Is this a 3 way refrigerator? Dometic 1978

[Jamie June]

My newly acquired 1978 Trillium 1300 has the original appliances including the Dometic propane refrigerator. I have some old warranty info but no manual. I don't have propane hooked up yet but I think I heard from the previous owners that it worked with that. I was wondering if it would work with electric power. I don't see a switch but I'm probably looking in the wrong place. Were some of these propane only? Any troubleshooting tips to see if it works?

[Joe MacDonald]

there should be an access hatch on the outside behind the fridge, open the hatch and you should find a model number.
my 76 had a 3 way, but many of the trilliums had different styles
Joe

[Jamie June]

Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald

there should be an access hatch on the outside behind the fridge, open the hatch and you should find a model number.
my 76 had a 3 way, but many of the trilliums had different styles
Joe

Yes, thank you, I think you are right. Someone on a FB page linked me up with a manual too, and I found this video where the guy accessed the identical fridge from outside. So, I guess we should be able to figure out pretty soon if the fridge works or doesn't!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp_VeA98sts

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald

there should be an access hatch on the outside behind the fridge, open the hatch and you should find a model number.
my 76 had a 3 way, but many of the trilliums had different styles
Joe

I typically find the model number on a data plate located on the door sill, on the right-hand side.

I would check the electrical function first. If you have a multimeter, check the heater resistance to make sure that the heater works.

On an RM211 the heater is 95 watts.
Power,(P)=Current,(I) x Voltage,(V) and I=V/Resistance(R)
Substituting I in the power equation
P=(V/R) x V
P=V²/R
Transposing
R=V²/P

For the 120VAC heater:
R=120(Volts)²/95(Watts)
R=14,400/95
R=152 ohms

For the 12VDC heater:
R=12²/95
R=144/95
R=1.5 ohms

If your resistance values fall in this range, then the heaters are OK.

Plug it in and wait for six hours or so. If the freezer is cold, your fridge's absorption cooler works.

Everything else is repairable.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

I would check the electrical function first. If you have a multimeter, check the heater resistance to make sure that the heater works.

Where exactly are you checking the resistance Dave?

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Where exactly are you checking the resistance Dave?

Yeah, I should have included these graphics:

Electrical.JPG Views: 9 Size: 34.1 KB ID: 146683" style="margin: 2px" />

The two right most terminals on the pictured terminal strip are the 110, (120)VAC connections. The second most right terminal is a common, so the third most right and second most right terminals are the 12VDC connection.

It should be noted that the recommended checks are to be done when no power is being applied to the fridge. Otherwise you will fry your multimeter. It's probably a good idea to switch the fridge to propane as well.

[Jamie June]

Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald

there should be an access hatch on the outside behind the fridge, open the hatch and you should find a model number.
my 76 had a 3 way, but many of the trilliums had different styles
Joe

This doesn't twist readily, hope I don't break it!

[The Minimalist]

Once you find the model number of the fridge unit, you can search for the manual in the document center under the 'More' tab at the top of the forum page.

[Jamie June]

Originally Posted by The Minimalist

Once you find the model number of the fridge unit, you can search for the manual in the document center under the 'More' tab at the top of the forum page.

I did find a manual, and I do need to open up the back in order to see if it is or can be switched to electric to see if that works. I wasn't able to twist the little key to open the vent, but will try again later.

[The Minimalist]

Try pushing the door inward next to the latch as you try to turn it. Once open..............oil is your friend.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by The Minimalist

Try pushing the door inward next to the latch as you try to turn it. Once open..............oil is your friend.

I’m a liquid wrench product on old stuff that is stuck. Apply wherever there’s an opening. Leave it on for a day, try to turn it. No joy, put some more on and wait another day. Then try a small tap on alternating ends of the “wings” with a very small hammer. It can be replaced but it would be good if you can encourage to turn.
Easy does it.
Iowa Dave

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

The two right most terminals on the pictured terminal strip are the 110, (120)VAC connections. The second most right terminal is a common, so the third most right and second most right terminals are the 12VDC connection.

Thanks Dave,


The fridge has been giving us issues since it cracked a gas fitting and caught fire. We started smelling gas and when I went around to check I saw the flames in the open fridge cavity. Quickly fanned it out with the access panel door and shut off the gas at the tank.


The outer casing on the 120V in wire was melted. I took the ends out of the junction strip to check & tape everything up. They were hell to get back in without the right tools. Changed out the gas fitting and everything seemed OK - Fridge worked on gas. Last trip out, it didn't work on electrical.



Testing will be my next project.

[Joe MacDonald]

even if the little t handle breaks, they are readily available and easy to replace, LPS, WD-40 or any other penetrant will help.

Joe