Installing levelers on bigfoot trailer - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:06 AM   #1
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Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on installing stabilizer jacks on my 21Ft Bigfoot trailer. In particular something like the BAL Stabilizer jacks http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/...estabjack.shtml

This particular model of bigfoot has no rear bumper, and the body of the trailer kind of wraps the frame.. meaning the sides of the trailer hang lower then the frame. I believe if I were to install the stabilizer jacks, the bolts for the jack would likely be covered by the trailer, or their might not be enough clearance for the bolt..

I guess a block could be welded to the frame to lower the jack, but I'm not keen on having the jack hang that much lower for fear of it dragging on something.

I've seen pictures of similar jacks installed on bigfoots, but none with enough detail to figure out how it was done..

any ideas ?

Thanks,
David
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:23 AM   #2
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Trailer: Bigfoot 25 ft / Dodge 3500HD 4X4 Jake Brake
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I have a 25’, but the frame came with the brakets already welded in place. All I had to do is buy the BAL leveler and bolt it on. Easy-Peasy.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:58 PM   #3
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Mine are similar to Mike's. The rail of the stabilizer is about 1" below the trailer frame rails. There are 6-7" pieces of 90 deg angle stock welded to the trailer frame rails and the stabilizers are bolted to each of those 4 pieces. The stabilizers are not attached to the bumper.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:54 PM   #4
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Awesome -- thanks for the picture!
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:08 AM   #5
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Trailer: 2008 21 ft Bigfoot Rear Bed
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I have C-Jack 22” model by BAL C_JACK installed on my 21RB trailer. Time permitting I will install BAL Power Pack and Atwood wireless controller. C-Jack is one of BAL’s newest products with high lifting capacity and better stabilization than scissor jacks. If you install 22” C-jack the mounting bracket should be 17.43” (number form Norcoind) of the ground in order to have 45 degree at the stabilizing position.

George.

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Old 04-26-2008, 09:39 AM   #6
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Trailer: Bigfoot 21 ft Front Bedroom
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Quote:
Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on installing stabilizer jacks on my 21Ft Bigfoot trailer. In particular something like the BAL Stabilizer jacks http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/...estabjack.shtml

This particular model of bigfoot has no rear bumper, and the body of the trailer kind of wraps the frame.. meaning the sides of the trailer hang lower then the frame. I believe if I were to install the stabilizer jacks, the bolts for the jack would likely be covered by the trailer, or their might not be enough clearance for the bolt..

I guess a block could be welded to the frame to lower the jack, but I'm not keen on having the jack hang that much lower for fear of it dragging on something.

I've seen pictures of similar jacks installed on bigfoots, but none with enough detail to figure out how it was done..

any ideas ?

Thanks,
David
David,

Here are some pictures of the factory install of rear bal stabilizers on my 04 21' Bigfoot.

They welded a 7 inch long piece of 2 inch x 3 inch angle iron to the outside of the rear frames of the trailer. The back of the angle iron is 2 inches forward of the rear of the frame. The bottom of the angle iron is 2 inches below the bottom of the frame. The three inch side is the side welded to the outside of the frame so it has one inch of lap over the frame where the welds were made.
If you need more pictures or measurements let me know. My trailer has front stabilizers also if you need information on that.
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RIMG0045cropped.jpg   RIMG0047cropped.jpg  

RIMG0048cropped.jpg   RIMG0051cropped.jpg  

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Old 04-30-2008, 01:14 AM   #7
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David,

Here are some pictures of the factory install of rear bal stabilizers on my 04 21' Bigfoot.

They welded a 7 inch long piece of 2 inch x 3 inch angle iron to the outside of the rear frames of the trailer. The back of the angle iron is 2 inches forward of the rear of the frame. The bottom of the angle iron is 2 inches below the bottom of the frame. The three inch side is the side welded to the outside of the frame so it has one inch of lap over the frame where the welds were made.
If you need more pictures or measurements let me know. My trailer has front stabilizers also if you need information on that.
thanks Bruce!
if it's not to much to ask, would you mind posting some pictures of the front jacks as well?
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:09 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2003 Honda Odyssey
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I just took my 93 Bigfoot 17.5CB in to Lawson Trailers (Coldwater, ON) to have 2 sets of the BAL double 24" jacks welded on. I had bought the jacks in the States from JC Whitney - MUCH cheaper than trying to buy them in Canada.
The rear set will get welded along the rear frame, the skid bar will have to be moved.
The front one will get welded along the first frame.
Both will have some reinforcement to prevent forward or backward folding, if the trailer is pushed or pulled while jacked!
The rating on the jacks is that they each have sufficient rating to crank the trailer into the air, if needed, as in changing a tire, or adjusting brakes!
I had one set on a L'il Bigfoot 13 that I used to own and was very happy with the convenience. These 'should' work great! Just make sure that you crank them fully up when travelling - they can vibrate down on washboards, if not snugged up tight!
I'll be trailering to KOA Dayton (500+ miles), for the Annual Amateur Radio HamVention, in 2 weeks so am looking forward to 1st outing of the year!
Mike
Penetanguishene, ON
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:58 AM   #9
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I have C-Jack 22” model by BAL C_JACK installed on my 21RB trailer. Time permitting I will install BAL Power Pack and Atwood wireless controller. C-Jack is one of BAL’s newest products with high lifting capacity and better stabilization than scissor jacks. If you install 22” C-jack the mounting bracket should be 17.43” (number form Norcoind) of the ground in order to have 45 degree at the stabilizing position.

George.
Hi George,

When installing the C-jack did did you end up using the extra 'chanel' or was there a cross member in the frame that you could take advantage off ?

Thanks!
David
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Old 05-02-2008, 09:59 AM   #10
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Trailer: Bigfoot 21 ft Front Bedroom
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thanks Bruce!
if it's not to much to ask, would you mind posting some pictures of the front jacks as well?
David,

Same 7" piece of 3" x 2", brackets welded to the front. The front edge of the brackets are 10 inches from the front of the frame.

Bruce
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Old 05-02-2008, 01:58 PM   #11
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Trailer: 2008 21 ft Bigfoot Rear Bed
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Hi George,

When installing the C-jack did did you end up using the extra 'chanel' or was there a cross member in the frame that you could take advantage off ?

Thanks!
David
See attached pictures. In the front you probably could use trailer's cross member but I opted not to. In the rear I think you need to use BAL’s extension channel. I used BAL’s 42” (the longest one) extension. I ordered the trailer without BAL stabilizers used by Bigfoot but unfortunately the trailer came with the brackets. My dealer cut Bigfoot’s brackets off and welded my brackets on. If you interested I can send you TurboCAD file or JPG for my design. Power drives are mounted and wired; I just need to install wireless control.

George.

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Old 05-06-2008, 03:20 PM   #12
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Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2003 Honda Odyssey
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Got my Bigfoot 17.5CB back from Lawson Trailers with the BAL Levelers welded on ($100 labour)!
The front one was installed about 1 foot behind the front transverse frame bar, and the rear one was installed below the rear beam. The skid bar was moved back. This is with keeping with the BAL drawing where a string is pulled from the bottom of the tire to the rear bumper and also to the front of the hitch. The levelers are not supposed to protrude below these lines, for safety. Obviously the skid bar does, to protect the dump outs!
What a pleasure when I backed it into my drive and set it up. No more fiddling with jack stands and fiddly little positioning.
Just a piece of wood under the leg and crank it down. While there isn't much leverage with the spinner handles they supply, they are adequate, but a tire wrench, or other would allow some real muscle, if needed.
I also swapped out the puny propane regulator with the T fitting for the Marshall Automatic Switchover regulator. Now I can swap an empty tank without having to shut everything off and then having to re-purge the air out of the lines. What a pain!
I bought all these items in USA while down there for the Winter. Canadian prices , for the same items, even with our dollar near par, are almost double! Crazy!
Mike.....>
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:13 AM   #13
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Thanks everyone for their help! Lot's to go on now!

Cheers,
David
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