Interior walls - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-31-2012, 07:04 PM   #21
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Okay, Donna is going to say this... it would take cans and cans of Flex Seal to give you any kind of sound deadening.. if it even insulates? And I'd worry about outgassing inside the trailer. I wonder if it would even take paint without flaking from the trailer walls flexing? Should be interesting to hear what you find out.

I mention the sound... if you've never been in an uninsulated trailer in a heavy rain storm... well, imagine turning a bucket over your head. Not bad during the day, but might drive you nutz at night when you're trying to sleep. Besides, insulation helps with condensation problems and it CAN be a problem in these small molded trailers in Spring/Fall let alone winter.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:35 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by imbabyh View Post
So has anyone used Flex Seal? We are now considering not insulating and just applying something paintable. He thought of the Flex Seal commercial of the boat with the screen door bottom. lol
I have emailed the company to see if it is safe for interior use of this type and if there is an off gas issue. It is sprayable and paintable. Could be a very good possibilty!!
Opinion?
By the way I love you guys and gals!! My husband laughs his butt of as I tell him about my post and replies each day....Paul said this.....Donna said that.....etc. Its awesome knowledge and makes us less apprehensive making decisions that we are need to make.
Thanks to all!!
Flex Seal is identical to spray on bedliner, same thing and spray on bedliner is cheaper at Walmart, about $8 per can. That being said, you would be better off using the roll on stuff, it is also paintable. But I would use neither on the inside of an egg.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:39 AM   #23
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Hey Heather,
Paul says this ... I saw a consumer report on our local news too see if this Flex Seal really delivers. It works less than half the time. Our news guy was swimming after he put his screen door boat in the water! So you'd have to shallack the heck out of your play pac. Imagine how sore your finger would be after your 14th can rattle can of flex seal! not to mention, you guys would be higher than a kite. I'm not offering much here other than to say the flex seal is kind of gimmicky so proceed there with caution. But I am interested in what you do decide on. I finished bonding some wood blocks inside to portions of my now exposed roof (going to fiberglass them in today so I have something i can bolt the new column to, which will fix our roof and door sag once and for all). T do that, i had to cut through the thick insulation I mentioned, and also to rewire my running lights internally I cut it there too ... The paper mâché on the ceiling is not so pretty anymore so I plan to cover the whole shebang woth some kind of material as a headliner and am interested to see what you guys end up doing. Depending on who gets to this fun exciting detail first, (i consider this finishing work and boy do i have a long way to go before putting the wraps on my sieve, errr, i mean Play Pac!), lets keep in touch!
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:50 AM   #24
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Good morning all.....thanks for the reponse on the flexseal.....yet another options......bites the dust...lol
Spend yesterday pulling out all the old vinyl ugggghhhhh, so nasty, dirty and moldy under there, stink bugs, spiders and mold.............oh my! We also prepped the floor for new plywood.....and took out the sun roof, and removed all the old caulk and sealeant. Sunroof will go back in today using RTV gasket maker. And hopefully work on the floor.
I think at this point because I havent come up with an easier way that we will go with the foam puzzle piece aproach....and if I hate it I will do the paper mache like Paul spoke of. I am not crazy about the rainbow effect that has been seen in threads here, nore do I want gray or black. The wood grain is nice but I think it would be very busy and difficult to keep the grain lines straight. I searched and searched and found this website that has a variety of solid colors including white this makes me very happy, www.softtiles.com. They also have the larger 2x2 which I I think might be easier and after testing at Lowes are more flexable due to sixe than the 1x1. We figured it would take 150 - 1x1 ($1.45p) or 75 - 2x2 ($5.80p) at a cost of $450! I might find the colored cheaper but I just cant go with all that color. I want a clean and simply palette inside. I will continue to research. That being said.........contact options I have heard about are Lepache contact cement and liquid nalis......does anyone have a prefernce. Also im gonna research a product to put on the shell before I put up anything to kill any mold spores!!

So got to ask.....can fiberglass be attached to fiberglass? My preference for the interior would be the same as the outside! Does that even make sense?
Hope yall have a great day!!
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:02 AM   #25
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Oh the flooring is 3/4 inch tongue and grove plywood. Heavy yes, but since it not the whole floor we feel the weight will be ok. We are not reflooring under all benches or cabinets as they are all sound. We are going to do a floating flooring, applying a layer of Tyvek moisture barrier, and then the flooring. I picked two sheets with no marks (Lowes guy was not happy as I looked for the "perfect" sheet! I plan on using several layers in polyurathene, and this will be our finished flooring as well. The cabinets and benchs I am still planning on using kilz and painting them.
We are planning on having the exterior professionally rhino coated as well.

I do see the light at the end of the long tunnel.................are we there yet??
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:10 AM   #26
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Check out reply #8 on this post.
Eddie
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ons-39505.html
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:12 AM   #27
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BC Dave,
I'd love to purchase this product- it's exactly what I wanted for sound barrier, and insulation upgrade to my 84 Fiberstream. My trillium had ensolite, sooooo sound proof! That's the one negative I don't like about my fiberstream. Can I purchase this through you?
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:20 AM   #28
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Hi Eddie,
Thanks for replying. I saw this thread and have considered that option. Paul, the new owner of that PP, has stated that the spray insulation has begun to give and is saggin. Can see his comments in this thread. Insulation is obvious the major factor here. So just hoping to make the best choice. From the hundred of thread it seems one of the two I mentioned are the better option.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:26 PM   #29
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BC Dave,
I'd love to purchase this product- it's exactly what I wanted for sound barrier, and insulation upgrade to my 84 Fiberstream. My trillium had ensolite, sooooo sound proof! That's the one negative I don't like about my fiberstream. Can I purchase this through you?
Cyndi

Yes I can brew up a batch for you

What color would you like it to be? (White is what I mostly get asked for in doing the insides of car doors, while gray seems to be preferred for doing inside the trunk of a car.)

How much do you need/want?

It is water based so is water clean up, and (mostly) odor free.

Odor - free when dry, and as waterproof as any exterior paint

In thinking about it, I sort of suspect that ONE coat would be about equivalent to ensolite in terms of sound and heat insulation, with those properties improving with additional coats, but I since I never thought of it for this use until this thread came along - I do not have any data for comparison. It can painted onto any paintable surface

And I wish I had thought of using it for this purpose years ago! (duh!)
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:08 PM   #30
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And then all I gotta do is figure out how to ship it to you! (not sure how one ships a paint-like product across country!)
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:00 PM   #31
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Hey Heather,
I am interested to know how your removal of the dome went. I know they are a big source of leaking on most of the Play Pacs and was considering removing mine eventually and redoing it with butyl tape until Jim Riddle mentioned during his removal that the dome was so brittle it cracked! Now he just put plywood over the hole and no more dome.

Not sure if want to risk that as those bad-boys must cost a ton to replace!
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:49 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by BCDave View Post
And then all I gotta do is figure out how to ship it to you! (not sure how one ships a paint-like product across country!)
BCDave, I would be interested in some too if you figure out the shipping. How many gallons for three good coats on a play pac? More than 3? Might be better in a 5 gal option only. Shipping cost is probably gonna be high though.
But keep us posted.

That being said............you commented about not thinking about this products use on fb campers until Donna brought it up, ummmm Donna was replying to MY bringing it up......can I get a finders fee??? Or maybe a discount.....say free shipping, lol!! j/k

Keep us posted!
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:10 AM   #33
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Hey Heather,
I am interested to know how your removal of the dome went. I know they are a big source of leaking on most of the Play Pacs and was considering removing mine eventually and redoing it with butyl tape until Jim Riddle mentioned during his removal that the dome was so brittle it cracked! Now he just put plywood over the hole and no more dome.

Not sure if want to risk that as those bad-boys must cost a ton to replace!
Paul, we had no issue with removing the dome, other than it took two. Ours was in with the nut outside and the bolt inside, so ernie held the bolt and I unscrewed them from the inside. Most of the bolts snapped as they were rusty. We replaced with the nut on the inside, we also used a sm. washer with a rubber seal on the outside to help with leaks, and a larger washer on the inside for added support. It does have a few surface cracks that we plan to fill with resin. The way the area is inset is half the reason it leaks, that little ring just holds water. So we will probably keep the camper covered when not in use to keep the water from standing there.
If you have seen the other post here I have been talking to BCDave about a product for insulation that is a painted on and is paintable. I am waiting to see if the details can be worked out, and if so this is probably what I will use to redo the walls.
If not I have found at www.getrung.com 3/8" foam mats with edges at a super low cost. We want to use the larger 2x2 and have figured a need for 75 pieces (150 for 1x1). This company sell a pack of 6 plus borders, I would purchase 14 packs (84 tiles plus borders) for $270! Until i found this company, $450 was the least expensive I had found but they were 5/8". I don't feel the slighly smaller will make that much difference anywhere other than my pocketbook. And I love the idea of the bordes to work with. If you go to the site you can osign-up for free color samples to be sent. I will go with either the tan or the white.
Still weighing which adhesive to use.
Would you have a suggestion for replacing the lights?
Thanks!!
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:30 AM   #34
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Glad you found something that may work for you Heather. But before you buy tubes of adhesive, be sure to test the foam. It may melt rather than stick? Maybe the manufacturer can give you some adhesive tips.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:42 AM   #35
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Smile

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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Glad you found something that may work for you Heather. But before you buy tubes of adhesive, be sure to test the foam. It may melt rather than stick? Maybe the manufacturer can give you some adhesive tips.

Thanks Donna i will do that. Most people here have said contact cement or liquid nails. Guess i cn test on my samples.
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:17 PM   #36
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thanks for the info about the dome ... i really want to tackle, but it is really under a thick layer of what i think is rubber roof paint. thing is, at one time, the owner before the last one - painted it from the inside! can you believe they painted over what makes these things so extraordinary (and leaky!)??? so the P.O did his best to remove the paint, and then i got up in there with my polisher and buffed it for a whole day to get it as sparkling as ever - but there is still the issue of silicone and what appears to be butyl tape leftovers all over the base of it. wold be so nice to remove it and buff all of this stuff, and re-seat it properly and utilize some fresh butyl tape and start over. just not sure if i want to open that pandora's box ... if you have any photos of your disassembly or what the opening looks like with the dome removed, i can see if it is something i should tackle. if you dont no worries (i ALWAYS forget to take before and during photos!).

are you talking about replacing the running lights? i just installed 14 new LEDs (after some wiring drama - but the good folks here talked me through it and off the ledge!). got them on eBay for only $0.30 more than their incandescent counterparts (it was like $0.55 for and incandescent 1895 bulb replacement and $0.88 for the LED 1895 bulb). for the energy savings, the brightness, and the fact that they will likely last a lot longer than their counterparts, i think it was an awesome deal. if you are talking about these let me know and i will send you the link to the seller.
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:33 PM   #37
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Hey Paul, ok so im on the naughty list for taken before pics sorry I will try to do better. I do not think anyone has every taken our dome out. There was some sort of brown caulk on the outside but that is it. So it was fairly simple. Not sure I would want to tackle yours either with all the layers!! Kinda scary.
Thanks for the light info...please send link. Suggestions for interior. I have the old light in the back above the sitting area and one by the Kitchen sink. Both work but I would like something alittle more up to date. As mine is a '71 updaying should be too hard, lol! The one over the table is one I am most concerned about cause I dont really want to screw holes in the roof to insall, the old one is installed with rivets.

So what was your thought on the foam pads? 3/8vs 5/8s? is this still what you are planning to do?

Please send light link...
Thanks!
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Old 04-04-2012, 05:36 AM   #38
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Now im seriously considering gutting my fiberstream to apply this product that BCDave mentions to every bit of the interior walls. - hey! If im gonna do it, i might as well do it right, no? Wat is everyone elses opinion? That being said, because i so dislike the old wood particle board cabinets- i hav inquired on this site about covering the cabinets w a veneer wood panel which doesnt seem to be a logical solution- should i then just replace all the cabinets w new? Will these ikea cabinets work? They are stylish and inexpensive. Then of course, i hear from others about keeping the trailer as original as possible. Any serious upgrades, cabinet replacement, takes away from its value. My thoughts are, regardless, the trailer is as worth as much to the right buyer.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:34 AM   #39
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To BCDave,
I called UPS Hazardous Materials Support Center directly at 1-800-554-9964. Because the item is water-based, it can be shipped. I would be interested in 5 gallons. PM me and we can arrange everything.
Thanks a bunch! Now- I think I should gut the Fiberstream and do this the right way!!!
Cyndi
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:57 AM   #40
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Cyndi, I say do what makes YOU happy! Life is too short and though these are collectable in a sense, I intend to use the heck outta mine and make it just right. Having said that, I have seen some pretty knuckle headed things done to these, but it sounds like you are trying to class up the joint and yeah, the right buyer will either appreciate it or consider it a canvas to do with it what they want.

Our play pac has issues - I so wish it was closer to original, but in no way did that stop me from getting it. Now that it's been so heavily modified, I am not afraid to make my own!

Hey Heather - no worries! These mods are so time consuming and stressful that thinking to take a picture is usually the last thing on my mind. The real pros here who ENJOY doing this kinda stuff not only take great photos of the step by step, but they make it look easy! I run home after work and think "ok, I have one hour of light left, what can I do ... hmmm, I think I'll sit in my gutted play Pac for 59 minutes just staring, mouth breathing ... and wondering what I got myself into. Then I will spend that last minute actually getting ready to do something, and ... oops, it's dinner time. Better save it for tomorrow (and repeat above).

I have no idea what I'm doing but I figure if I measure twice, cut once, and rely on my 'study sessions' right here on this awesome forum, then I might have a chance. Thing is with these old eggs, you don't want to make too many mistakes or else you end up with a playhouse for your kids.

Thanks for the info on the dome. Yeah I might just leave it be and just clean it up further down to the base and hope the 3 to 4 coats of bed liner will add more waterproofing. It isn't leaking at all and I think my door is really the culprit of my water intrusion. I noticed also that the wet plywood was only after I pressure washed it twice. I would gander that unless I am in a hurricane rain doesn't usually hit it that hard sideways so in a normal situation I might fair well anyway.

Ok, so you were talking about interior lights. We don't have a one! Yup, they either never existed or were removed. I know some play pacs had them overhead and they are the usual old school lights. You can replace these with new LED light kit counterparts which are much brighter and use a fraction of the energy. Since I dont have any, I don't know too much about them but I have seen many here do a similar retrofit. Regarding rivets, you might remove the old light and a short section of 1x4, glue it to the ceiling and glass it in - then you can screw the light to that? I fiberglassed my wood in but it will be supporting a heavy load and I didn't want to take chances. With just a light you might not need to go that far. Here is a link to Kevin's Boler redo ... see how he does the wood blocks (his videos were my guide).

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...r-41679-3.html

Check out the whole thread too - he makes some very helpful videos, which beat trying to describe some obscure modification concept (read on and you will understand!).

Having no lights of my own, I am doing some nutty stuff. I went to IKEA and bought a bunch of really nice LEDs - I posted here somewhere all about it.

I bought some plastic gutter downspouts (4x4" at home depot) will rip them lengthwise in half, and using the same technique i just used to glass wood to the ceiling and floor, i will glass small blocks of wood to the walls close to the ceiling, bolt some brackets to the wood and attach the ripped spouts (with the open side facing up) to them so the top edges are just a couple of inches below the ceiling - all the way around the entire interior. Inside them i will lay a couple of daisy-chained LED rope lights i bought a while back and ... RV soffit lighting! Does this make any sense? If not, i will be certain to take a bunch of photos. Once we finish the interior and repaint they will look like they are part of the walls. i think it will be very elegant and on a more utilitarian note, since i have that insulation covering the entire interior, i can use these soffits to run other wiring to and fro inside my play pac. I also got some really cool puck lights that gimbal like track lights and I plan to install those in the underside of the soffits at the rear and another really nice light strip that will hang over the kitchen sink/counter, so we should be well lit even if we miss happy hour!

As for foam pads inside, I think it's a pretty clever idea. Since my walls and ceiling are all covered up with 1" foam insulation, I won't need to do much more than find some kind of headliner (some thin material probably like what I had in my old UHAUL camper) just to cover up my mess from adding in the column. I would say that we stay pretty warm in there and dry. With our door sagging, we do lose some warm air (but after my fix I hope this goes away). If your door shuts nice and tight, then you might not need to worry about getting it too thick. Hopefully those here who have already done this might be able to follow up on how their foam squares are working for them?

Regarding replacing the running lights here is the link to the bulbs:
2X White T4W 233 BA9S BA9 1895 7 LED Side Light Lamp Bulb DC 12V NEW | eBay

Take lots of pictures! At the very least a couple of years down the road when you are doing a repair and wondering was the wire here or there, you can go back and save a lot of time and worry!
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