Leaking Trillium Windows

[Paul Richter]

Hi there folks, I'm new to the trillium trailer & have realized that the front & back windows are both leaking. Do I need to replace the gasket if so where would I be able to purchase new ones?? Also are there any tools that would assist me in doing the job easier?? Also what is involved with this.....I haven't had a chance to even look into it to see what I might be in-store for.
Also what is involved with resealing the 2 side windows....i just I should do these as well.

Thanks in advance with all of your input,

[Daniel V.]

what is involved with this

Check this out:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=33014

[Raya]

Paul,

Pardon me if I'm mistaken, but does the 1971 (very early) Trillium have the "solid" (i.e. non-opening) front and rear windows? If so, they might be more like those in a Boler/clone (which have a one-piece plastic window and a large rubber seal that goes in with a lock strip).

That said, I know the Cloud is that way (vs. the later clones), so I may be mis-remembering the early Trillium as being that way.

I think that you also don't have the molded in "flat spots" for the side windows , although that shouldn't change how they're removed/re-installed from Daniel's link.

Raya

[Paul Richter]

Paul,

Pardon me if I'm mistaken, but does the 1971 (very early) Trillium have the "solid" (i.e. non-opening) front and rear windows? If so, they might be more like those in a Boler/clone (which have a one-piece plastic window and a large rubber seal that goes in with a lock strip).

That said, I know the Cloud is that way (vs. the later clones), so I may be mis-remembering the early Trillium as being that way.

I think that you also don't have the molded in "flat spots" for the side windows , although that shouldn't change how they're removed/re-installed from Daniel's link.

Raya

Raya, yes my windows (front & Back) are like those of the Bolers.

[james kent]

Any autoglass replacement specialty shop [Speedy Autoglass] should be able to do it for you. Many have done it this way.

[Raya]

Okay, then, Scamp sells the large seal-and-lock-strip that is typically used on the front and rear windows (it may be pre-cut, and thus too short, but I bet they could sell you longer pieces if so). I think there are other places to buy ut it too, as it's used on semi-tractors and such. There is a tool that makes it easier to put in.

I only know theory though, as I have not replaced it. I'm sure others will chime in (but probably not Trillium folk, specifically, as most of the Trilliums have all flat jalousie windows front and rear, and they don't use those special seals).

Raya

[Donna D.]

One of the best sources we have that we can point to are videos created by Kevin61 on YouTube. These are for Boler windows (the solid plexiglass kind), but will give you a good idea of the process:
Installation of Boler front/rear window part one video, installing a Boler plexiglass window
and
Installation of Boler front/rear window part TWO video

BTW: Scamp sells the window gasket material and lock strip by the foot. Tell them how much you need and that's what you'll get.

You'll also need a lock strip tool. It's possible to do the window without it, but for a relatively inexpensive tool it can make the job considerably easier. You may find it cheaper locally, but this is what you need: Lisle 47000 Windshield Locking Strip Tool. I've seen some with four different heads that you can choose from to install different diameters of lock strip.

Best of luck!

[Paul Richter]

One of the best sources we have that we can point to are videos created by Kevin61 on YouTube. These are for Boler windows (the solid plexiglass kind), but will give you a good idea of the process:
Installation of Boler front/rear window part one video, installing a Boler plexiglass window
and
Installation of Boler front/rear window part TWO video

BTW: Scamp sells the window gasket material and lock strip by the foot. Tell them how much you need and that's what you'll get.

You'll also need a lock strip tool. It's possible to do the window without it, but for a relatively inexpensive tool it can make the job considerably easier. You may find it cheaper locally, but this is what you need: Lisle 47000 Windshield Locking Strip Tool. I've seen some with four different heads that you can choose from to install different diameters of lock strip.

Best of luck!

Thanks for all the info...looks like I'll have a blast.

[JRTrillium]

I have a front window that should be repaired. It is soft on the left side only but assume the wood between the window and interior has rotted.

We have the louvered windows, front and back. Is that the 'gasket' that is referred to that is between the window and the trailer? And, is it 'Beutyl tape' that is required for replacement?

When I search this site I see some people post a 'how to' url - when I click on it the url is no longer available. So, looking for some experienced advice.

Thank you all !!

[David Tilston]

The gasket referred to is for the solid non opening window that the 1971 and earlier Trilliums had. Much like the Bolers. Your trailer has all jalousie windows, except for the door. The repair for those goes like this:
1) remove the black covers over the screws. They will likely break due to age. They can be replaced:
http://www.shoprvparts.com/product/1...overall-8.html
2) Remove the screws. Don't worry, the windows won't fall out.
3) Pry out the windows. Work your way around the window with a pry bar, or large putty knife, or whatever, (I used an ice chopper). You should have help for this. Someone to make sure you don't drop the window
4) If you have shelves above the window, this is the time to remove them. The shelves are attached to the wood that holds the windows in. I did not compleatly remove the aluminum and wood shelves in my 4500. I just unscrewed them from the frame, and pushed them up.
5) This is the hard part. Separate the Ensolite from the plywood frames. This will take patience and luck. Go slow. I used a boxing knife, others have used a putty knife. Try not to go through the white layer.
6) Clean fibreglass of all old putty residue.
7) Make new frames. I would suggest 3/4" marine plywood. Maybe even paint it. Some use other materials that are less likely to rot. I figure, if regular plywood lasted over 20 years, then marine plywood should do at least as well.
8) Put the frame back in. I did not use glue, or anything here. The Ensolite was enough to hold it in place.
9) Put butyl tape on the fibreglass where the window flange will cover it.
10) Screw the window back in. I started in the middle of the flange and worked my way to to corners. I am not sure there is a preferred way to do this.
11) Trim the excess butyl tape that will have squeezed out. Use a soft plastic, or wood implement for this so you don't scratch the fibreglass.
12) Install the screw covers.

Done.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by JRTrillium

When I search this site I see some people post a 'how to' url - when I click on it the url is no longer available.

Somewhere, somehow in one of the site upgrades a number of old links got messed up. I had spent a number of hours cross referencing the specifics of various jobs on my trailer to the main restoration thread, which was a cummulative chronological summary. Many of those links no longer work. Not to meniton that a number of pictures have disappeared

Sometimes if you hover over the link or click on it, you will get a thread title. Pick a key phrase from the title and search this site using the google search format for a site. For example, you would search for:

"key phrase" site:fiberglassrv.com

[Raz]

I resealed some of my windows a few years back. Being a newer Trillium it uses the new style Hehr windows with an inner clamping ring but the procedure is similar. Along with Davids description some of the pictures might help. Good luck, Raz

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...eal-47832.html

[JRTrillium]

Thank you David, Roy in TO and P Raz!! I am so grateful for the detailed information.

We put a seal of caulking above the window for now to stop anything further - I am hoping that is alright? We won't be able to get to this for a while. And, we still want to take it out. If you have a better 'bandaid' remedy I'd definitely give it a go. Time is a small issue right now.

I have saved all this information for when we do get to it.

Thanks so much again,
Janice & Rick

[David Tilston]

Just don't use silicone calk.

[JRTrillium]

Why not use silicone caulk and what should we use?

[JRTrillium]

there are two types of butyl tape - one is foil butyl tape - are they the same?

[David Tilston]

Silicone will fail after about 3 years. Then it will be impossible to remove. There will be silicone residue that will prevent anything else from sticking properly.

One solution to removing silicone is to sand the area with a very fine grit, (400 or so) sand paper.

The proper butyl should stretch out to a very fine thread. The other stuff works, but may not seal as well, or last as long. But it will come off when it needs to be replaced.

[Randy J.]

I did my rear window (1976 Trillium 1300) similar to David, above. The only catch was that the original hole had been cut about 1/4 of an inch too long. The screws on the left side therefore were just catching the edge of the fibreglass, not going through it. I suspect from the rot that this had always been a weak point. I used fibreglass mesh and resin to build out the left side and also, since there was other screw-hole damage, ran a re-enforcement layer about 1/2 inch wide right around the opening. Extra work but it's solid! The rest was easy...

[Randy J.]

Oh, on the butyl V.S. silicon discussion, I am learning to love butyl! I use it anywhere it can be compressed, like when replacing a window or accessory, but also stretch it into a bead and tool it into the notch between say, the window frame and trailer body, instead of silicon. Any excess smears and rough borders clean up easily with any solvent. I'm thinking it may need to be scraped off and re-done each year or two. And it's darker than silicon. But it seals great and can be much more easily removed and replaced.

[JRTrillium]

Thanks Randy. Rick and I just went out and bought some MONO ULTRA caulk. I am going to remove the one thin strip of silicone we put on last week. We'll do that Sunday as we are kayaking tomorrow.

We looked and looked for butyl tape at Canadian Tire and could not find any. Now that I have examined the tops of our windows and all around the small door window - that grey is butyl tape the previous owner put on. So if we want to do a clean up job I am wondering if it is easy to remove and simply replace (when we find some) as you say it is a good sealant?