Jack failure on 2018 Casita - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:58 PM   #1
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Name: Kate
Trailer: Casita 2018 Liberty Dlx
Massachusetts
Posts: 16
Jack failure on 2018 Casita

Hoping to find someone who is already familiar with the stabilizer jacks on Casita of 2018 vintage. I don't want to stick my head under there for a closer look while trailer is off TV. After parking trailer, leveling, etc., lowered the stab jacks. One would not stay extended. Had to put lots of blocks under there for it to work. Afterward I found a loose SPRING on the ground. Don't know if any other part is missing.

Thanks in advance for help and advice.
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Old 11-30-2020, 10:00 PM   #2
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Name: P
Trailer: Casita
Washington
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If the tongue jack is working or supported, and the tires are inflated, and on the ground, the trailer should be just fine to crawl around under and take pictures and stuff. It isn't going to suddenly collapse. The tires are the main weight bearers and the stabilizer jacks are just that. They keep the trailer from bouncing around and rearing up if you put too much weight in the back.

I did some work underneath mine with the stabilizers up. Note: I'm assuming that you know to chock the wheels too.
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Old 12-01-2020, 06:26 AM   #3
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Name: p@
Trailer: Casita
South Carolina
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KamperKate this is probably not a reply you were looking for but, here goes...those "stabilizers" on your casita are pretty much useless. my 16' spirit has those and because my trailer is equipped with the hi lift axle and 15" tires the things wouldn't even reach the ground. one of the first mods i did was to install a pair of scissors jacks just behind the axle. infinite adjustment can be accomplished after you've parked the trailer and lowered each jack as needed. another advantage is that you can use the scissors jacks to lift one side of the trailer in the event of a flat tire. and on more recent models casita has started outfitting the rigs with scissors jacks. so...perhaps you can consider making the change...it's not terribly expensive and i'm pretty sure you'll be glad you did it...

p@
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Old 12-01-2020, 06:30 AM   #4
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Casita 17 SD - sold - Lance 1475
Tennessee
Posts: 75
The spring on my stabilizes that retract it into an upright position came off one time. I was able to reattach it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
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Old 12-01-2020, 06:56 AM   #5
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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The spring is what holds the jack in the lowered and raised notches. Until you’re able to reattach the spring, make sure you secure the jack so it doesn’t drop down and drag while you’re towing.

A shop can likely put it right in ten minutes.

I wouldn’t call the swing-down stabilizers completely useless (unless they’re too short due to suspension modifications, as Pat describes). They have worked fine on my Scamp for years. But there are better, more secure alternatives. Besides scissors jacks, there are also BAL stabilizers. Both have to be cranked down, either manually or with a cordless power drill.

You could discuss the alternatives with the shop that fixes your current jack. If they see a potential return customer, they might well fix that spring for free.

If you decide to keep using the swing-down stabilizers, make sure you’re using them correctly. Never use a pry bar to lift the trailer. Instead- after leveling the trailer side-to-side with wheel blocks- dip the tongue several turns, swing down the stabilizers, press the lever to drop the feet loosely to the ground, then raise the tongue to transfer weight onto the stabilizers. Reverse the process to raise them. Use of pads will keep them cleaner as well as prevent them from sinking into the ground. Clean them and lubricate the moving parts annually or as needed after a muddy trip.
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Old 12-01-2020, 07:15 AM   #6
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,082
If the one stabilizer would not lock in the down position maybe the little latch piece (that you push to release the stabilizer) is stuck and not working. Check to see if it moves freely. I know many people don't like that type stabilizer, but we still have them on our 96 SD17 and they work good. Look at the other stabilizer to see how the spring attaches, maybe you can get it back on, move the stabilizer to find the spot where there is the least tension on the spring to install it.
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Old 12-01-2020, 08:38 AM   #7
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Name: Dave
Trailer: 2013Escape 21
Iowa
Posts: 735
I am not familiar with casita jacks but your problem points up some possible worthwhile inclusions in your traveling tool box. Duct tape and or a roll of 3m black electrical tape (series 33 is what I like) and a spray lubricant. I like the original Tri-Flow. The big zip ties about a foot long are worth carrying too and don’t weigh anything along side your other zip ties. Be Prepared
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Old 12-01-2020, 08:39 AM   #8
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,065
I put 4 of these jack / stabilizers on my Scamp. I put two sideways on rear, behind the wheels and two on the tongue fore and aft. The crossed direction stopped the wobble when walking around at night. I use an electric drill with a 3/4" socket to raise and lower. They will also help level the trailer.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 12-01-2020, 09:08 AM   #9
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 SD
Washington
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I burned and ground those crummy troublesome Attwood stabilizers off and installed four 7,500 Lb. rated BAL scissor jacks. Two behind the wheels, which I can actually use to jack the trailer up to change a tire if I need to because they are mounted to the reinforced part of the frame, and two more up forward just ahead of the bend in the "A" frame of the tongue below the front of the trailer. Those are just used to stabilize and not lift. because that part of the trailer is not reinforced and could easily be bent by these powerful jacks. But once they are all set it is rock solid. I carry a 1/2" cordless electric drill with a short extension and a 3/4" socket, which I use to run them up or down. I can do all four in less than two minutes. Bam! The new jacks are mounted with bolts to the four welded on mounting plates, so that if a jack gets damaged, it only requires unbolting to replace it. No need to burn or grind off welds.

https://www.dyersonline.com/bal-24-7...ck-2-pack.html

https://littlehousecustoms.com/store.html#gen

SCISSOR JACK MOUNTING PLATES
Wish you had the fabulous BAL 7500lb scissor jacks but can't make it to Texas? We have a solution. We have our 1/4” thick steel mounting plates laser cut to fit the BAL 24002D jacks perfectly. This is the ideal jack as it's easy to deploy with a cordless drill, is strong enough to lift the trailer to change a flat and with 4 of them on the ground, the trailer is rock steady. If you have a high lift axle and mount them according to our included instructions, ground clearance will never be an issue.

The plate fits the jacks perfectly and the head of the bolt, when the plate is properly centered, clears the frame.

These plates MUST be welded on so your local welder can help you with this project. After welding on the mounting plate, the jack simply bolts to it using the included 3/8” bolts.

While we stock the scissors here in the shop, we don't sell them mail order since freight is high and many of the online resellers have special deals on them so shop around for the best buy on the jacks themselves.

IMPORTANT NOTE: These plates are made for the BAL 24002D and we have no idea if they fit any other brand. The BAL's are the best for our Casitas.

Scissor Jack Mounting Plates Kit $27.95

(I have no affiliation with either of these providers.)
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Old 12-01-2020, 09:35 AM   #10
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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I have wondered if the scissor jacks were as wobbly as the ones I am used to. They do lift more and I guess that if they are "splayed" in different directions the wobble would be controlled better (If that is a thing).
I find that unloading the tires a little helps eliminate the bounce when the significant other walks around in the trailer in the middle of the night.
We both sleep better with the new stabilizer arrangement. (The two bunks help as well as then one doesn't have to climb over the other for the trek to the bathroom.)
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Old 12-01-2020, 12:16 PM   #11
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Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
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I'm with Greg
If your are going to go to the trouble and expense of replacing the stock stabilizers, go with the best, i.e. the scissors. They are not much if any more expensive and much better; not just for stabilizing, but for leveling too, and also, as has been said, for much safer tire changing, where there's no chance of slipping off the jack.

Walt
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Old 12-01-2020, 12:34 PM   #12
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Name: Kate
Trailer: Casita 2018 Liberty Dlx
Massachusetts
Posts: 16
Jack failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowpat View Post
If the tongue jack is working or supported, and the tires are inflated, and on the ground, the trailer should be just fine to crawl around under and take pictures and stuff. It isn't going to suddenly collapse. The tires are the main weight bearers and the stabilizer jacks are just that. They keep the trailer from bouncing around and rearing up if you put too much weight in the back.

I did some work underneath mine with the stabilizers up. Note: I'm assuming that you know to chock the wheels too.

Dear Slowpat,

Thank you for the reassurance! Definitely using the chocks. I don't have a "spotter" so if something DID happen I could be laying there for days. Makes me extra cautious. Seems like the spring is the issue so will give it a try.
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Old 12-01-2020, 12:41 PM   #13
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Name: Kate
Trailer: Casita 2018 Liberty Dlx
Massachusetts
Posts: 16
Thanks Dave. If there's an upside to this story it's that this happened in my back yard. Lots of tools in the garage. Have all that stuff in my traveling toolbox except the zip ties. I can imagine how those would be handy so I'll get some!
Best regards,
Kate
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Old 12-01-2020, 01:17 PM   #14
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Name: Larry
Trailer: Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe (aka: Tweaker's Casita)
Southwest Ohio
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Unfortunately, after dragging my deployed (un-retracted) stabilizers a short distance when I was leaving a campground last year, I had the “opportunity” to take them apart in order to “persuade” the bent pieces back into shape.

There is a long spring inside the upper arm that is designed to keep the stabilizer horizontal when it has been “folded” into place. At the top, it hooks around the pin that is inside the bracket attached to the bottom of the trailer and, at the bottom, it hooks into a small pin hole on the upper arm. When the stabilizer is folded up, it provides tension to keep the “teeth” on the sides of the upper arm of the stabilizer in the notches that are on the pivot piece that is attached to the trailer’s frame. (And, yes, I had to use a needle nosed pliers to hook that back into place.)

I suspect that there might be a shorter spring on the intermediate plate that provides tension so that the plate “bites” onto the lower leg to provide friction when the stabilizer is deployed. (There is no spring on the lower arm of the stabilizer.)
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Old 12-01-2020, 02:53 PM   #15
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Name: Kate
Trailer: Casita 2018 Liberty Dlx
Massachusetts
Posts: 16
Jack failure

My thanks to each of you for responding. I have the High Lift axle, so always needed blocks/pads to fill gap between jacks and the ground. Have never been happy with design or operation of stock jacks on my rig, so replacement is NOT out of the question. I appreciate seeing your experience with other options.

I come standard with two really bad knees so I like the possibility of standing at the side of the Egg and using a cordless drill to operate the jacks!


Cheers
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Old 12-05-2020, 05:32 PM   #16
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowpat View Post
If the tongue jack is working or supported, and the tires are inflated, and on the ground, the trailer should be just fine to crawl around under and take pictures and stuff. It isn't going to suddenly collapse. The tires are the main weight bearers and the stabilizer jacks are just that. They keep the trailer from bouncing around and rearing up if you put too much weight in the back.

I did some work underneath mine with the stabilizers up. Note: I'm assuming that you know to chock the wheels too.

Dead on. But maybe the wrong order. I would start with chocking the wheels
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Old 12-05-2020, 05:35 PM   #17
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamperKate View Post
Dear Slowpat,

Thank you for the reassurance! Definitely using the chocks. I don't have a "spotter" so if something DID happen I could be laying there for days. Makes me extra cautious. Seems like the spring is the issue so will give it a try.

Well the spotter thing is a good point. Hopefully you can find one. That is good for about any kind of repair work. In a pinch I have done a "spotter" for not so risky things of calling a friend who could come by and check if need me and tell them to check on me in a hour or two if I didn't call them back.
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