Is my Scamp electrical system working properly? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-23-2021, 12:48 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,584
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC0GV View Post
Note that at one time Scamps were delivered with the lp/co detector fuse pulled, be sure it is installed before you sleep in it.
Note that one time Scamps were delivered with NO LP alarm at all. Only six years ago, the only alarm device in mine was a CO monitor. I still slept in it many times before I installed a gas alarm.
gordon2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2021, 03:54 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Name: Lynn
Trailer: '06 Scamp 16
Rochester, New York
Posts: 189
I still haven't put any alarms in our '06. Probably should.
Lynn Eberhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2021, 11:12 AM   #23
Junior Member
 
Name: Ed
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 3
Good to see that the issue was resolved. As a new Fiberglass RV owner I had the same issue camping in Florida in February. I'd picked up my 2020 Scamp in Backus in August, camped through MN, WI, MI to get home, camped multiple times in the fall, then embarked to Florida in February. During our second week, we were in Highlands Hammock State Park where I left the Maxxfan running (no AC) because of the heat. Upon returning from a hike, I found the fan running anemically (and would not shut off), the lights pinpoint dim, and the refrigerator off (it uses a 12V control even when on 120AC). Lucky for me, there were about 30 other Scamp campers there and one of them helped me by telling me about the plug to the converter. Sure enough, I found the cord neatly coiled behind the converter and some other wiring. I plugged it in, and Bobs Your Uncle! The good news is that I inadvertently stressed tested the 12VDC system. On a related item, I had a similar issue with my refrigerator becoming ditzy on 120VAC, so I ran it on propane. Trouble shooting later, I found that the 3 prong plug located behind the outside panel had jiggled about 1/3 up, creating a poor connection. Now my set-up procedure at camp include checking the plugs.
Ed in St Joe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2021, 12:23 PM   #24
Junior Member
 
Name: Bill
Trailer: shopping
MN
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by lisantica View Post
Awesome news! As soon as I saw AC0GV's response about that part under the bench being unplugged, I knew you would find the same.

My 2008 was delivered and the power wasn't working, the guy went right to that part and plugged it in.
On my 2015 Scamp the converter comes loose on every trip. Every time we set up camp I push the plug back in to make sure it is a snug fit
DrBill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2021, 12:29 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,196
boil battery out

no matter if its on trickle charge or what you can overcharge and you can boil the battery!


My way i run the battery charger off a timer but suit youself! My house battery lasts a long time!
k0wtz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2021, 02:25 PM   #26
Junior Member
 
Name: Dennis
Trailer: Currently shopping
Idaho
Posts: 16
Scamp Electrical Converter Access

Quote:
Originally Posted by teg_76 View Post
After many years of consideration, we finally put in for an order for a 16 foot standard Scamp last summer and just took delivery a few days ago and are very excited!

I'm trying to learn as much as possible, and have some questions regarding the electrical system. I'm plugged into 120V at home charging my battery. For some reason though, it won't go above 12.3 on the voltage meter. The voltage meter actually goes down when I'm using the lights or the furnace, even though I'm plugged into the 120V. So I have three questions:

1) Shouldn't the power for the lights and furnace be drawn completely from the 120V and not the battery when plugged in?

2) Why won't the battery charge to 12.6, which Scamp says is a full charge?

3) When I charge the battery with the car battery the voltage meter says i'm putting out over 13 volts (which scamp says is normal when charging). Shouldn't it also do that when I'm plugged into the 120V outlet?

I do have the refrigerator also drawing from the 120V. Not sure if that info helps answer the questions above or not.

Thank you all!
On my 1999 Scamp 16 the converter is under the seat and behind the electric panel as one of your responders described. I removed the drawer under the seat to access the converter. That is the seat on the left side across from the sink etc and nearest the rear of the trailer.
denswaer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
electrical, scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Trailer Fridge now Working Properly Rick G Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 4 07-23-2018 05:42 PM
Duo-Therm gravity furnace not working properly Rick G Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 12-08-2015 05:46 PM
Electrical not working, help! Dupuini Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 07-01-2013 06:48 PM
Scamp electrical system Barbara Dill Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 09-02-2011 06:17 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.