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04-18-2021, 09:33 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: Debra
Trailer: Casita 2019
FL
Posts: 96
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Leveling a trailer in storage
I had to store my trailer unexpectedly. Two questions.
1. The outdoor but covered storage location seems to have an unlevel dirt floor. My Casita SD is level from front to back but I was unable to get it level from side to side, with the dining nook side too low. Does anyone see a problem with that?
2. I put black water and grey water cleaners in the respective tanks and then put water in each. I left them that way in hopes of getting them cleaned out after 3 plus months of consistant use. The Casita will be in storage for probably 4 months (in AL so no chance of freezing). Any problem?
Many thanks for advice. I will not be in the area to make adjustments but hope to get a friend to help if needed.
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04-18-2021, 10:20 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,937
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how far off is the side to side level? if its just a few inches at the wheels, no biggie. if its drastically off, well, i assume your fridge is switched off in storage anyways, so again, no biggie.
I always do my side to side level with the andersen style leveling wedge. put the wedge under the downside wheel while still hitched, put a 6" leveler on the belly band either front or rear, and back onto the leveler wedge til its level side to side, then kick the chock block under said level wedge, chock the other wheel, and unhitch, and use the nose jack to level front to rear with the same leveler on the side of the belly band near the fridge ... it only has to be close, not precise.
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04-19-2021, 06:32 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,912
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No need to level in storage unless you will be running the fridge.
Make sure you don’t let the battery become discharged. For four months I might remove it and put it on a trickle charger where you are staying. Plug it in once a month or so to top off.
Double-check the LP tank valves are off. You could also cover the furnace and fridge vents to keep insects out.
Remove and store the cushions, or at least set them on edge so air can circulate. Wouldn’t hurt to put Damp-Rid or another chemical desiccant in the trailer to counter the summer humidity in AL. Check monthly and replace as needed.
Best wishes!
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04-19-2021, 11:23 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: Casita
Tennessee
Posts: 26
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I agree with others that it not necessary insure the trailer is level unless the refrigerator is turned on. The other thing that I do when putting my trailer in storage for any lengthy amount of time is to position the trailer tires on a couple of pieces of laminated flooring, etc. to prevent the tires from deteriorating because of setting on concrete. Not sure of the deteriorating problem if on dirt or gravel, but you might check it out Don't use a chemically treated piece of wood for this. Also, I would reposition the trailer occasionally to prevent the tires from developing any flat spots on the bottom side.
The other thing I do is to use a battery tender that is always on instead of occasionally plugging in a trickle charger.
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04-19-2021, 03:59 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: Debra
Trailer: Casita 2019
FL
Posts: 96
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Thanks for all the great advice. Frig is not on. Battery is off and I will not be around to give it a charge once in a while. It may be on its own for 4 months without. Ok?
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04-19-2021, 04:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Debbie in Florida
Thanks for all the great advice. Frig is not on. Battery is off and I will not be around to give it a charge once in a while. It may be on its own for 4 months without. Ok?
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4 months is long enough for a battery to significantly self discharge.
I would get a battery tender such as the Deltran Battery Tender Jr, and hook it up to the battery and leave it plugged in, this will ensure the battery stays fully charged, and will not overcharge it. if there's no power where the trailer is stored, then pull the battery and bring it home, and put it in your garage or whatever on the BT. Or, Deltran also makes Solar Tenders, even the smallest 5W model would do fine for a group 27, IF you can run a wire from outdoors to where the trailer is stored, and have a secure-enough-place with south facing exposure to mount the solar panel (they are only about 1 sq ft)
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04-21-2021, 01:32 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Compact Jr
Posts: 340
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After having a battery tender melt down in my garage, I no longer use nor recommend them. Just disconnect the battery entirely.
__________________
Jen
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Nowhere to be and all day to get there." - The Bills
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04-21-2021, 06:12 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Debbie in Florida
Thanks for all the great advice. Frig is not on. Battery is off and I will not be around to give it a charge once in a while. It may be on its own for 4 months without. Ok?
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FULLY charge the battery then disconnect the wire(s) on the neg post and a healthy battery will be fine for 4 months. However, unless the camper is stored in a locked shelter, I would be more worried about other things that might happen in the four months with no checks... leaks, animals, theft, etc... Much like my house, I would never want to leave it for many months with no one checking on it.
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04-21-2021, 06:50 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JenPB
After having a battery tender melt down in my garage, I no longer use nor recommend them. Just disconnect the battery entirely.
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I’ve used 4-stage smart chargers for years without a failure. I think this was an unusual event. Even so, it wastes a small amount of power to leave it on all the time, so I just plug mine in once a month overnight and unplug the next day. That would further reduce the risk of an adverse event.
Will it be okay for four months without a charger? Probably, but only if it’s physically disconnected. If not, it’s likely your safety detectors will draw it down.
Agree about regular inspections in storage.
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04-24-2021, 03:45 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: TD
Trailer: Casita and an ORV 22FQS
California
Posts: 18
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The consensus seems to be your trailer doesn't have to be level to store, but my experience has been different. I have a 2000 16' Casita SD and I left it sitting with the nose higher for a few weeks while I waited for some parts to arrive. I noticed gaps forming above the cabinets on the galley side above the rear top cabinets and the top cabinet closest to the door. I also noticed the ceiling in front of the closet came down a little because my head started touching the carpeted ceiling. As soon as I put the trailer level, within 2 days, everything went back to the way it should be. There was no obvious signs on the outside. It was hot out since I live in So. Calif. I won't leave my trailer unlevel anymore. This all happened on a level slap of concrete. Food for thought.
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04-28-2021, 12:57 PM
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#11
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Member
Name: Cynthia
Trailer: Casita 17LD
Montana
Posts: 41
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Big bubble leveler
Our house side storage for the Casita is not level but with everything shut off it really doesn’t bother me. I want to attach that giant level on front that can be seen on back up camera & rear view mirror. Without leveling it first, can I just measure each end equally from the bellyband and expect it to work accurately when I set up later? Thanks for any direction.
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05-01-2021, 02:02 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,937
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I put one of those giant ball levels on my E21. I leveled the trailer first, then installed it. The E21 has a front window covered by a fiberglass flipup panel, so I attached it to that panel, otherwise you'd need to drill holes in the fiberglass for the 4 mounting screws
I got this one,
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25563-A.../dp/B000EDUTOA
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05-01-2021, 03:19 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Charles
Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
Posts: 387
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While the original question was whether to level the trailer or not, there are additional considerations in storage, especially in warm weather.
Be sure and leave the fridge doors propped open so the inside will not mildew. Remove all foodsuffs from the inside to avoid damage either from heat, or attracting bugs.
Air up the tires fully.
In Alabama there are lots of insects, so if you do not already have bug screens on the fridge vents, furnace, water heater, etc. you may want to tape over these openings and deal with the tape residue when you remove it (mineral spirits will take care of that).
I am inclined to think that a full water tank with bleach added to it would be better than an empty tank, this is a tough call.
Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO PacBrake six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
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05-01-2021, 07:10 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Don
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A
California
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
I put one of those giant ball levels on my E21. I leveled the trailer first, then installed it. The E21 has a front window covered by a fiberglass flipup panel, so I attached it to that panel, otherwise you'd need to drill holes in the fiberglass for the 4 mounting screws
I got this one,
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25563-A.../dp/B000EDUTOA
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That's a nice one, John. They even provide slots! After you've measured and marked for holes twice, then drilled the holes; only then do you find that they're not level holes, so the slots allow the results of your work to appear professional!!!
__________________
Don & Teresa
Tow: 2011 Honda Pilot
Trailer:2015 ESCAPE 17A
RLTW - LRRA2015
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