Interior fiberglass

[HarryLloyd]

Hi guys,
I’m new to the world of fiberglass campers and need some advice on the interior shell. We just bought a 1972
“Tote and Tarry” (scamp) as a fixer upper.
The previous owner rebuilt the old frame, replaced the axle, and took the outer shell apart. In separating the shell it appears that he removed the wide interior belly band by
Cutting approximately an inch or so from both the upper and lower interior shells.
This leaves a 2”to 3”gap all the way around the inside of the camper. Is this going to be a structural problem? Any advice is welcome.

[parmm]

Post some pictures!

[Jon in AZ]

There are a number of methods used to join the top and bottom shells together. Agree that a photo of both the inside and the outside of the belly band would be helpful, along with a close-up plus a wider shot for perspective.

From archive photos the Tote & Tarry appears just like a Scamp. If so, the upper shell was set on top of the lower and clamped on the outside using protruding lips that serve as a mating surface for the two pieces. A strip of fiberglass was laid along the seam on the inside to bond them together, then the clamps were removed and the belly band trim (cosmetic only) riveted in place to cover the rough edges of the outer lip.

If the previous owner separated the top and bottom, they had to cut that inside strip of fiberglass. Assuming they put it back together like the factory, you will need to replace that strip of fiberglass. You might need to do some cutting and smoothing first if remnants of the old strip are protruding.

However, there seems to be the possibility the previous owner re-connected the two halves in some other way. You said they cut off an inch from top and bottom. That would seem to indicate they cut off the whole lip. Then I would have no idea what is holding it together. Pictures are needed.

[HarryLloyd]

You can actually see light coming through outer shell.

[HarryLloyd]

Thanks Jon,
The better way to get at what I need to know is to ask, can I just eliminate the lower interior fiberglass shell altogether without compromising any structural integrity to the camper?

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by HarryLloyd

You can actually see light coming through outer shell.

Why would you want to remove the liner shell? What would you replace it with?

As for repairing it, I think it would be fairly easy. Look at the two threads below on how you might repair it:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ass-52498.html

This one is about the exterior of the trailer, but kind of similar to your situation.
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-59580.html

[HarryLloyd]

Jon,
The outer lip is intact and rivited back together, I have the outer belly band to put back in place. The separate interior shells are what have been cut. As for Davids question “ Why would I want remove the lower interior half?” I’m not going to, just need to know since it is cut away from the upper and the camper can still be hauled around without the upper shell falling, what is holding it up and should I worry about reconnecting them? Can I just rivet a wider belly band over the separated halves to hide the missing fiberglass?

[HarryLloyd]

Thanks for the info for joining the two outer shells. My concern is the inner shells only, it seems that the upper “inner”shell is just floating without anything supporting it at the moment. It must be glued in along the top to the outer shell. If I rebuild and reinstall the door side closet and add a brace on the kitchen side between the upper and lower cabinets, do you think that would be enough to support the upper inside shell?

[Jon in AZ]

The Tote & Tarry doesn’t have an inner shell. It has a number of separate fiberglass cabinet and bench modules. And yes, they provide support for the upper half of the exterior shell. The two you mentioned are the most important, and you are on the right track.

The outer belly band is not normally riveted as shown. The inside fiberglass along the seam provides the connection and seal. The metal trim is riveted in place for appearance. Apply a bead of non-silicone caulk between the top edge of the trim and the shell to keep water from flowing under the trim.

[HarryLloyd]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

The Tote & Tarry doesn’t have an inner shell. It has a number of separate fiberglass cabinet and bench modules. And yes, they provide support for the upper half of the exterior shell. The two you mentioned are the most important, and you are on the right track.
.

Thanks Jon,
This Tote & Tarry has an interior fiberglass floor, benches front and rear with lower kitchen cabinets. All these features are molded together as one single unit and unattached to the outer shell. The inside sealing is of course unattached to the lower molded fiberglass unit and has the upper kitchen cabinets molded to it. I’m sure I’m wrong, but these are what I’m calling the interior shells. I’m not worried about the lower interior unit, just need to properly supporting the upper unit.

[Jon in AZ]

Thanks for clarifying that. That is more like a Trillium than a Scamp and complicates restoration.

I’m still a bit unclear how the upper cabinets are made and attached to the shell.

As to covering the exposed inner belly band seam, seems like you’ll need to apply some kind of lining to the parts of the outer shell not covered by the inside shell. You’ll need it for insulation and condensation co troll as well as appearance.

[HarryLloyd]

Hi John,
Thanks for being so patient with me. The upper kitchen cabinets are molded into/with the upper interior shell. After considering what you’ve told me, I believe my best way forward is to apply a good fiberglass tape along the gap between the upper and lower interior shells, overlapping both the upper and lower interior shells attaching them both to the outer body. I then would rebuild the door side closet and add a support between the upper and lower kitchen cabinets. What do you think?

[Jon in AZ]

The patience has all been on your part. Now that I finally got a good look at your last set of photos on my laptop, it all makes sense. I did not know there were any manufacturers using a full double hull with a top-bottom split. Learned something new.

Others may chime in with different ideas, but I'm not sure you need to fiberglass over that gap. There doesn't seem to be a support issue. To fiberglass it, I think you'd need to rig some kind of backing. What if you just covered it with a padded, upholstered trim belt?

[HarryLloyd]

Jon,
I should have posted better photos to begin with, glad we’re finally on the same page.
I think I will run a course of fiberglass cloth tape around the gap between the upper and lower interior shells. This should join the two together and affix them both in place. I then will rebuild the door side closet and install a decorative brace between the upper and lower kitchen cabinets. I think this will alleviate my concerns. Any thoughts?

[HarryLloyd]

Never mind about our previous conversations. I just got a quote on a paint job for my little 13’ Tote and Tarry.
$12,500......!!!!!!!!!! How can this be???
😳🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮

[FRED SMAILES]

Nobody works for nothing and materials are VERY EXPENSIVE!!!
Cheap auto paint is somewhere around $1200 a gallon alone.
Labour in a decent shop,,, what $100+ hr.
Plus the fact maybe they didnt actually want to do it but for the quoted number,, ok.
Id try to get more than one quote and a breakdown,, "why so much?"
I have painted cars and years ago prepped and painted our boler,, it is a ton a work.
This last time I did a "roll and tip" paint job with Brightside boat paint. No it certainly isn't high quality but looks just fine.