is there an outside vent for the stove/range on your trailer? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-19-2007, 03:40 PM   #1
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So Im going to paint my trailer next month, and I wanted to take out the large home depot looking vent that went behind the fridge''long gone''. this woul clean up the look of the trailer. Not to mention, it would be easier on the spunge when washing... I looked at a bunch of airstreams, and they didnt have a vent behind the stove/ range.

what do you think?
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Old 12-19-2007, 03:46 PM   #2
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So Im going to paint my trailer next month, and I wanted to take out the large home depot looking vent that went behind the fridge''long gone''. this woul clean up the look of the trailer. Not to mention, it would be easier on the spunge when washing... I looked at a bunch of airstreams, and they didnt have a vent behind the stove/ range.

what do you think?
My 2006 Scamp has two vents. A large vent for fridge and a small vent for furnace.
No vent for the cook top, which means that you need to open a couple windows or something have ventilation when cooking. I have a small window over the stove top that I open and I keep the ceiling vent open to some extent all the time.

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Old 12-19-2007, 04:09 PM   #3
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Same here, I open the window strategically placed over the stove, and crack the roof vent to cook.
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:25 PM   #4
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I don't have the baggage-door-louvered- looking thing for the stove, but I do have a vent (w/flapper) for the range hood fan.


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Old 12-19-2007, 04:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
I wanted to take out the large home depot looking vent that went behind the fridge''long gone''.
If your fridge is "Long Gone", then the vent has no purpose, and my opinion is that closing up the vent hole is OK.

If you still have a Propane powered fridge, then the vent is necessary and needs to stay.

The new Trilliums are using 12 volt (only) fridges, and not venting them to the outside.
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Old 12-19-2007, 05:38 PM   #6
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[quote]I don't have the baggage-door-louvered- looking thing for the stove, but I do have a vent (w/flapper) for the range hood fan.

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Is that little guy up high ''by thr range hood''? or down low,''by the cooktop''?
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:12 PM   #7
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They are just behind the range hood, if you have one. Up above the stovetop.

I always forget to secure the flaps on mine. It flops around when driving.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:21 PM   #8
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Both those vents on the side are for the fridge, whether we run ours on Propane, 12 volt, or 110volt, the fridge gets mighty hot and needs those vents. Of course, no fridge, no problem.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:42 PM   #9
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Allrighty then, im takin out the fridge vents! While Im doin mods, What's underneith the bellyband? can I remove it too? As it will interfear with my graphics...

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Old 12-19-2007, 09:06 PM   #10
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I don't have a belly band, mine is front to back center seam, but...

it's the only seam in your shell. If there is a leak, thats where it will most likely happen (After the usual spots like windows, vents etc)

I don't think I would remove it unless you did some glassing over it to replace the band.
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:34 PM   #11
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I don't have a belly band, mine is front to back center seam, but...

it's the only seam in your shell. If there is a leak, thats where it will most likely happen (After the usual spots like windows, vents etc)

I don't think I would remove it unless you did some glassing over it to replace the band.
Ofcoarse there would be some glass work to cover all the holes, and then a bunch of sanding to get it to look nice and straight. there is some sort of epoxy holding the 2 halves together, I was just wondering if the band was doing something I didint know about. right now it looks like rubber baby buggy bumpers.
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:35 AM   #12
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Ofcoarse there would be some glass work to cover all the holes, and then a bunch of sanding to get it to look nice and straight. there is some sort of epoxy holding the 2 halves together, I was just wondering if the band was doing something I didint know about. right now it looks like rubber baby buggy bumpers.
I'm fairly new to this, and I don't know how old your trailer is or what your belly band looks like from up close, but I've fixed some leaks along the belly seam on my 1974 Trillium. I did it from the inside, though. There were small metal backplates on the inside, one holding each rivet, that were glued-in under a layer of fiberglass, which covers the entire seam. I had to replace a few of them. It does appear to me that the band's main purpose is to hide the seam, especially where the two gelcoat surfaces do not align perfectly well and where the edges are rough. And, of course, there might be styling. If you care about the Trillium styling, it is possible to polish the aluminium band and replace the entire black rubber molding within the band fairly easily. But if you're trying to do something different and more personalized, I don't see why you couldn't take the whole thing off and grind out any protruding rivet bits and fill the outside part of the seam like they did on the inside. The only possible drawback I can imagine is that if you ever want to sell your Trillium one day, potential buyers / Trillium aficionados might want the belly band where it belongs.
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Old 12-20-2007, 05:52 PM   #13
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I have had two Trill' and both had some issues regarding the Belly Band.
As is mentioned above there are little metal plates glassed inside that carry a rivet to attach the band.
Of course these plates will rust out leaving both a sagging band and little leaking holes.

I could not figure this out until I yanked the band in spots and dug down inside to really get a good look at the way it is constructed.
I ended up cleaning out the rusted groove as best I could and then using an Epoxy Stick to make the putty I crammed into the seam.

It took a while and you have to work fast as the putty sets up but I was able to lay it down smoothly with a putty knife and in thinlayers to build it up level with the walls.

It stopped the leaking and provided a nice new surface for the band to be re-applied.

I remember seeing an older post with pictures where someone used a similar technique and removed the entire band,worked it smooth and flat and then painted the Trill.
It looked good when he was done and was unique too.

I am sure you can find that post if you search for it.

Good Luck
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:38 PM   #14
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me and all my friends love the trill. But it just needs to be modernized a bit. If it weren't for the crazy replacement value of the little guy I would just get new one! but since this one was cheap, I don't have a payment, I can afford to give it some love... So far I've changed the axle,''with a lift kit'' got new alloy wheels, and off-road tires, recovered the cabinet doors, rebuilt the table and got all new hinge hardware. the cushions are at the upholstery shop, the exterior automotive paint just came in, and we will put down some flooring after its all done. things on the list are: a new frame, a cubby hole for the EU2000 Honda gen, and a grey water tank. I also wanna do something cool with the landing gear.

here is an Idea, Since I have all of your attention. what if I had some sort of contest on what the paint job would look like. we would submit drawings or renderings to a post and pic a paint scheme from what was submitted. no real prize other than bragging rights, but might be a fun game. If I get some feedback Ill start a new post and put up the first rendering or two.

Tell me what you think

Ryan
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:39 PM   #15
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me and all my friends love the trill. But it just needs to be modernized a bit. If it weren't for the crazy replacement value of the little guy I would just get new one! but since this one was cheap, I don't have a payment, I can afford to give it some love... So far I've changed the axle,''with a lift kit'' got new alloy wheels, and [b]off-road tires, recovered the cabinet doors, rebuilt the table and got all new hinge hardware. the cushions are at the upholstery shop, the exterior automotive paint just came in, and we will put down some flooring after its all done. things on the list are: a new frame, a cubby hole for the EU2000 Honda gen, and a grey water tank. I also wanna do something cool with the landing gear.

here is an Idea, Since I have all of your attention. what if I had some sort of contest on what the paint job would look like. we would submit drawings or renderings to a post and pic a paint scheme from what was submitted. no real prize other than bragging rights, but might be a fun game. If I get some feedback Ill start a new post and put up the first rendering or two.

Tell me what you think

Ryan

I was wondering about trailer tires for off road use or are you using something other that ST (Special Trailer) tires?
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:51 PM   #16
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a cubby hole for the EU2000 Honda gen
To replace the deleted Fridge?
Cool!
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:13 PM   #17
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to answer Byron's question, tires go by weight, and speed rating. Since speed rating doesnt seem to affect us, we just worry about weight. little tires in the 13 and 14 inch rim size need trailer tires to have a sufficiant rating. bigger tires in the 15 16 &17 have load ratings that exceed the trailers load capacity by far. I ordered a 225/70/16. its about 28 inches tall. the weight rating is 1875 lbs. We sell procomp tires at work so I got a good deal on them.


as for fredricks comment, my secrete generator spot is not a secret anymore!lol
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:19 PM   #18
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to answer Byron's question, tires go by weight, and speed rating. Since speed rating doesnt seem to affect us, we just worry about weight. little tires in the 13 and 14 inch rim size need trailer tires to have a sufficiant rating. bigger tires in the 15 16 &17 have load ratings that exceed the trailers load capacity by far. I ordered a 225/70/16. its about 28 inches tall. the weight rating is 1875 lbs. We sell procomp tires at work so I got a good deal on them.


as for fredricks comment, my secrete generator spot is not a secret anymore!lol
They also go by side wall construction. P tires are different the LT tires and ST tires are different yet. P tires have soft sidewalls to give a passenger a smoother ride and not good for trailers. They'll usually heat up quite a bit more than ST tires. Sometimes they let the air out with a bang. ST tires are designed so the sidewalls don't flex and heat up.

For full information get out the Goodyear tire site and other RV trailering sites.
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:52 PM   #19
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I could not figure this out until I yanked the band in spots and dug down inside to really get a good look at the way it is constructed.
I ended up cleaning out the rusted groove as best I could and then using an Epoxy Stick to make the putty I crammed into the seam.
I don't mean to hog this thread with any unwanted details, but found this to be very straightforward from the inside if you manage to peel the ensolite with a sharp scraper. All I did was drill all the way through the rivet hole through the rusted plate and fiberglass, pop-in a new rivet through a matching size stainless-steel washer inside, coat it with fiberglass on the inside to stop any leaks, and slap the ensolite back on with contact cement. It's not any better than the original design, but not any worse. And without the ensolite, when you have a bright light source on the outside, you can actually see how it's made from the interior like an X-ray.
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:11 PM   #20
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They also go by side wall construction. P tires are different the LT tires and ST tires are different yet. P tires have soft sidewalls to give a passenger a smoother ride and not good for trailers. They'll usually heat up quite a bit more than ST tires. Sometimes they let the air out with a bang. ST tires are designed so the sidewalls don't flex and heat up.

For full information get out the Goodyear tire site and other RV trailering sites.
Byron, you are correct. We were talking about offroad tires, they are mostly LT tires. I have plenty of times put LT tires on trailers. Ive never had an issue with blow outs.
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