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08-03-2018, 12:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Leveling blocks vrs. drive on levelers
Trying to get ready for first time camping with our to be picked up in Sept. Scamp 13. When I get to a camp site, would I be better off with stacking leveling blocks or a drive on camper leveler, such as Beech Lane system, which come with a chock block.
Also would I need for both wheels or just one side?
Since this will be a first time experience, I want this leveling bit to be easy and enjoyable.
Thanks, I really am enjoying this site. Great advise.
Jack & Jo-Ann
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08-03-2018, 01:11 PM
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#2
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member
Name: J
Isle of Wight
Posts: 536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockman
Trying to get ready for first time camping with our to be picked up in Sept. Scamp 13. When I get to a camp site, would I be better off with stacking leveling blocks or a drive on camper leveler, such as Beech Lane system, which come with a chock block.
Also would I need for both wheels or just one side?
Since this will be a first time experience, I want this leveling bit to be easy and enjoyable.
Thanks, I really am enjoying this site. Great advise.
Jack & Jo-Ann
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You will need chocks front-and-back for both wheels. So thats 4 total.
It we are level side-to-side you are done.
For leveling - you only need to level one side -(bring up the low wheel)
We use the Anderson leveler - the drive-up kind with its own wedge/chock.
Works for us.....
Jim
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08-03-2018, 01:18 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,940
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I use the anderson(*) levelers, which look much the same as those Beech Lane, they work great. you only need to raise the wheel on the low side, the other wheel you just chock in place to prevent it from rolling away.
my parking sequence...
- determine which side of trailer is lower via a bubble level
- put wedge block behind the trailer wheel on the lower side.
- carefully backup onto wedge, raising that side of trailer.
- check level, if high or low, then move forward or backward a few inches
- install chock block under wedge, kick firmly in place.
- release tow vehicle brakes in neutral, let trailer settle on its happy place
- double check left-right level
- chock other trailer wheel on both sides of tire, kick chocks in firmly
- unhook safety chains, e-brake wire, and power pigtail
- release hitch and raise with nose jack (using stack of blocks if needed)
- roll tow vehicle clear, park it.
- check front/rear level, and adjust with nose jack
- setup trailer stabilizers
(*) I bought these before the incident where the owners of Andersen defaced a monument carving their initials into the rock. I would find an alternate brand now.
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08-03-2018, 01:30 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Thanks Guys
Thanks Jim & John for your reply.
John, I like your detailed info. I will certainly make a list just like that and follow those instructions.
Thank again,
Jack & Jo-Ann
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08-03-2018, 01:42 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Shelby
Trailer: Casita SD
Tennessee
Posts: 1,091
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Thanks for the Beech Lane heads up. It's good to know there is an alternative to the Andersen product.
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08-03-2018, 02:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyM
Thanks for the Beech Lane heads up. It's good to know there is an alternative to the Andersen product.
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there are also these,
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Curved-...dp/B0751TG8MH/
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08-03-2018, 06:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 982
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08-03-2018, 07:04 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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I have started jacking the frame to level the trailer with two cheap Harbor Freight hydraulic jacks.
One to level and the second to stabilize the frame on the other side.
This stops the jiggle from the suspension as you walk in the trailer better than raising the tire.
The jacks are about $17.00.
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08-04-2018, 07:20 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockman
Trying to get ready for first time camping with our to be picked up in Sept. Scamp 13. When I get to a camp site, would I be better off with stacking leveling blocks or a drive on camper leveler, such as Beech Lane system, which come with a chock block.
Also would I need for both wheels or just one side?
Since this will be a first time experience, I want this leveling bit to be easy and enjoyable.
Thanks, I really am enjoying this site. Great advise.
Jack & Jo-Ann
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We use assorted lumber scraps to level. On occasion I have raised both wheels to obtain front to back level.
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08-04-2018, 07:34 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,926
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JD, your approach works as long as you jack on the frame near the axle. Jacking at the corners can damage the lightweight OEM frames on many molded trailers. Just mentioning that as clarification for someone new...
Unless you're on pavement, a jack might need something under it to keep from sinking. Also, many bottle-type jacks won't fit under smaller, lower trailers like my Scamp 13.
I like the lego-style blocks myself (Camco). Besides your trailer you can use them to level a picnic table, camp stove... You can place them under the tongue jack pad and stabilizers on soft surfaces. Compact, inexpensive, lightweight, and many uses.
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08-04-2018, 09:14 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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We use these https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cacmo-445...&wl13=&veh=sem
You can "Stair-step" them if you need to use more than one. 90% of our camping has only required one block (1") to level and I KNOW sometimes it will require more.
I only chock the downhill side of the wheel. I've never had a problem with my Scamp rolling uphill.
I've used an extra block to set the chock on. They DO make some blocks/chocks that will lock onto each other which would be nice. I dont have those but I've never had a problem with my setup....and it's cheap.
I like the "Anderson" that others mention but have never used one. I see alot of them in use at the campgrounds though.
You dont say in your original post, but do you have leveling bubbles on your trailer? I installed one on the tongue (I wish I had mounted a 2-way and mounted it FLAT on the tongue to get BOTH directions at one time. But they're invaluable when you start setting up and not have to worry about using a "level" every time.
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08-04-2018, 09:21 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Zac & Cathy
Trailer: Burro & 2006 21ft. BigFoot
California
Posts: 120
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I carry some old nylon cutting boards available at thrift stores plus the lego type blocks. Sometimes a site may be sloped and you can't lower the front down enough to level or sloped to the side. Be picky on your site selection if possible. Sloped sites for me seem to be when exhausted, in the dark, in the rain and wind!! Get some good flashlights and back up batteries.
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08-04-2018, 09:26 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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If you chock both sides of the wheel, the trailer can't turn on you, which I had happen, once.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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08-04-2018, 11:34 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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Paul got a large sheet of nylon "cutting board" material and cut a number of pads from it, al the same, drilled a hole in one corner and put some yellow nylon rope through to make pick-up rings. He fused the ends together with a lighter. (The board was the linings for refrigerator trucks.) We use them under the scissors jacks every time we set up, including on pavement in our driveway.
Paul had been using the four scissors jacks he got from wrecked trucks at a wrecking yard to level the trailer. But after tweaking our windows a little bit that way, he'll use the blocks more for macro levelling before using the jacks for only micro adjusting/stability. The blocks stack nicely and are totally flat on both sides. And...just in case...they're food safe.
We always use black rubber chocks (trailer came with the hard brittle yellow ones I'd heard can skid in a high wind). I love the idea of a 2-way level, mounted to the tongue, and am going looking for one for Paul right now.
BEST
Kai
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08-04-2018, 01:58 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,254
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__________________
Past owner of 1995 13' Casita, 1994 16' Casita, 2012 Parkliner, 2002 17' Bigfoot.
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08-04-2018, 03:08 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP
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that first one only works for single axles, they say you can't use two of them on a double axle, but I'm not sure why not.
that second one, how do you chock the tire in place so it doesn't roll off ?
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08-04-2018, 05:08 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
that first one only works for single axles, they say you can't use two of them on a double axle, but I'm not sure why not.
Most tandem axles are too close together.
that second one, how do you chock the tire in place so it doesn't roll off ?
The trileveler is only for leveling and still needs to be chocked on the lower end.
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Walt
__________________
Past owner of 1995 13' Casita, 1994 16' Casita, 2012 Parkliner, 2002 17' Bigfoot.
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08-04-2018, 05:49 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,940
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yeah, I'm not picturing the typical chock working real well on that stepped hard plastic surface.
this is a similar stepped ramp that has purpose-built chocks that lock into it.
https://www.amazon.com/BUNKERWALL-Le.../dp/B01N7YNOL8
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08-04-2018, 08:49 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: sharon
Trailer: Scamp
Virginia
Posts: 201
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I use the LEGO cube for leveling & stabilizers. The level I bought for the egg never seems to be where I left it so I searched for an app. Bubble level app has everything I need & since my phone is always in my pocket, I can’t lose it!
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08-05-2018, 01:26 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,940
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i found a bubble level app you can run on two bluetooth linked phones or phone+tablet... leave the tablet in the trailer on a flat surface, and you can see the level from the tug on your phone
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