Jacking up Scamp 16 - Did I do it right?

[PeterNY]

Hi all,

Still new to the RV world. Haven't taken my first trip yet since I got the Scamp in February, but will go camping on Memorial Day weekend.

The Scamp is just sitting on my driveway all these time. I read from this forum that when it is not in use for a prolong period of time I should jack it up. I did it today and want to know if I did it right?? The front is slightly higher than the back. I can't get it perfect. Sharing some pics here. Let me know what you think!

Also, I saw for the first time today that there are two water valves release by the gray tank. What are they for? Are they for draining the water in the lines? Thanks in advance.

[Jon in AZ]

I think you may have gone a bit overboard, but no harm in that.

I’m not as familiar with the exact layout of the 16’ frame, but ideally you should only jack and support on the main 2x3 longitudinal frame rails, not on flat stock used for the drop floor and never, ever on the axle tube. At least one of your jack stands appears to be on small, flat pieces.

I only use one pair of jack stands on the main frame rails just behind the axle on my 13’ Scamp. Using the tongue jack I can then get it perfectly level. After doing that you could put screw-type stabilizers under the front of your longer 16’er to limit flexing of the frame at the front, but it’s not absolutely necessary. Unlike jack stands, screw stabilizers are infinitely adjustable.

[gordon2]

Jack stands on the doubled frame near the axle. I get as close as I can to the axle ON THE DOUBLED FRAME just to the aft (rear) of the axle with a bottle jack, while still having enough room to place the jack stands close to the axle.

IMHO it it helps to relieve most but not all weight from the axle even if you don't raise it enough to get the tires off the ground. However the most benefit is from having no weight on the axle. i.e. tires off the ground. That's best for the tires also, but even better than that (since the tires are off the ground), is to remove them and store them according to the tire manufactures instructions (a different discussion).

Also IMHO if you put most of the trailer's weight on the jack stands ON THE FRAME near the axle, then you darn better put stabilizing jacks fore and aft, especially if you plan to go inside once in awhile to check on things (as you should). Otherwise you have a very expensive and potentially dangerous teeter-totter.

Lastly, the benefit of going to all the trouble might not be worth the effort especially if the length of storage is short. If its not going to be stored for a number of months, I doubt I would go to the trouble.

[PeterNY]

Thanks all for your responses. If I only jack up at the back behind the axle and using the front tongue jack, then I don't have to put one of the front jack stand on the flat tube used for the step. I can also try moving the front jacks a bit more forward but they will be on the "A" part of the frame.

On the last pic, what are those two water valve releases use for?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by PeterNY

T..
On the last pic, what are those two water valve releases use for?

I am not the OP but I am quite sure they are the low point plumbing drains.. but my question is are they SCAMP originals... on my 2015 they used a cheaper valve than what is shown here. It would be nice to see them switch to the better ball valves, esp. on the exposed outside.

[AlanKilian]

Originally Posted by PeterNY

On the last pic, what are those two water valve releases use for?

Maybe freshwater drain and something else?

What is right above them?

Can you see those two tubes coming through the floor connecting to anything in the camper?

[PeterNY]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

Maybe freshwater drain and something else?

What is right above them?

Can you see those two tubes coming through the floor connecting to anything in the camper?

These valves are on the right side of the camper (driver side I should say). The water tank is on the other side. This is the side where the power cable resides. The last time I check that storage space I didn't notice these tubes going outside to the bottom. I'd have to check again when I get home today.

[PeterNY]

Originally Posted by gordon2

I am not the OP but I am quite sure they are the low point plumbing drains.. but my question is are they SCAMP originals... on my 2015 they used a cheaper valve than what is shown here. It would be nice to see them switch to the better ball valves, esp. on the exposed outside.

I got this trailer used but it's only 2 years old. I don't think the original owner made any plumping modification. I guess it must be an upgrade from Scamp. What is low point plumbing drains use for? Is it to release all the water in the lines? I think these are the lines going to the front shower?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by PeterNY

...What is low point plumbing drains use for? Is it to release all the water in the lines?...

Exactly. Open the drain valves and all the faucets in the camper to allow water to drain out of the pipes. I can't be sure without inspecting it in person but I am 98.5 % sure that is what they are for.

[MJo]

You mentioned leveling. I got some Camco 25523 standard levels, from Amazon. they come in a package of 2. They're little green capsules with a bubble in them that you can stick to the side and back of the Scamp to check the level. One package of them was $3.36. I stuck one under the belt of my Scamp to the left of the door, about midway on the Scamp and the other one I stuck below the belt, (the metal strap that goes around the Scamp) on the rear of the Scamp above the tire. Good luck with your Scamp. You've found a good place to get ideas on this site.

[MJo]

Take a look at the videos on the Scamp website, they are really helpful.

[redbarron55]

Perhaps low point on the potable water lines and perhaps low point on the line that the shower drain pump feeds back to the gray water tank?
{My Scamp is much modified and I have a drain from the side kitchen drain that is also the drain for the shower (pumped) drain. The tee together and the hose will not be damaged by freezing so I don't have a drain for that.}

[Randy P.]

Peter, there is absolutely no need to jack your camper up every time you park it in your driveway for a couple of months. Some do so for long term storage but not for the situation you describe.

Don't worry about it and enjoy your camper.

[tractors1]

FYI; what's IN a tire.........


I never bother with jacking up my rig; haven't had a problem in 35 years so far.


https://www.ustires.org/whats-tire-0

[Jon in AZ]

The recommendation to place on jack stands during long-term storage comes from the axle manufacturer to allow the rubber in the axle to relax, possibly slowing axle sag over time. Modern radial tires do not develop flat spots like older bias ply tires.

That said, I agree that it is really not necessary. I do it because it makes the trailer very stable for use as an office hideaway and occasional extra bedroom while it’s stored in our driveway. I raise the wheels completely off the ground so I can service the brakes or bearings while it’s stored with no extra labor.

[johnlochbuie]

There is no reason why you need to jack up a trailer when not being used for long periods .

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by johnlochbuie

There is no reason why you need to jack up a trailer when not being used for long periods .

All the manufactures of torsion axles say otherwise. Actually they say you will extend the service life of the axle if you take the weight off during long periods of storage.
But if you like to spend more money than you need to, and / or you like to have a trailer that does not ride as smooth as it could, then you are correct.

[Scott Corsair]

smooth and torsion axle should never be used in the same sentence. end of the day rubber does not last as long as a real spring. sure jacking it up will make it last a little longer. but i can’t imagine much. rubber breaks down

[Jon in AZ]

Airstream seems to think rubber torsion axles give a smoother ride. Adding shocks to either axle type improves smoothness significantly. Many trailers do not include shocks.

Rubber torsion axles do not last forever, and they are replaced as a unit after twenty years or so. Neither do leaf-spring axles, but they are usually replaced piecemeal. I've seen enough broken bits of leaf-spring systems in campgrounds and along the side of highways to realize nothing lasts forever.

[Civilguy]

If you do decide to jack up the trailer, I'd follow the other's advice about just using two locations near the axle and one near the coupler. After all, that's how the trailer is normally supported, right?

Using plywood to avoid concentrated points of contact with the jack bases as you have done is a good practice. I am personally not a big fan of the yellow plastic "Lego blocks". People use them because they are not expensive, readily available and relatively light weight. However, if they don't break due to contact with uneven ground, they will eventually degrade and fail due to exposure to sunlight and/or extreme temperatures.