Installing AC under front bunk/couch?

[Baxter]

I've searched and read a lot of AC threads, and the more I read the more I'm confused. Missing photos and bad links on old threads may be making that confusion worse.

I'm looking for examples of an AC installed under the front bunk on a Boler-type 13-footer. I believe originally a sorta-potty was stored in the space.

How is it vented? Does it have enough airflow? Are additional fans needed? Are there advantages/disadvantages compared to, say, a closet install?

It looks like my trailer had one installed there at one time, venting through two 4-inch portholes cut in the front. I don't believe that would be enough vent without a helper fan, but I don't know the math there, either. My portable AC has a single 6-inch exhaust vent, so maybe?

There's also additional venting cut into the floor

[JeromeB]

Mine also came with it looking like someone had done it in the past. then they stuck a large heavy roof ac on it and it sagged bad and leaked. I took it off and put a 5000 btu window ac unit under the bed. It was kind of complicated. With a couple of modifications it works great now and is very quiet down there.

[kennechi]

I have done this exact project, and we love it. There was a complete "tunnel" under the bunk with both sides and top and bottom. So I slid my window type A/C in the tunnel and used foam insulation to isolate the front half from the back half ( which would normally hang outside the house. I cut two 4 inch round holes in the floor behing the unit and inserted two 4 inch pvc plumbing elbows out the bottom of the trailer and facing to the rear underneath. Of course you have to secure the ac so it does not slide around, or move at all. Then in the right side storage compartment I cut another 4 inch hole and installed another elbow and installed a small fan to pull air in from the outside, up the elbow and into the compartment with the ac unit. I ran conduit under the trailer and installed a 110volt double outlet in the right side compartment. I plugged the ac and the fan into that outlet and placed the switch to control that outlet over by the bed, so I can turn it off or on at night without getting up from bed. If you have more questions, shoot me an email....kennechi65@hotmail.com

[Baxter]

Those both sound good. Can you share any pics of the installation?

[Wayne Collins]

IF you can get enough air circulation around the "outside" part, condenser coils to carry away the heat,
and IF you can move enough AIR on the inside. It might work.
BUT you are defying the laws of physics. That's why most trailer put the A/C on the roof.
Our Parkliner has the A/C under the side dinette seat. but the vent holes under the floor, and heat exhaust vent outside don't provide enough circulation.
Remember; when you need A/C it is hot outside. The machine is using hot air to "COOL" the condenser. There is a limit as to how much differential temperature it can handle

[aceman]

No problem with water drainage on humid days? I have read that newer models may not need a drain outlet but older models can create excess water at times.

[JeromeB]

I would send pics if I could figure out how to send them. All I can say it works really great and is really quiet.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by JeromeB

I would send pics if I could figure out how to send them. All I can say it works really great and is really quiet.

You can't send photos by PM as far as I know, and I've been trying for ten years. As for attaching them to a post, I think you need a few more posts before you can do that.
You could ask for the person's email address, but it needs to be disguised, like replacing @ with aT if that person hasn't enough posts.

[JeromeB]

In the left picture is showing the ac anchored down with a foam box taped to the back to direct the hot air out a large cut-out. On the outside of that cut out is aluminum louvered vents from lowes that have a screen backing. There is also in that left picture a small desktop fan that is blowing air into the space under the bed to supply air to the ac. I set the ac in a cut down plastic bin from lowes to capture any water. The bin has a couple of pipes that I taped into the bottom. The pipes go thru the floor and have a screen on them to keep out mud dobbers and other bugs. The picture on the right is a duct made from foam and ducktape. It was the final part that made it work. Without it the ac unit even with a fan under the bed was not getting the cold air out to us. With it wow. The cold air was probibly looping back to the ac theromstat and the foam duct fixed that.

[Baxter]

Thanks, that’s very helpful. Where does the duct in the second pic run to and from?

[K Patrick]

See Post #50

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/m...1644073-2.html

[JeromeB]

that duct in my hand is about 2 ft long and just conveniently wedges up right under the table/bed board to the top third of the ac where the cold air comes out and finds it way down the duct to exit by the edge of the bed. My trailer also came with a 2 plug outlet box under seat wired to a switch by sink to turn the ac on and off.

[JeromeB]

I wondered why that outside louvered area was is there , Then the cord area for external power had a lot of silicone caulk here and there under the bed I wondered why. And I really wanted to do air-conditioning . So I figured it all out

[ericw]

Originally Posted by Baxter

I've searched and read a lot of AC threads, and the more I read the more I'm confused. Missing photos and bad links on old threads may be making that confusion worse.

I'm looking for examples of an AC installed under the front bunk on a Boler-type 13-footer. I believe originally a sorta-potty was stored in the space.

How is it vented? Does it have enough airflow? Are additional fans needed? Are there advantages/disadvantages compared to, say, a closet install?

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...den-55026.html


Here is my installation from a previous trailer with pictures. You need to get cool air into the right spots and the hot air out - I used a fan and the air coming out was fairly warm. If you are in humid climates at all you will need to think about water drainage. I tried it before modifications on a warm humid day in Michigan (not the worst humidity in the USA) and it was shocking how much water it collected and sprayed around. I'd much rather control where the water goes. Putting cold air in the trailer at the floor means you need to circulate it so I put a fan pointing up to circulate the hot and cold air in the trailer. It was simple and worked well.



I prioritized looks and I wanted it hidden and "reversible" if I screwed up so the front center porta potty closet made sense. You could do it in the closet but you are likely messing with taking out fiberglass to get air in and out which is less reversible and may affect looks. Lots of tradeoffs and you can choose the ones you want.


I would have put a roof one on but my roof wasn't capable of holding one so if I wanted AC it was going to be custom. We loved it. It worked great. No issues even for the people who owned it after us. Good luck!


Eric

[Todd A C]

FWIW, the EggCamper has its AC installed under the seat of the side dinette. It vents out the side.

[Sue1952]

My Scamp came with the icebox. I hated it. I decided to take out the icebox and install the AC unit there. There was already electricity present and a hole in the floor. My RV guy was able to do a great install in this location, using a large cooking sheet pan to catch drainage and let it out. Here's a link to the video I made: https://youtu.be/WCDnMdrBF7k

[Doggonehappy1]

Looks fantastic, with lots of venting.

[Hopper]

You said you your roof would not hold an AC unit? How do I know without actually putting one up thereto fall through?
Have you installed a fantastic fan?
Has anyone put another kind of window in the side rear so an AC unit could fit in this window?
I need some AC in my scamp 13, HELP !!

[Hopper]

any good ideas with where and how to install an AC unit in my Scamp 13’ ?
new window in side rear ?
Roof, but it might fall through ?
below couch, I really am opposed to this install, sorry.
Fantastic fan in roof vent?

any other ways that work ?

[aceman]

It is my belief that older Scamps do not have the needed structural strength to hold a roof AC. I installed a fantastic fan to the rear of my escape hatch and don't think I would want to put anymore weight in that area. I do believe that I will be able to put a 50-100 amp solar panel towards the front of the roof do to the panels light weight.