|
|
02-09-2021, 06:08 PM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
Interior or exterior finish first?
Afternoon everyone, I am currently rebuilding a 73' 13'er for our daughter. I have learned so much from this forum, many thanks to everyone. I have built a new frame, new rear floor, roughly 80 hrs since November 2020 fiberglassing, sanding, gelcoat, sanding, painting ect. Very tiring, yet fun. A ton of my time has been spent repairing and improving the interior FG furniture pieces. I am aspiring perfectionist who struggles (very much) to be one, but its coming along. My question to you is, should I finish the interior first, or paint the outside. I can see many Pro/Cons to each. I pan to roll and tip, Total boat marine products, fighting lady yellow below and oyster white on top. Interior will be completely redone except the ensolite, which so many convinced me to leave. I just need to caulk the seams and paint. New electrical, brand new 3 way Dometic. New electrical with power center and lighting.
The biggest I see of completing the outside is, having a nicely painted unit sitting vulnerable to the next month of in and out working on the inside. Suggestions?
Some pics of the stages...early on
|
|
|
02-09-2021, 06:11 PM
|
#2
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
New Frame and cabinet mods
|
|
|
02-09-2021, 06:12 PM
|
#3
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
More cabinet mods, new rear floor and windows pulled
|
|
|
02-09-2021, 06:14 PM
|
#4
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
Dry fit to make sure everything still fits!
|
|
|
02-09-2021, 06:16 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,137
|
On the exterior, paint last, once everything else is done. Otherwise, you will tend to mar your beautiful paint job as you fix stuff.
On the inside, I'd paint cabinets prior to installing them. Easier paint when they are sitting in a workshop, than once they are inside the trailer.
Doing some great work there!
|
|
|
02-09-2021, 06:23 PM
|
#6
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
Thanks Bill, I agree completely with your strategy. I guess my biggest concern with be, whatever I use to secure the cabinets (Cap screws, bolts or rivets) and the paint. It will be hard to paint nicely around them/overtop
|
|
|
02-09-2021, 08:44 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
|
On my Boler 1700, I used stainless machine screws together with washers and nylock nuts to re-secure cabinets and benches. I used color matched removable (not hinged) plastic caps. If you decide to go this route, you could take off the caps and mask the snap cap bases while painting the exterior.
To seal the snap cap bases to the body, I used butyl but a marine sealant could instead be used.
|
|
|
02-10-2021, 08:25 AM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,175
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sspence
Thanks Bill, I agree completely with your strategy. I guess my biggest concern with be, whatever I use to secure the cabinets (Cap screws, bolts or rivets) and the paint. It will be hard to paint nicely around them/overtop
|
Have you considered glassing in some wood blocks and mounting the interior pieces to those? Would eliminate all bolts/screws through body. I used that method on a rear over cabinet, works great.
Some pics here around post 97 in the signature link
Fred
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...3&d=1374471904
|
|
|
02-10-2021, 09:59 AM
|
#9
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
Morning Fred....I really do like the overall finished product of the glassed in blocks better yes...I just need to decide if I want to cut the ensolite an mess around with all the steps...sounds lazy, but I know the process and it is a large one....Rethinking it now...
|
|
|
02-10-2021, 11:18 AM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
|
Since you are installing wood cabinets and fitting them to the contour of the shell I would glue and screw them in place from the outside.
I used aircraft cowling washers and screws sealed when installed with a good quality sealant and adhesive. I used polyurethane adhesive and sealant.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...s/04-00398.php
100* SS screws to match the above washers.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...1207-C10-8.php
I used these and then painted over them.
The result was a very solid shell, reinforced by the cabinets making it a monolithic
structure.
|
|
|
02-10-2021, 10:49 PM
|
#11
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES
Have you considered glassing in some wood blocks and mounting the interior pieces to those? Would eliminate all bolts/screws through body. I used that method on a rear over cabinet, works great.
Some pics here around post 97 in the signature link
Fred
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...3&d=1374471904
|
So fred...I went for the glassed in blocks. They worked very well and are extremely sturdy. I also started caulking the seams in the ensolite, better than I figured it would end up! Thx for the push 😁
|
|
|
02-11-2021, 06:19 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
|
With the cabinets bonded to the glass , glued and screwed there will be no leaks at the fasteners. The leaks at the pop rivets are because of the poor fastening differential movement between the shell and the inside part. Properly bonded and sealed there will be no movement and no loosening and no leaks.
Look at the rear cabinets in the Scamp. They are wooded and they just used wood screws with no particular sealant and ! Surprise ! no leaks there.
Glue and screw and relax. You will have a tight, stiff, leak free ( at those screws, still can leak at the windows.)camper.
|
|
|
02-11-2021, 07:37 AM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,175
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sspence
So fred...I went for the glassed in blocks. They worked very well and are extremely sturdy. I also started caulking the seams in the ensolite, better than I figured it would end up! Thx for the push ��
|
Right on! Now your farther than I in that dept. my sink area and closet are still rivited.
Fred
You work pretty quick, but after looking over your work area in the pics
things would probably go faster if you didnt have to walk across that MONSTER shop to get a clamp,,,, beauty!
|
|
|
02-11-2021, 08:33 AM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
|
Yep I envy that shop and would love to have one like that, including the tall overhead door.
|
|
|
02-11-2021, 10:02 AM
|
#15
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
Haaaaa, I thought you were referring to the HUGE mess I have, tough to keep a clean shop at this stage! Soon. I'm doing the final stages of prep to paint the inside furniture, paint the inside and then install time. I also thought last night I may paint the top first, then continue with the bottoms section. I have heard that with the windows out they can take a different shape and make it tough to re install the front and rear, any truth?
|
|
|
02-11-2021, 10:06 AM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sspence
have heard that with the windows out they can take a different shape and make it tough to re install the front and rear, any truth?
|
Not the windows as much as the interior cabinets help support the shell, yes. A floor-to-ceiling brace is a good idea. A 2x4 between pieces of plywood is one way to do that. Wedge the 2x4 in place to apply a little upward pressure.
|
|
|
02-11-2021, 10:33 AM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sspence
I have heard that with the windows out they can take a different shape and make it tough to re install the front and rear, any truth?
|
Re-installing the front and rear windows I have read can be challenging. Google other threads in this forum for proper technique for putting in the rubber seals. Some people just have a glass shop do it.
|
|
|
02-14-2021, 03:12 PM
|
#18
|
Junior Member
Name: Scott
Trailer: 45' allegro bus 45 - 73 13' boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
|
1st coat of primer went well. 3/4 gallon used
|
|
|
02-17-2021, 04:57 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Name: Eric
Trailer: Boler
TN
Posts: 190
|
I would suggest Paint the exterior before installing the windows. Once the exterior is completed you can install all your lights and make sure everything works.
Of course I tend to work inside and outside depending on the day, how I feel, what parts I have available and how bad my ADD is that day.
|
|
|
02-17-2021, 05:34 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|