Installing eye bolts in Scamp ceiling. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-31-2020, 08:38 AM   #1
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Name: zack
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Installing eye bolts in Scamp ceiling.

I would love to have about four eyebolts in the ceiling of my Scamp 13. I noticed that the way that Scamp mounts things on the inside, like the cabinets, is via through bolts that have a white cap over them on the outside of the hull. Those seem to work well and none of mine have ever leaked so far. It is a 2015 Scamp.
Is that relatively easy to do yourself as an after market add-on? Any advice or cautionary tales? What kind of hardware and sealant would you use?
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Old 03-31-2020, 10:20 AM   #2
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Eye bolts

First of all, I wouldnít do it, however, its your roof. How much weight and where at? The roof may have some reinforcements for the air conditioner that may hold some SMALL eye bolts. The roof is very thin and I would think that the shell would crack or bow in with long term weight on it. The white caps are called snap caps and come in several sizes. The Scamp site has a video of how to use the cap on a rivet. Just the first of what Iím sure will be MANY opinions.
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Old 03-31-2020, 10:53 AM   #3
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3 lbs

The weight would be only about 3 lbs.
If I were to cut the eyebolt to just the right length so that itís flush with the nut on the outside of the roof, would I be able to put one of those white caps over it like scamp does with the rivets?
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Old 03-31-2020, 10:59 AM   #4
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Curious what is it you want to hang... Iím pretty sure someone on this great forum has either done it already or may have some other ideas
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Old 03-31-2020, 11:42 AM   #5
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Installing eye bolts in camp ceiling

I personally would not do it, but... if it had be done, use stainless steel fender washers at least 1 1/2 wide.

Bill

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Curious what is it you want to hang... Iím pretty sure someone on this great forum has either done it already or may have some other ideas
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Old 03-31-2020, 12:20 PM   #6
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Curious what is it you want to hang...

Handcuffs?
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Old 03-31-2020, 01:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
The weight would be only about 3 lbs.

If I were to cut the eyebolt to just the right length so that itís flush with the nut on the outside of the roof, would I be able to put one of those white caps over it like scamp does with the rivets?
They make a lot of different sizes. You can buy them at your local hardware store, where theyíre sold as screw caps. Pretty sure you could find one to fit as long as you cut off any excess bolt length. I think Iíd want to use a nylock nut.
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Old 03-31-2020, 01:56 PM   #8
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Name: K C
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you can purchase Acorn nuts with a nylock feature.

Those are the nuts that are shaped like a little acorn to cap off the end of the threads and will keep it from coming off the threads due to vibration.

Keyword to use when going into a hardware store:
Stainless Nylock Acorn nut plus of course you need to match the diameter and pitch of the threads on the eye bolts you purchase. Plus it would be good to use stainless fender washers to distribute the load across a wider area.

For water proof mounting I suggest using the butyl rubber caulking tape you can purchase over in the weather stripping aisle of the hardware store. Same material as the Butyl rubber tape sold at RV supply stores just looks a little different in shape as it is made to be easy to pull off a thin strip from the width of the tape. Put some on the threads of the eyebolt as well as under the washer and nut. When you add it to the threads that are closest to the hole in the roof and project above the roof it will prevent water from entering along the path of the threading.
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Old 03-31-2020, 01:59 PM   #9
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Do you have the wood cabinets inside? I used screw eyes into the wood to string lines for drying towels, etc.
But, eye bolts through the FG is OK, as someone said, Use fender washers inside and out, a jam nut inside, a locknut or acorn nut outside. A dab of silicone sealant under the outside washer.
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Old 03-31-2020, 02:51 PM   #10
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Installing eye bolts in Scamp ceiling.

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Originally Posted by Wayne Collins View Post
Do you have the wood cabinets inside? I used screw eyes into the wood to string lines for drying towels, etc.

But, eye bolts through the FG is OK, as someone said, Use fender washers inside and out, a jam nut inside, a locknut or acorn nut outside. A dab of silicone sealant under the outside washer.


Still depending on what heís mounting Iím sure somebody on this site has already ďbeen there done that ď

And can either come up with a better idea or at least some options.... drilling holes thru the top of my trailer is way way way down on the list of options for me
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Old 03-31-2020, 06:24 PM   #11
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Do you have the wood cabinets inside? I used screw eyes into the wood to string lines for drying towels, etc.
But, eye bolts through the FG is OK, as someone said, Use fender washers inside and out, a jam nut inside, a locknut or acorn nut outside. A dab of silicone sealant under the outside washer.

I agree with the "don't do it" crowd. However, if you do, no silicone sealant. Silicone on fiberglass leaves a film that is very hard to get off if you ever want to. There are many non-silicone sealants that will do the job.
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Old 03-31-2020, 06:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
I would love to have about four eyebolts in the ceiling of my Scamp 13. I noticed that the way that Scamp mounts things on the inside, like the cabinets, is via through bolts that have a white cap over them on the outside of the hull. ..
I think they are rivets and not bolts (with a very few exceptions where bolts are used). The rivets (or bolt heads) have snap cap bases under the head on the exterior and snap caps on the bases.

But each one creates a possible leak sooner or later, so I am also in the "don't make more holes" school. Instead I would use fiberglass cloth and resin to attach (glass-in) some wood blocks, then use eye-screws in the wood block that do not penetrate the shell (thereby creating a possible leak someday).

The down side is if you are doing this where there is rat fur or elephant skin. You would need to glass in the wood blocks underneath or cut it away to make room for the wood block.

And remember, the shape is not the only reason they call them egg campers. The roof is not designed to hold more weight, except were reinforced to do so.
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Old 04-01-2020, 06:28 AM   #13
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i too agree

our scamp sometime in its life had a roof a/c added. this was not a simple endeavor the scamp had to go back to the factory to pull down the ratfur and then additional roof supports were added for more strength.

I am of the crowd don't do it!

but best of luck

bob
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Old 04-01-2020, 10:06 AM   #14
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A/C roof support

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our scamp sometime in its life had a roof a/c added. this was not a simple endeavor the scamp had to go back to the factory to pull down the ratfur and then additional roof supports were added for more strength.bob
This is the quote from Scamp
Q. Can roof air conditioners be added to older Scamp trailers? A. All 5th wheel Scamps can use roof air conditioners. Older 5th wheels may require the oak reinforcement supports (can be purchased from the Scamp parts department). On most 16 foot Scamps from the year 2000 the roof has been supported for the roof air. On 16 foot Scamps prior to this year most didnít have the roof air support. To check for support find the 120 volt wire tucked behind the fabric strip. This wire will be on the same side of the trailer as the 120 panel with the circuit breakers. Any trailers with the wire and support in the roof can have the roof air added. Thirteen foot Scamp trailers donít have the roof air support unless there is already a roof air installed or if the original buyer requested that the trailer be built that way. Also most trailers with a power vent in the roof air spot wonít have supported roofs. Most 16 and 13 foot trailers prior to 2000 used a side air conditioner in the lower part of the closet by the door. This air conditioner is no longer available.
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Old 04-01-2020, 10:35 AM   #15
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Best of luck on your efforts. Just a few thoughts.

Would your head clear the eye bolts when you aren’t hanging your doodad?

How about magnetic hooks on the inside and a galvanized steel or magnetic stainless steel plate or large washers on the outside? You could take it down easily. These may be overkill but it shows the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Cou...757608&sr=8-10

I tried weaker magnets through a piece of fiberglass from my trailer and it provided some attraction.

The steel plate would distribute the load on the fiberglass.
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Old 04-01-2020, 12:32 PM   #16
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Best of luck on your efforts. Just a few thoughts.

Would your head clear the eye bolts when you arenít hanging your doodad?

How about magnetic hooks on the inside and a galvanized steel or magnetic stainless steel plate or large washers on the outside? You could take it down easily. These may be overkill but it shows the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Cou...757608&sr=8-10

I tried weaker magnets through a piece of fiberglass from my trailer and it provided some attraction.

The steel plate would distribute the load on the fiberglass.


Since the original poster has never responded back as to what he was trying to hang Iím assuming he has other dropped the idea or found a solution
I will never understand ( my pet peeve)... why someone will post an issue and either never respond back or let us know what the solution was..... one never knows if someone else might have the same problem later on
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Old 04-01-2020, 12:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by alan H View Post
Since the original poster has never responded back as to what he was trying to hang Iím assuming he has other dropped the idea or found a solution ...
Well, its only been a day. And if he has the virus he might take two weeks to get back online.
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:52 PM   #18
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Since the original poster has never responded back as to what he was trying to hang Iím assuming he has other dropped the idea or found a solution
I will never understand ( my pet peeve)... why someone will post an issue and either never respond back or let us know what the solution was..... one never knows if someone else might have the same problem later on
That person has been in this forum for a while, they have made 38 previous postings. Don't give up on them this soon.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:10 PM   #19
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I have put screws through the roof, sides, front and back and have never had a leak from any of them.
As a matter of fact there are only about maybe 20 rivets in the whole rebuild and they are the ones that hold the belly band on.
The screws and bolts were sealed with a polyurethane sealant/adhesive or other caulking.
I installed solar panels with through the roof stainless bolts and elastic stop nuts that look a lot like acorn nuts and used a cutoff wheel like a Dremel tool to cut the screw off flush with the top of the nut when it is on the inside.
My Scamp is insulated with Ensolite and not the rat fur and there should be a washer to distribute the load and if desired they could be painted to blend in with the interior color.
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Old 04-08-2020, 03:17 PM   #20
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You can check out this video, this person epoxies a small piece of wood in and then attaches eyelets to that. His is also to hold a small amount of weight so this may just work for you as well.

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