Interior walls - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-04-2012, 06:41 PM   #41
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Cyndi, I agree with Paul, it's your trailer do what makes you happy. My only concern is weight, from what I understand the Fiberstream has one of the wimpiest frames built for a travel trailer. Frederick would be the one to ask, I think he's mentioned it several times. You definitely don't want frame problems!
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:09 PM   #42
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Name: Heather
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Chet View Post
With our door sagging, we do lose some warm air (but after my fix I hope this goes away).
Hey Paul, You mentioned working on your door. I have discovered today that mine is not flush. Closes but the bottom corner on the unhinged side is a big gap. cant see any real reason for it. Just kinda sags there. Got any suggestions? I need a lock too, as there is no lock on the inside of the door. Cant say that its missing, just doesnt seem to have ever been one. Also need one window opener thing, lol! I have no idea what to call it. Is there a place to get replacements?

Ernie spent today working on the floor..............I worked on the other side on the house in the garden.
It was very noisy on his side of the house with a few choice words to boot. gonna have to weld 2-3 support brackets underneath for more support, as the new floor gives way to much! So frustrating!!

We are now thinking we are gonna have bedliner put on the bottom half including underneath and the trailer and the top half painted.


Happy Easter!!
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:30 PM   #43
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Hey Heather,

It seems as though this is not just a play PAC issue but it happens to many other of the eggs. It is absolutely the crux of my problem with our beloved little 'Bac Pac' ...

So there are a number of factors contributing to the sag - first of all, unlike the driver's side (with the bathroom), the passenger side has no weight bearing support. To top this off, there is a huge hole cut into the side of the fiberglass ... The door! This weakens the design even more. If you look across the play pac, you will see three points of structural contact - mini studs on each side of the bathroom door and one at the corner of the cabinets right next to the door (closest to the rear of the camper). That side should be just peachy - tons of support and no big hole. The other side is kind of a head scratcher, especially sinc our very special little pieces of history have yet another hole - the dome.

You might remember my incessant discussion of adding a column - this addresses this exact issue. My door sags at precisely the spot you mentioned. The bottom corner furthest from the hinge. Couple of things. My hinge is awfully loose - I see where someone has actually driven in screws near the rivets to try. In a short sighted attempt to secure the door. That has some influence on the sag. Do this - close your door almost completely, then with it about 2 or 3 inches from being close (stay outside the play pac for this), push it toward the hinge. Does it move? If it does, your hinge is also sagging from old age. I bought a new one at home depot and figure I will have to drill it the existing rivets and replace them with larger ones. I know when I close the door from inside and lift it slightly (simulating a tighter hinge), that the gap disappears some more.

Most important is when I prop up the new column which is going in approx. 2 feet in from the door and 2 feet back ... I pop it in and get out the level, I stop bumping it when the roof is level at long last. Know what? The door sag is cut in half. Or sagging roof is pushing the top half of the egg down toward the bottom half. The result is buckling at the center where the two halves are joined. So between the new column and the new hinge I feel we should be able to trap more hot air inside. I will be posting pictures to document my Reno for sure!

As for the windows ... I have no clue but I know what you speak of. They hold the windows open and lock 'em shut right? Yeah, they are so flimsy and some of ours are so ready to go and we are missing a couple outright. Sorry I can't be better help there.

Congrats to you and Eric on the new floor ... That has to be a huge feeling of accomplishment. Baby steps!
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:59 PM   #44
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Paint-on insulation

Some folks are amateur crastinators. I am a PRO!

Got prices on more than half of the materials I need to make up a batch or 2 (or 5) but have not zigackly been diligent in following up on non-returned calls and e-mails.

Mea Culpa

I gotta get on it ASAP (but then I also gotta finish putting the RedMax 3 on Quatchi (my Bigfoot), and I spent about half of today getting the stereo upgraded in "Max" (my tug) while getting chided by spouse about not getting "Quatchi" shined up yet, and........
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:18 PM   #45
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Hi all....
So, after much research. I have decide to go with HY-TECH Insulating paint, HY-TECH Insulating paint and insulating house paint additive DIY insulation solutions.
It is a powdered ceramic additive that you add to the paint of your choice. It will insulate to maintain temp by keeping heat in and keeping it out. Has like an R20 factor. With shipping I paid about $40, $11.95 each plus shipping and that is enough for 2 gals of paint. Not sure how many gals. a 13ft play pac will need but I am starting with 2. At $100 if I dont like it, or if it doesnt work as expecting I can throw the puzzle piece insulation right on top. I am in Texas but the product should be in when I get back to PA next week. I am looking forward to seeing how well it goes on and works. I will take before and after pics of the walls before and after!!
Seeya!
Oh our temp name is "Doodlebugout"!
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:48 PM   #46
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Similar in a lot of ways to the stuff I brewed up for use in cars. This stuff is cheaper than what I make, but I don't see any reference on this site to the aluminum reflective coating that I get put onto the micro-balls, nor do I see any reference to either mean size, nor median size of the spheres. Also, no ref to manufacturing source (mine are composite from fly ash from coal-fired generation stations), so they are not Vacuum packed - but when things are that tiny, I just can't see that it'd make much of a diff.

One place where they do have better research is that they know the thermal R-value of their product, and I have not a clue, as I never intended to go into biz with it - I just brewed some up for myself and then some buddies wanted some and then I mentioned it on this board.

I can say that theirs is cheaper than it costs me to make mine.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:34 AM   #47
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Hey Dave, We really just wanted to get it done and this seems like a good product. Working on some leaking around the windows before I paint.
The product in the bag looks like a liquid, but its a powder.....very cool!

~Heather
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:50 PM   #48
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Hey Paul.....made any progress on your door. Im a little intimidated to attack ours. Weather as held me up on doing any painting. Did give her a good powerwashing and found all the leaks I need to repair or fill. Proud to say the dome was not one of the aforementioned leaks! ) Hopefully this weekend we will make some progress!
~Heather
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:35 PM   #49
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Dave, I'm very interested in this product. I have a question though. When you say three coats is thick, how thick is thick? I'd appreciate a guesstimate, please and thank you. I'm wondering if it would leave a smooth, blemish free type look or is it lumpier.
If you have a picture I appreciate seeing one as well.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:21 PM   #50
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Hey Heather,
Major huge progress on the door! I finally installed the much needed support column and the door /passenger side sag is pracitcally nonexistent! I think that not having some kind of floor to ceiling support on both sides of the trailer (w/ exception of Burros/ Uhauls, etc. which are double-walled) lends itself to fiberglass sag over the years. I mean, there's not only no support on the passenger side but theres also a big hole in it to further weaken it - the door! Anyway, I don't know if you are interested in adding a column as it really was a hassle (however, now I am a pro with fiberglass!) but there are likely other ways to remedy this issue. Perhaps some of the real pros here who have fixed their door sag issues can chime in? I'm just not an RV tech (even though I have spent enough time here on FGRV.com to be one!) but I am very happy with my results. Let us know what you decide to do, and as always good luck - we're all rooting for you!
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:56 AM   #51
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BCDave- Any further progress on your insulating paint costs?

Heather- Have you applied yours?

I'm very interested in both.
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:53 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Archie G. View Post
BCDave- Any further progress on your insulating paint costs?

Heather- Have you applied yours?

I'm very interested in both.
Hi Archie, I have not! but it is my goal to have it done by this weekend!! Did receive the product, its kinda cool looks like powder, but is tiny glass beads.

Will let you know how it goes after I apply it!
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:04 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Paul Chet View Post
. Let us know what you decide to do, and as always good luck - we're all rooting for you!

As I still have the small spie shelf to the left of the door as you walk in, I am going to purchase a decorative post of sme sort and and apply a top plate roughly 14x14 and put between the top of the shelf and ceiling. When standing and pushing up on the celiling in this location it raises the ceiling enought that the door levels out. easy fix, yes, im not as adventerous as you are Paul!! lol hoping to post pics next week of my progress as painting is on the agenda this week......
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:00 PM   #54
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Hey Heather,

Have you applied the insulating paint?

Archie
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:30 AM   #55
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So I have applied the paint with the additive. It is amazing!i But painting the inside of the camper was not fun!!! Two coats of Kilz, with a brush, as roller wasnt covering well. With the two layers of kilz I could still feel the sticky from the old insulate. Decide to go ahead and paint. Paint with additive went on smoothly. only had to do one coat and all the stickiness from the insulate is gone, yeah! Would have been nice to use a spray gun, but the product requires brush or roller, as to not break the insulating glass beads. Im really happy with the results. Should have cabinets and such done by this week! We are planning our first outing Labor Day weekend. Will post pics....when I figure out how to in a post!! lol
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:57 AM   #56
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Roof sag

Heather,
My PP came with a decorative column to prop up the roof. As I examined it further I noticed a bulge on the outside where the roof was propped up. I have a 6" x 12" piece of wood on the top of the column. The roof sag, and resultant door sag may have other beginnings. I had talked to the people who repaired a PP and they said the fiberglas and the wood supporting it had deteriorated. This was a marine repair company that specializes in boat and rv repairs. I think I am going to go with external supports. I don't want to saw out the bad places as the repair company had done. Maybe the larger pad you are going to use will distribute the weight better. Hopefully it will.
Post pix of your paint when you have a chance.
Paul w
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:43 PM   #57
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Interior

Ok all....drum roll please!!! lol Introducing our now beloved PP. "DoodleBugOut" After alot of blood, sweat, and tears.....she is ready to make her debut this weekend...... We still have some little things to take care of, but we figure a weekend in her will lead to some unthought of necessities. So here ya go........
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:55 PM   #58
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Here are pics of the walls before and after withtwo coats of Kilz!

And of the cabinet (paneling) in the same process!
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:58 PM   #59
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Wow - she has come a LONG way from those photos with the ensolite hanging down from the ceiling and the rotten floor all chipped up! that is BRIGHT! interestingly enough our original table top is the exact same color - it really livens up the place.
i was thinking of doing the exact same thing with our interior regarding the killz. does it cover up the fiberglass pattern at all and make it any smoother?
anyway, congrats on a major effort - it looks like you guys really put a lot of work into it and now all you have to do is get out there and enjoy it. you are right ... its the best way to not only learn what you need to add but also i have learned the opposite - what i DONT need for the next trip. too often i pick up all kinds of junk thinking just because its small or "hey this would be perfect for the Play Pac" and not really thinking "yeah, but does serve a purpose?" now i have a growing bin of brand new stuff in my garage that i need to eBay ... but it cuts down on the clutter.
anyway, congrats again - i look forward to hearing your first trip report and seeing photos of DoodleBugOut in all of her camping glory!
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:06 PM   #60
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Thanks PAul!! It really isnt as bright as it looks in the pics! But it does make the small space seem bigger! Couldnt go to girlie!! so yellow and grey with black and white bedding.
I put two coats of kilz, which i found i could only do with a brush, because of the rough texture. After the 2 coats the walls still felt sticky from the old ensolite. I was worried but decided to go ahead and paint and hope the extra layers covered it. I put on the first coat of interior waterbased paint with ceramic additive in it and once it dried the stickiness was gone! Yeah! I applied a second coat for the additional insulating factor of the additive. The walls are no longer rought to the touch although it is still textured looking. But you can no longer see the fiberglass lines, so to speak. We are very pleased with the outcome.
Still need to do something with the cabinets under the sink. For now I have two small totes with kitchen stuff and Im just gonna hang a curtain with a tension rod to hide it. lol
Still have the column to do to push the ceiling and door up as well.....but that will be after this first trip.
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