so I know it's fully charged.
I get 12V all the way along the line from the incoming thermostat white/hot wire that goes to the delay relay, right through the limit switch and sail switch to the board connector. So it can go into the board, but I get nothing coming out of the board. I know the motor is closing the sail switch because the voltage is making it through to the board when the motor is running.

If I apply voltage directly to the gas valve it opens just fine, but haven't been able to test the electrode because I don't have anything that can generate the level of "oomph" to generate a spark, since it won't go through the board to get into the capacitor for the igniter. It was suggested that I try BBQ piezo igniter to apply power directly to the electrode, but I haven't been able to get out to the trailer to see if I can get it out without buggering up my weberQ And it's -17C out there today, so not in the mood to do a lot of outdoor activity.

I tried tapping the gas valve before, and nothing happened - that was my thought too - maybe stuck - didn't help. But the valve does work - if I apply 12 volts directly from the battery to the solenoids. One thing I haven't done yet is check the resistance across the solenoids. I'll probably do that today (or tomorrow - garage is also pretty frosty today!)

So I am still left with the probability that it's the board - delay relay, high limit switch, sail switch, gas valve, motor, all working as they should. I am going to try to find a way to test that electrode before the board gets here (that should be later this week). Bad board works out best for me though - cheaper than trying to get an electrode in here from the US.
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2022, 02:13 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Lynn
Trailer: '06 Scamp 16
Rochester, New York
Posts: 286
Bad Board?

I experienced similar symptoms with our '06 Scamp furnace a few years ago. An inspection of the control board revealed a visibly cracked resistor. I replaced it and all has been well for about ten years. A problem with our home furnace was traced to bad solder joint on the board. Again, a simple repair. I was probably just lucky to be able to spot those problems, but it's worth a look.
Lynn Eberhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2022, 02:28 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
That’s actually a good idea. I haven’t had a chance to really go over the board yet. But I did read that if I can track down the faulty bit on the board, it can often be replaced fairly easily. Since I’m pretty sure it isn’t working, I suppose giving it a good going over can’t hurt anything.
Since there isn’t anything else on my plate today, maybe I’ll give it a close inspection later.
Thanks for the comment and the suggestion. I always prefer fixing over replacing if I can. Plus it’s a lot more fun!
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2022, 02:53 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
Well I pulled the board and checked everything from the top. It all looked good. Checked the bottom for any loose welds or anything that looked burnt and I found a crack in the board, that goes right through the incoming track(?) whatever you call it. No continuity from the contact to the exposed copper. (I lifted the green sealant away to get at the circuit - had to get real close to notice the crack) I compared it to the contact next to it and there is continuity there. So it looks like that is my culprit. Nothing coming into the board from the connector.

So just for grins n giggles, I am going to pull my soldering iron out and see if I can repair that little spot. I'll put the new board in anyway, since it's coming, and this would be more or less a bandaid. But will be fun to see if it works.
Attached Thumbnails
fullsizeoutput_1041.jpg  
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2022, 03:21 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
We have HEAT!!!! I will still install the new board, since this little solder job isn't the kind of thing I would expect to hold up for a long time, and keep this as a spare.
But it works. Great little furnace - blowing hot air like a good thing. The combustion chamber is hotter than a bear, though it can't make a lot of headway in a -15C garage, with the cold air return being what it is on the bench, but it's nice & quiet, the gas valve opening isn't totally intrusive and it will most definitely do the job. I don't plan on doing much camping anywhere near freezing.
Thanks Lynn for that post.
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2022, 12:46 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Lynn
Trailer: '06 Scamp 16
Rochester, New York
Posts: 286
Board Repair

If you fixed the break with jumper wire and not just solder, it will probably last for years.
You're welcome.
Lynn Eberhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2022, 09:31 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Name: Deb
Trailer: 1990 Bigfoot B19
British Columbia
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Eberhardt View Post
If you fixed the break with jumper wire and not just solder, it will probably last for years.
You're welcome.
Hey Lynn. I was just doing that solder job to test if it could work. Wasn't even sure if anyone would consider it a legitimate means of permanent repair. Adding a piece of wire was suggested to me as well. After the fact, but, I'll go back today and see if I can beef it up with a piece of wire (God knows I have plenty of wire to work with - pulling a strand from some 10G stranded left from re-wiring the battery and solar controller should work well). I only put a tiny dot of solder on that break for "proof of concept" so to speak, so there's plenty of room for improvement.

I figure if I can get that nice and solid, I'll put a light coat of epoxy over the site and that should protect the circuitry as well as strengthen the bend/crack in the board material itself. Then maybe I will return the board and save myself $150!
__________________
Deb
1990 Bigfoot B19
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
Deb Mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2022, 08:12 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
Posts: 180
Deb: Don't let anyone tell you "you don't know how to trouble-shoot problems".
Excellent work on catching the 'break' in the 'Trace' and curing the fault.
A 'soldered-wire bypass' is the best form of repair, and if there's a 'thru-hole' for a 'discrete component' at either side of the break (in that trace) connect your bypass at those points. Be careful not to overheat and burn the board.
Repair sequence:
Force some mixed epoxy into the crack and allow to cure.
Add your 'bypass', and test operation. Then, if all good, build a dome of epoxy over the entire repair, to strengthen.
Good luck!
Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Refrigerator control board question Rzrbrn Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 02-25-2019 04:19 PM
Heeelp!! Trying to shoehorn Atwood 8012 Heater into 13' Trill trilliumdon Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 04-23-2011 09:53 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.