installing propane line for Wave 3 heater

[April Wilcox]

We are going to have to add a line for our Wave 3 propane heater, in order to be able to use it. I wasn't sure if we needed to run a copper line like the one going to the stove, tap off the line that is already going to the stove, or if we can just use the black hose that I have seen used for other portable heaters. We do not plan to permanenetly mount the heater, so we can keep it portable. Anyone know the best way to go about this, I just want to be sure we do it the safest way. I think we are going to get a T valve for the tank. Niether one of us have much experience working with LP gas, so any help will be appreciated.

[Joe Z]

April....
We also have a Wave3 that we use portable and we set it up with a "T" at the tank outside and with the rubber 12' hose and a regulator(low pressure)......I just slip it under the door of the 16' casita we have with the aircraft type door and it works fine like that. If i wanted a more permanent setup i would just junction it off the copper line inside with a quick connect and a shutoff valve for safety..... but as of right now i am happy with the way it's setup.
Joe

[April Wilcox]

Thanks Joe, that sounds like a good solution, to keep it nice and portable. Do you find the 12' hose is long enough? I have seen some longer ones out there, but I don't know if a longer one is needed. I imagine we will keep the heater either right by the door, or on top of the stove. I imagine if we ever permanently mount it, we will run a copper line, but I thought it was good to ask here first, before we buy anything. I found this on Amazon, will this work for our heater?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQRCL8

[Larry&Carrie]

We are going to have to add a line for our Wave 3 propane heater, in order to be able to use it. I wasn't sure if we needed to run a copper line like the one going to the stove, tap off the line that is already going to the stove, or if we can just use the black hose that I have seen used for other portable heaters. We do not plan to permanenetly mount the heater, so we can keep it portable. Anyone know the best way to go about this, I just want to be sure we do it the safest way. I think we are going to get a T valve for the tank. Niether one of us have much experience working with LP gas, so any help will be appreciated.

April---hmmmm I have portable heaters (Mr Heater) plumbed into both trailers, permanent in the Compact and semi-permanent in the Scamp. What I did in the Scamp was cut & "tee" the stove line and then hook a rubber line with a shut valve to the tee and hid the hose in the cupboard. Then when I hook up the heater, pull the hose out thru a hole in the bottom between the cupboard door and the icebox/pantry. The hose comes out enough to put the heater anywhere inside on the floor. In the Compact, since I removed the fridge, I used that copper line, put a shutoff on, then installed a 6' rubber hose. When not in use, the whole works is shoved into that lower cupboard. Only problem I have had is that Mr Heater seems to plug up-- upon research on their website, they recommend a filter when hooking directly to high pressure propane, which is what I have in the Scamp. Larry

[April Wilcox]

I noticed our copper line that is already installed, has a few "flat" spots, the hose isn't kinked, or bent, but pressed flat in a few spots. Is this a hazard? We did not find any leaks in the line, but did in the regulator, so that will be replaced for sure. My first thought was replace the copper line, but Kirk seems to think it's ok.

[Raya]

Hi April,

I'm not "up" on RV standards, but in boats LP-rated hose is the recommended method these days instead of the old, "hard" pipe.

Is there a standard for trailers that is like ABYC for boats? (They spell out how to do things safely --- or at least one way to do it.)

I wonder how the new eggs are being plumbed for LP?

Raya

[Parker Buckley]

Hi April,

I'm not "up" on RV standards, but in boats LP-rated hose is the recommended method these days instead of the old, "hard" pipe.

Is there a standard for trailers that is like ABYC for boats? (They spell out how to do things safely --- or at least one way to do it.)

I wonder how the new eggs are being plumbed for LP?

Raya

Our 04 Scamp 13 uses low pressure hose from the regulator to a bulkhead fitting on the front of the body, then uses 3/8" copper for everything inside the trailer. I'm about to run a new 3/8" line from a tee on the exterior side of the bulkhead fitting, across the front lower edge of the trailer, and back underneath to come up inside the closet area to connect to our Wave 3. Hose would be easier, but I thought I was using the standard method with the copper! Unless there is a compelling reason to switch to hose, I think I'll continue with the copper, especially since this is a permanent installation. I'll post a couple of pics as I go along if anyone is interested.

Parker

[Joe Z]

April....
That link you sent for the regulator will work just fine and the 12' hose works for us as we just keep it in the front of the trailer facing the rear. (take a 12' length of rope and see if it works for you) I would like to someday do like the others and plumb in a permanent hookup but this works for now
Joe

[April Wilcox]

Thanks Joe, I think keeping it simple for now is key, some time soon we want to go out and use the trailer near Austin (Mule Shoe Bend State Park, $5 night the last I was there, is a little gem we found down the road from Pace Bend Park) while it's cold out, and fewer people are going out there to camp. They don't have any hookups, so we will be using battery/propane to power up and keep warm. It will be our first official camping test run without hookups. Of course we won't be going out there until we get our health back in order, darn those pesky holiday bugs, somebody passed along a nice little stomach virus to us over turkey day. But the worst is over and we are on the mend, ready to take life on again!

Here is another question: Should the T go on the tank first then the regulators for each junction? Or should it be the regulator first then the T?? The only other line we will be using right now will be for the stove, which we might not use, since we have a coleman stove.

I am still unsure about the flat spots in our copper line running to the stove. Should I be concerned about them? They don't appear to be so flat that the gas can not get through, just look like something that needed to be addressed.

[Vi Turner]

Thanks Joe, I think keeping it simple for now is key, some time soon we want to go out and use the trailer near Austin (Mule Shoe Bend State Park, $5 night the last I was there, is a little gem we found down the road from Pace Bend Park) while it's cold out, and fewer people are going out there to camp. They don't have any hookups, so we will be using battery/propane to power up and keep warm. It will be our first official camping test run without hookups. Of course we won't be going out there until we get our health back in order, darn those pesky holiday bugs, somebody passed along a nice little stomach virus to us over turkey day. But the worst is over and we are on the mend, ready to take life on again!

Here is another question: Should the T go on the tank first then the regulators for each junction? Or should it be the regulator first then the T?? The only other line we will be using right now will be for the stove, which we might not use, since we have a coleman stove.

I am still unsure about the flat spots in our copper line running to the stove. Should I be concerned about them? They don't appear to be so flat that the gas can not get through, just look like something that needed to be addressed.

April, can you tell me where you got the Wave 3, and if I can be so bold as to ask, about what did it cost? The ones I've seen are $$$! Thanks, Vi

[April Wilcox]

sure... I found it on ebay slightly used but still looks new, it cost about $200 including shipping. New they are about $250 or more, so keep an eye on ebay, I have seen many used ones going through there.

[Jake Jacobson]

April, can you tell me where you got the Wave 3, and if I can be so bold as to ask, about what did it cost? The ones I've seen are $$! Thanks, Vi

Amazon has them for $210 brand new:

http://www.amazon.com/Olympian-57331-Wave-...r/dp/B000BUV1RK

[April Wilcox]

good find Jake!

[Pete Dumbleton]

I wouldn't be concerned about the flat spots safety-wise but if they are too restrictive you might have trouble running heater and range at the same time.

[April Wilcox]

that's good... I just thought it wouldn't hurt to mention it, since they concerned me. I just ordered a 12' hose w/regulator on Amazon.

So can you use one regulator and put the T on that? Or should we use 2 different regulators for the 2 lines?

Thanks again for all the advice!!

[Joe Z]

April....
My "T" on the outside tank is before the regulator so i have a low pressure regulator on the tank side of the rubber hose and that regulator goes into the "T" on the outside tank "T". If you "T" in after the regulator on the trailer ( which is a different type of fitting) then you won't need another regulator as it is already on low pressure (which is what the heater needs).....
To make things really simple sometimes i just bring an extra 20lb tank from home and just put my regulator and rubber hose into that extra tank........ There are so many ways to do this and this is just one of many.
Joe

[April Wilcox]

Joe, could you tell me more about the part that connects the hose to the heater? I will probably need one of those too.
Thanks for the pix!

[Joe Z]

Joe, could you tell me more about the part that connects the hose to the heater? I will probably need one of those too.
Thanks for the pix!

April.....
That part that connects the rubber hose to the heater is nothing more than a homemade "L" .... Looking at the picture below you will see the 90 degree elbow which hooks to a piece of copper tubing that is sandwitched in between the two fittings. The hose I bought at Tractor supply and can be hooked to your heater without the "L" (the rubber hose end is the same fitting size that is at the end of my "L")....that part just happened to be on the heater when i purchased it used and i almost didn't use it as it wasn't needed.
Joe

[April Wilcox]

Thanks again!

[Parker Buckley]

[quote]April.....
That part that connects the rubber hose to the heater is nothing more than a homemade "L" .... Looking at the picture below you will see the 90 degree elbow which hooks to a piece of copper tubing that is sandwitched in between the two fittings. The hose I bought at Tractor supply and can be hooked to your heater without the "L" (the rubber hose end is the same fitting size that is at the end of my "L")....that part just happened to be on the heater when i purchased it used and i almost didn't use it as it wasn't needed.
Joe


Attachment 17102

The "factory version" of that is available from Camco Manufacturing, which sells the Wave heaters. To quote their description: 90 degree elbow, 3/8" SAE mail with 3/8" SAE female connector. Full 360 degree swivel." Part number is 57633. I'm using one at each end of my copper line; one at the heater and one where I'm teeing into the existing system. At the heater end, it makes it possible to convert the side exiting connector to one that aims straight back, or up, or whatever you choose, in very little space. Cost is 11.95 plus shipping, so they're a bit pricey, but they have advantages in close quarters. Phone number to order is 800 334 2004. www.uscatalytic.com, but their website is not very good. You might search and find a better deal. They're not available at Lowes, but haven't checked elsewhere.

Parker