Installing Dometic Brisk Air 2 on Uhaul - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:08 PM   #1
Junior Member
Name: Kim
Trailer: 1985 13' U Haul Camper
Posts: 12
Installing Dometic Brisk Air 2 on Uhaul

Hello everyone. I am Scoutmarm - new member to community with 1985 Uhaul. She is in pretty good shape but am doing complete remodel starting with wiring, lights, and air conditioning.
All posts I have read do not recommend roof air because of fiberglass sag; or to at least reinforce roof before installing.
These posts were for bolers and scamps which clamshell top to bottom. My Uhaul, however, clams side to side with a central metal clipped spine running stem to stern.
My air weighs 96lbs; info says to have at least 200lbs static weight. I have successfully held 110lbs static.
I plan to reinforce roof further distributing the weight. I will replace original 14 x 14 frame with 3/4" plywood panel sandwiched between the exterior roof and interior trim completely filling the raised area on the ceiling. Please see my attachment.
I would appreciate any feedback asap as I have been stalling my project waiting on the "director of threadland security" to approve my feed.
Thanks so much. I will post improvements as I go.
Estimated time of launch is first week of June. 🤞
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:24 AM   #2
Senior Member
Name: Gary
Trailer: UHaul CT13
Posts: 302
I would guess that better-informed people than I am will weigh in on this in the next day or two... probably with words of caution.
Some time ago, there was a post where a U-Haul owner added wooden ribs running side-to-side to add stiffness... one in front of the rooftop opening, and one behind it. I believe they bonded the wooden rib to the fiberglass skin with resin and f/g matte.
Just in general, I'd say the U-Haul's construction is both strong & flexible. There aren't any heavy loads on it at any one point... not in most of them, at any rate. Some did come with "swamp coolers" on the roof, though... and I don't know what the weight of those coolers was.
Are you a member on the U-Haul FaceBook forum, too? If so, you could search and/or ask over there, and try to find the build I referenced above.
Best of luck with the build, in any event!
"You'd care less what people think of you if you knew how seldom they did." E Roosevelt
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:05 AM   #3
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Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Posts: 505
Actually I have seen several photos of roof top AC on theCT version and one in person that I thought was structurally very sound ,so it can be done. The VT version16 typically came with one but has a slightly different roof and interior configuration to support it. PM me and I will send pictures of the CT mod.
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:19 PM   #4
Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
Posts: 1,890
If this was my project I would not use plywood i would use a piece of foam about 3 feet long and as wide as the channel in the roof top. Trim it to fit very close to the sides of the channel in its width and at the ends of the 3 foot cut it at a bevel so it will look like a nice transition. On the side that will be bonded to the ceiling, bond a couples of layers of fiberglass accross the surface and up the sides. After that cures flip it over and do the other side. This makes a foam filled box beam. After that is done prep the ceiling and the surface of the box beam and epoxy bond this beam centered accross the hole in the ceiling for the airconditioner. It is very important that it bonds tightly to the sides of the inside channel to add stiffness to the trailer.

Use prop rods and a piece of plywood wrapped in a plastic bag under this box beam from the floor to this box beam. Use enough force to lift any sag and and hold the beam until epoxy cures. Most epoxy doesn't reach full cure for at least 24 hours. I would leave it a couple of days.

Now I would turn to the top and cut the hole for the air conditioner in your new box beam.

Now you have to do pretty much the same thing for the top to make a level pad for the airconditioner due to the ridge of your top seam.

Leave the prop rods and plywood supporting the ceiling while you work on the top.

Cut the foam to fit over the top seam. I would not remove the bonded ridge. Coat the foam with resin and glass fabric just like you did on the bottom box beam. Then after cure you bond it to the top of the trailer. Stack some weight on it until cure. Now you have to do some bodywork to blend the airconditioning pad to the top of the trailer. Then cut the hole for the air conditioner and I would resin and glass fiber between the 2 holes.

Then you get to make the age old decision to re-gelcoat or paint to blend the body work.
dont forget you have to run power into the airconditioner so you will have to make allowences for that.

This work is very messy so mask well and plan on dripping epoxy all over the place before your done. Even this may not be enough reinforcement or spread the load out far enough but it is as far as you can go without messing up the gellcoat in the pretty parts of the ceiling.

I am not an engineer and do not profess to be one. This is only the approach I would take if this was my personal trailer.
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:08 PM   #5
Junior Member
Name: Kim
Trailer: 1985 13' U Haul Camper
Posts: 12
Fortunately, roof vent fan was standard equipment in the Uhaul. The hole receptacle is the perfect size and the ridge spine stops at the roof opening and then continues. Thanks for the foam box idea.
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Old 05-12-2018, 11:32 AM   #6
Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Sprinter 'til I buy
Denver, CO
Posts: 944
Nice reply, Steve.
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air conditioning, roof air, roof air weight capacity, uhaul

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