Installing insulation/vinyl on our Eriba Puck

[Txvwfam]

Hello all!

I've been combing the forums for info/intel on what to do for the interior of our new-to-us '68 Eriba Puck. Previous owner stripped it to the fiber glass. It does NOT have ensolite like most scamps and older trailers and most puck redo-s I've seen look they are almost upholstered interiors? Afraid we are doing this on a teacher budget and need something that will insulate and yet be moldable for the lots of curves and corners in the puck thanks to the top canvas pop-up yet not break us financially. can't seem to find any modern ensolite w vinyl backing and the reflectix seems to be a wash if i'm reading that right thanks to no air space capabilities. So what do I use? Regular upholstery foam covered by marine foam backed headliner? or is that redundant? Thanks in advance for any input.

[likeair2me]

I snagged this from a 2015 post. I hope it gives you something to work with.

"Ensolite foam is still available. The vinyl-coated ensolite product used on the interior of our campers is not. I've also seen it argued that ensolite foam on it's own isn't really the best insulator, and all kinds of other anecdotal information that suggests that it's really not the best solution when used on it's own - the vinyl coated product had the advantage of being an "all in one" solution, but there really is no equivalent single product available today.

What most people do when replacing the ensolite is to glue up a layer (or two) of reflectix insulation and then lay down hull liner on top of that. I removed a section of ensolite below my rear window that I won't be re-installing, instead my plan is to glue in a layer of reflectix where I removed the ensolite and then adhere a layer of vinyl fabric on top of that for a better finished appearance - because it's a relatively flat area I don't anticipate any trouble getting it to fit well, while the same material would definately be problematic in the more curved areas of the camper. I had thought about using hull liner, but it's such a small area that the vinyl won out just by being easier to acquire."

It appears in this photo, that they used something like hull liner (like headliner in cars) and cross stitched the pieces together. https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr38/6...n/photostream/

[Txvwfam]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

I snagged this from a 2015 post. I hope it gives you something to work with.

"What most people do when replacing the ensolite is to glue up a layer (or two) of reflectix insulation and then lay down hull liner on top of that. I removed a section of ensolite below my rear window that I won't be re-installing, instead my plan is to glue in a layer of reflectix where I removed the ensolite and then adhere a layer of vinyl fabric on top of that for a better finished appearance - because it's a relatively flat area I don't anticipate any trouble getting it to fit well, while the same material would definately be problematic in the more curved areas of the camper. I had thought about using hull liner, but it's such a small area that the vinyl won out just by being easier to acquire."

It appears in this photo, that they used something like hull liner (like headliner in cars) and cross stitched the pieces together. https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr38/6...n/photostream/

Thank you! I had seen posts like this, but question why they would have used the reflectix if (1) the glue dulls the reflective quality and therefore invalidates that aspect of use and (2) there is no air space so the R-value becomes nill vs the R-15 to R-20 the material is originally supposed to provide. Wouldn't this style of application simply transfer the heat through the hull to the vinyl then dispersing in the interior? If we are simply adding the ensolite/reflectix/whatever for insulation value, doesnt that end up kind of being money down the drain? And in that case, why not simply use a dense foam like used in upholstery to at least provide some heat/noise reduction? Or would we be able to simply install a foam-backed Marine headliner and save the layers and money?

[rbryan]

I would be shocked if Reflectix is supposed to provide R-15 to R-20. It's more like R 1 to 2 per layer.

[likeair2me]

You are the victim of someone who tore down first, researched later. The old lining was probably in need of a through cleaning instead of trashing. I know someone will chime in here eventually who has suffered the same bungling and the steps they took to remedy it.

[Jon in AZ]

I thought the Eriba Pucks had an aluminum frame and skin on the lower shell and molded fiberglass for the roof only. No?

There have been lots of discussions of the relative merits of foam versus Reflectix. My take is that a quarter inch is pretty much a quarter inch, whatever the material (assuming it's mostly dead air space, of course). The reflective properties of foil bubble wrap are diminished in this application, but it still traps a quarter inch or so of air in and around the bubbles. Combined with the headliner on top, which also traps air in the nap, it seems about as effective in practice as a similar thickness of foam. In any case, you'll still get a lot of heat transfer through windows, vents, pop-top, etc., which makes it somewhat superfluous to go overboard on the walls.

As a first-timer, I would choose Reflectix plus headliner for cost and ease of installation in any application that involves fitting complex curves.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by rbryan

I would be shocked if Reflectix is supposed to provide R-15 to R-20. It's more like R 1 to 2 per layer.

If you read the product specs, you'll find that it does provide R-15 in certain specific applications as a radiant barrier when the shiny surface encloses an open air space. That's where Scamp gets its claim. However, the application of the headliner on top changes the picture. By how much is debated.

[LindaandPat]

Originally Posted by Txvwfam

Thank you! I had seen posts like this, but question why they would have used the reflectix if (1) the glue dulls the reflective quality and therefore invalidates that aspect of use and (2) there is no air space so the R-value becomes nill vs the R-15 to R-20 the material is originally supposed to provide. Wouldn't this style of application simply transfer the heat through the hull to the vinyl then dispersing in the interior? If we are simply adding the ensolite/reflectix/whatever for insulation value, doesnt that end up kind of being money down the drain? And in that case, why not simply use a dense foam like used in upholstery to at least provide some heat/noise reduction? Or would we be able to simply install a foam-backed Marine headliner and save the layers and money?

I built us a studio and installed Reflectix in the ceiling . I followed instructions which had me leave 3/4 in space behind the Reflectix I stapled ,the material to the inside of roof rafters . That air space was very important for insulating . That being said our trailer has Reflectix behind the vinyl covering . Is it doing much good ? Probably not much because it isn't installed as manufacturer intended or as recommended. As long as you know that going in . Maybe check what is being used in the marine industry. Pat

[stude]

Originally Posted by Txvwfam

Hello all!

I've been combing the forums for info/intel on what to do for the interior of our new-to-us '68 Eriba Puck. Previous owner stripped it to the fiber glass. It does NOT have ensolite like most scamps and older trailers and most puck redo-s I've seen look they are almost upholstered interiors? Afraid we are doing this on a teacher budget and need something that will insulate and yet be moldable for the lots of curves and corners in the puck thanks to the top canvas pop-up yet not break us financially. can't seem to find any modern ensolite w vinyl backing and the reflectix seems to be a wash if i'm reading that right thanks to no air space capabilities. So what do I use? Regular upholstery foam covered by marine foam backed headliner? or is that redundant? Thanks in advance for any input.

What about the blow in foam that is sold at Lowes or Home Depot comes in two what look like Propane cylinders if it sticks out to far one can cut it out after it sets. If anyone uses this make sure you face is covered with a mask, and where appropriate clothing and don't get on skin or it will be there until u pass. But it has a good R Value. When installing in small areas it gets mighty hot, I did our Truck Canopy because we slept under it and we got 2" all over and I could sleep in it down to 10*F with a good down Quilt under and on top of us. I had it installed by the people who do homes.
Stude

[Eggman]

Has anyone here ever looked at using a product Lizard Skin? Its a spray on, only mills thick. Not sure what the R factor is, but its used in the Hot Rod world to insulate and another to sound deaden.

[Jon in AZ]

It's been mentioned here before. Beyond that, I can't say, but a search should turn up any previous discussion(s).

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Txvwfam

Hello all!

I've been combing the forums for info/intel on what to do for the interior of our new-to-us '68 Eriba Puck. Previous owner stripped it to the fiber glass. It does NOT have ensolite like most scamps and older trailers and most puck redo-s I've seen look they are almost upholstered interiors? Afraid we are doing this on a teacher budget and need something that will insulate and yet be moldable for the lots of curves and corners in the puck thanks to the top canvas pop-up yet not break us financially. can't seem to find any modern ensolite w vinyl backing and the reflectix seems to be a wash if i'm reading that right thanks to no air space capabilities. So what do I use? Regular upholstery foam covered by marine foam backed headliner? or is that redundant? Thanks in advance for any input.

Are you trying to stay cool or are you trying to stay warm while camping?
Until you know that you won't know how to approach heat control.

Methods to stay cool and methods to stay warm have different approaches available that are the most cost effective. So I would look at what the weather conditions you are going to be camping in the most often and take measures for that rather than trying for an all season solution which is more expensive and more difficult to achieve. So is your primary issue with keeping cool or is it with keeping warm?